Buying Advice Advice on L3400 Purchase

[machmeter62]

Just wondering - if you have a backhoe with a 7.5' dig depth and you need a 9' deep hole, why don't you just dig 1.5' deep around where the hole will be, dig the 7.5' hole (now 9' below grade) while parked in that area, then backfill the 1.5' dig after you're done? Sure, it's more work than having a 9' backhoe, but if you only have the smaller hoe it seems like it would work.

The danger is: if you are digging a nine foot hole with a step down to the hole bank, the soil can be disturbed by the outriggers, and swallow your entire tractor? The 9' boom let's you work from a safer distance from the big hole, and your curled bucket will be at a safer distance also. The boom angle won't be as steep either. Safety first! If one is just trenching; you can be right over the ditch without any danger, because the outriggers provide safety too, but a large hole is a different matter. Once again, you are working with the 7'-6" hoe with the boom in the max down position to get the max digging depth; that puts the tractor and outriggers on the "ragged edge of the big hole!"

 

[machmeter62]

Just wondering - if you have a backhoe with a 7.5' dig depth and you need a 9' deep hole, why don't you just dig 1.5' deep around where the hole will be, dig the 7.5' hole (now 9' below grade) while parked in that area, then backfill the 1.5' dig after you're done? Sure, it's more work than having a 9' backhoe, but if you only have the smaller hoe it seems like it would work.

"Z" Another factor to consider with your digging approach is septic tank location? It has been my experience that the tanks are usually fairly close to the home; your approach is possible, but is still the wrong tool for the job for a 9' hole? I considered that 7'-6" hoe in 78', but the dealer told me I wouldn't regret spending extra for the 9 footer! He was right!! Everytime I use it, I am so thankful for getting it. Long trenching is also a pleasure; since you aren't constantly moving your tractor farther from the present ditch, because of the additional reach. It is also handy in hard to get to places, and beats a hand shovel anytime. I haven't seen many here wishing for a smaller backhoe in a semi construction environment?

 

[Z-Michigan]

Thanks, mach. As may be obvious from the question, I don't have operating experience with backhoes.

 

[IslandTractor]

Mach's points are well taken but Z's proposal is still a viable one. In big construction you frequently see big excavators digging at different levels to dig really big holes. You just need to do it safely and recognize that it will be significantly more time and work than if you did it with a bigger hoe. The economics depend on your situation but if the only really big job you'll ever have is the septic system, you'd save on the purchase cost and all the weight you'll drag around for ever if you choose to go with the smaller hoe. Big isn't always better.

 

[coasterez]

Rear remotes are handy for all sorts of things. They basically make it easy to hook up any implement that requires hydraulics, eliminating long hoses routed back to the up-front hydraulic manifold. A backhoe, power top link, and log splitter can take advantage of remotes, as well as hydro-drive tillers and anything else that uses hydraulic power. I'm sure you can do a search here on this subject and find lots of good info.

A power top link gives you the ability to apply downward pressure to an implement over and above the implement's weight. A 3ph simply drops the implement, but doesn't apply any downward force. The PTL will do that for you. It will be very useful when box blading or grading. It can also be used to change the cutting angle slightly of such implements. Look up the threads on this subject for more info. For building driveways, it seems like an indispensable addition. It's certainly on my list to buy.

I've been moving some brush with my loader equipped with a digging bar. It works ok. But, I sometimes wish I had a grapple for moving it all about. Brush goes where it wants to and often gets caught on surround trees. If you have a lot of brush, a grapple will be a real time saver. Remotes (front or rear) would be useful for a grapple as well. Look at the work that users like Islandtractor has gotten done with their grapples.

I also wish I had a set of forks and a quick attach bucket system to use them on - much easier to move things, like implements, around with. Also on my wish list.

 

[rcteel5]

This is great....thanks to everyone on the advice. Going to add the Pole boom, remote hydraulic and quick attach plate for the 3 point. Going to wait on the grapple, and see how the Woods backhoe with thumb do on picking up brush.

Still pondering the hydraulic top link...already WAY over my initial budget, but this is addictive...like a huge toy

 

[Z-Michigan]

but this is addictive...like a huge toy

+1

Why do you think TBN is so popular?

 

[coasterez]

Using the backhoe thumb for moving should be fine as long as you do not have to transport further than the backhoe and swing or reach. Unless you are way more talented than I, you can't drive the tractor from the backhoe seat (not withstanding articulated tractors).

 

[bandit67]

We had our septic system redone a year and a half ago when I did a major remodel - we needed to dig up the old leach field, and replace it with a larger one for the bigger house. The septic contractor has one of those larger fullsize New Holland backhoes. He did a lot of the digging/removal with the front end loader, so he had a ramp down into the hole.

Yes, an L3400 would take longer to dig your septic system, but you can start the dig with the backhoe, and do a lot of removal with the FEL. I don't think the tank needed a 9' hole, but if it did, to get the piping laid to the leach field, you need to dig a trench that is big enough to comfortably work in. I see no reason why an L3400 with BH80X couldn't have dug our entire new septic system - it just would've taken longer. By the way, we had perc rates on the higher end of the scale (longer time to drain off) due to very high levels of clay, so our leach field was on the larger end of the scale.

 

[machmeter62]

Depth of the septic tank: needs 2.5"/10' of fall to the tank; of course the farther the tank is from the home, the deeper the hole, if the property is level. My situation required three tanks. Two main tanks near each end of the home (135' long), and a sump tank in the middle; otherwise the sewer lines would be buried under the home, and a (PITA) if they ever needed access! The main issue with a septic system is the length of fall of the lines from the home to the septic tank. It is also worth the extra mone to have the foundation high enough for reasonable access underneath the home. My first home didn't! I felt it was cheap insurance for the option with the 9' hoe for the size of the tank and depth required.