Age old debate, which truck & motor

[unreconstructed]

I didn't read all the replies. Anyhow, since you mentioned the V-10 I will give you my 2 bits.
I have an 08 F350, 6 speed, V-10, I don't remember 412s or 413. I pull a JD 5325 with 512 FEL, loaded rears, on a 20 foot BigTex. My best guess is that I am close to legal tow weight.

I tow to the edge of the Texas Hill country--pretty gentle hills, but hit a lot of wind out here. My pull is 200 miles one way. The V-10 has pulled the load just fine--only once going up hill into wind gusts of 40 mph did I ever have to drop a gear. The truck gets anywhere from 9 to just under 11 mpg depending on winds loaded and somewhere from 13 to 15 empty highway. Probably average about 14 mpg. Of course, having upgraded from an
F250 with 5.4 w 6speed, this truck seems like a monster powerhouse.

The truck has done what I wanted. However, for daily towing in good size hills I don't think
the V-10 would be the ticket given a max load.

 

[RobertN]

What's not right. If your truck sags 9" without block an the 9" is bottoming out of travel the 4" blocks would put you at 5" since the shock travel is already bottomed.

Matt

I guess I'm not getting the picture. As far as I see, if it sags 9", then you're most likely on the bump stops. Either it is over loaded, or the springs are worn.

My previous truck was a '89 F250 with all the factory heavy duty stuff. It was similar to my current truck; about 6" or so of travel before you were on the bump stops. My '80 F250 was the same.

If I put 4" blocks in, I would still only want the overall travel to be the same 6" I already have. Otherwise, the springs will over-travel. When they over-travel, it wears the springs faster. See that all the time on Jeeps and Toy 4x4's with long shackles. They get more travel, but the springs really wear fast.

Either way, if it is sagging 9", it is time for a heavier duty truck.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Robert, I agree with you on the blocks don't equal squat. It just determines unloaded ride height. All I'm saying is that a truck with larger blocks will sag less since it physically can't go any lower.

Matt

 

[Diamondpilot]

What's not right. If your truck sags 9" without block an the 9" is bottoming out of travel the 4" blocks would put you at 5" since the shock travel is already bottomed.

Matt

You just don't get it. Funny all this came up. Just got a call this morning from a acquaintance I sold a boat for a year ago and put in a 5th wheel hitch in last spring. He has a 2006 GMC 4x4 with a D-Max and had a 11,000# 32' 5Th wheel camper until last week. He said it had about 1,200# pin weight. He got a new 38' 14,000# 5Th wheel at the Indianapolis Boat Sport Travel Show and picked it up Saturday. He said it has about 2,000# pin weight. He wanted to know what all trucks his hitch will fit in because he said the new camper made the truck feel spongy and very unstable. Is going to have to get a new 1Ton and wanted to know if it would fit the new body GM, Ford, or Dodge? I told him it would fit all the trucks but we would have to order a new under the bet kit for the proper application depending on the truck he gets.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

I guess I'm not getting the picture. As far as I see, if it sags 9", then you're most likely on the bump stops. Either it is over loaded, or the springs are worn.

My previous truck was a '89 F250 with all the factory heavy duty stuff. It was similar to my current truck; about 6" or so of travel before you were on the bump stops. My '80 F250 was the same.

If I put 4" blocks in, I would still only want the overall travel to be the same 6" I already have. Otherwise, the springs will over-travel. When they over-travel, it wears the springs faster. See that all the time on Jeeps and Toy 4x4's with long shackles. They get more travel, but the springs really wear fast.

Either way, if it is sagging 9", it is time for a heavier duty truck.

It would go nearly to the stops, which is about 6-7" of spring travel. I am measuring the sag at the bumper. And no, its not worn out. It did this with only 500 miles on the truck just after I bought it new. I lived with it for a year and kicked myself for getting a 3/4 ton and not a 1 ton for only $600 more. I then got a 1 ton SRW and my wife now drives the 3/4. Another factor is the trailer was a triple axle and with the truck sagging it put too much load on the front axle and wore the tires quicker than the other 4.

Chris

 

[aczlan]

Robert, I agree with you on the blocks don't equal squat. It just determines unloaded ride height. All I'm saying is that a truck with larger blocks will sag less since it physically can't go any lower.

In this you are incorrect, a truck with blocks will sag by the same amount as an identically equipped truck without blocks, however it will not APPEAR to sag as much as the starting (unloaded) height is higher.

NOTE: The following analogy assumes one truck with the same trailer or other load in all cases and all sag numbers are from my imagination and are not intended to be factual or represent any particular truck or brand of truck.

