After Market Hydraulic Remotes

[J_J]

He might be talking about QD's on the curl work ports on the FEL valve, and just plug the long hoses in for the rear hyd, and use the FEL to activate the hyd.

 

[J_J]

Where is the spool valve?

The BH has it's own valve. You only need a hyd supply. You only need to cut and install QD's in the steel lines between the pump and 3pt. When the BH is removed, you jumper the two QD's with a short adapter hose.

Two hoses and two QD's at the front or rear will provide a set of remotes. Clean install and low money.

Below is what Ampa did. He ran hoses to the front for a snow blade.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

i did not see any thing about float in his thread.we do a lot of loaders for 1800$and 3pt backhoes 2500$.

You said that the $800 valve was a lot of money and even the $450 valve was a lot of money. I have 2 different models of Mahindra tractors with the OEM valves, they have float position on their valves. Just trying to gat an apples to apples price comparison. But you are right, float was not mentioned.

But then again, the OP has a tractor with a loader and no back hoe and no rear remote and wants one rear remote. How much money would you charge to furnish and install one rear remote that has the float position?

 

[Chilly807]

What he said was, all he had was the 3ph and power steering. Which means he's starting from scratch, without a loader valve to feed from.

I'm thinking the 2 hoses, a couple of fittings and a pair of QCs is pretty simplified.

I added a single set of remotes to my Kubota, and already had the loader valve to plumb into.

Assuming you need a valve for the new remote instead of a simple hydraulic loop (a la backhoe), you're going to need:

1. a) adapter plate for that particular tractor
2. b) hose from adapter plate pressure outlet to valve inlet
3. c) single spool valve
4. d) power beyond adapter for spool valve
5. e) hose from power beyond adapter outlet to 3ph inlet connection at adapter plate
6. f) hose from valve exhaust port to tank connection at adapter plate
7. g) 2 hoses from work ports to QCs
8. h) 2 QCs
9. i) fittings for attaching hoses to valve, QCs, etc
10. j) hardware to mount everything

If you're going to get all that for less than $300... I'll be wanting to know where you got it and directions to get there from my place.

It cost me just about $600 CDN to buy all the individual components, no labour costs. I did the install myself, which isn't hard once you understand what you're going to do, assuming you're mechanically inclined.

I used a good quality single spool monobloc valve from Prince Hydraulics, Parker hoses, QCs and fittings. You can get it cheaper, no question. You can pay a lot more too. I beat the prices down as low as I could get them. If you want good quality stuff, you'll pay for it.

Here is the link to my rear remote install..

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/188519-adding-rear-remote-kubota-l3400.html

If you're unsure how to go about it, or aren't mechanically inclined, I'd suggest the dealer's $800 cost is money well spent. If their kit is available and someone can talk you through it, another good option. Mine turned out well, and cost me less than any other options. No kit was available for the 3400, the dealer quoted me ~$1000 give or take $100.

Plan on a full day whichever way you go, it took me about 8 hours to finish mine, which included some head scratching sessions.

Good luck!

Sean

 

[dieselscout80]

I have a Mahindra 5525, it didn't come with rear remotes and I stupidly didn't have the dealer install a single spool when I bought it. They want about $800 to intall one. I think I can buy the kit for about $500 and try install it myself.

But I was wondering if a aftermarket kit would work or if you could piece one together. Does it have to be a Mahindra brand?

Forgive me I know nothing of the remotes and how they work, but I'm fairly machincally inclined and was hoping to get it done a little cheaper.

If you buy the Mahindra post some pics of the kit before and after the install.

 

[jinman]

Sorry I don't currently understand the flow of the standard tractor hydraulic system. Maybe if someone has a tractor hydraulics 101 diagram so I can understand the flow.

I've got a little time on my hands, so let me tell you what I found out about your tractor's hydraulics. You have two hydraulic pumps. A 4.8 gpm pump is dedicated to your power steering. If you look at your engine, you'll probably see a small hydraulic pump and a large hydraulic pump very near to each other on the front of the engine. The large hydraulic pump is your main pump and puts out 10.8 gpm. Currently, all you use that main flow for is your 3PH.
In many tractors, you will have a large reservoir of hydraulic fluid in the transmission and rear differential. This is the same fluid that is pumped by your main hydraulic pump to supply power to your 3PH. It's referred to as a common sump reservoir. Your power steering may pull fluid from this reservoir too or it may have its own small reservoir and filter normally located near the front of the tractor. Some tractors have this separate reservoir and others just use the main reservoir and share the fluid.

For your main pump, fluid from the pump goes back to your 3PH control valve. If your 3PH is at the low position, the fluid just goes through the valve and back to the reservoir. If you are not lifting the 3PH arms or an implement, there is no reason to keep the fluid under pressure and make the engine work to pump it, so the path is open. When you move your 3PH lever to lift your 3PH arms, the return path is interrupted and pressure builds in the system. The control valve routes the pressure to the lift cylinder inside the rear case and it moves to lift your arms. When the arms match where you put the lift lever, fluid to this lift cylinder is reduced and cut off so that it holds its position. The return path is again opened and fluid continues to the reservoir. When you lower the lift, the control valve just bleeds off fluid and there is no need to route pressure to the lift cylinder. Most tractors do not have downforce on the 3PH arms. Those that do would have to route pressurized fluid to the cylinder when it is lowered, but they are pretty rare.

Your Mahindra dealer has a single remote kit and a double remote kit. These would be installed inline with the fluid going to the 3PH. When you want fluid for the remote hydraulics, the fluid flow to the 3PH is cut off and routed to the remote(s). That's not a problem because the 3PH is holding itself where you put it. If you want to lift the 3PH, you will have to return your remote lever to neutral to allow flow to the 3PH. In most instances you only need to use the remote or lift the 3PH at any one time. The remotes are said to have priority because they are plumbed before the 3PH and stop its operation while they are in use.

As I said before and most others seem to agree, the Mahindra kit is how you want to go. You don't really even need to know much about hydraulics to install that kit and have it work perfectly for you. If you don't use that kit, you may end up looking like a guy who sits a radio on the floorboard of his car and then runs the wires into the dashboard for power and speakers. It might work, but it sure ain't pretty.

 

[Chilly807]

As I said before and most others seem to agree, the Mahindra kit is how you want to go. You don't really even need to know much about hydraulics to install that kit and have it work perfectly for you. If you don't use that kit, you may end up looking like a guy who sits a radio on the floorboard of his car and then runs the wires into the dashboard for power and speakers. It might work, but it sure ain't pretty.

That's a good point. I had a tough time figuring out which valve and where it would go in the space I had available, which was pretty limited. I would have rather mounted the valve to one side of the seat, but there wasn't enough room to mount the valve and have all the hoses connect to it.

A factory valve and hard piping in kit form would have been a welcome choice for me at least. Getting everything neat and tidy is a challenge.

Sean

 

[J_J]

Here is a suitably float valve for use with a hose kit.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6701-F&catname=hydraulic

 

[MtnViewRanch]

mahindra are they say china made on it. i know they are with with jinma.when i get email form jinma it s mahindra/jinma.when the big jinma boss man come to see me. he tell me that mahindra buys them.so to me there oem is that china made valves???? Ray coldwater tractor.com

No these valves are not made in China. On my bigger tractor, it and its valves are made in India. 4 position with float and detent auto kick out in the other 2 positions. On my smaller tractor the 4 position valve mates up to the transmission and most definitely is not some generic valve. Trust me, not even you are buying these valves for $63.

And yes Mahindra bought Jinma to make economy tractors, they do not sell these in the USA. They had tried for a year or so, but have pulled the plug on that venture. Good luck with your business, glad that you are able to do all of this stuff so reasonable when no one else seems to be able to. :thumbsup:

 

[jinman]

Good luck with your business, glad that you are able to do all of this stuff so reasonable when no one else seems to be able to. :thumbsup:

I can't speak for you Brian, but I'd love to see photo of a working rear remote setup with lever operated control valve that Ray50 has put together. If he can provide hardware and brackets, valves, plumbing, disconnects, and levers all ready to install for under $500, I know several people who would love to give him some additional business. If he can do this for several tractor models, there are TBNers who'd buy his kits in a heartbeat so they can have TnT. To be a valuable product, he needs to be able to supply one of his kits ready to install with installation instructions for less than $500. If he can do that, he's got a winner.:thumbsup: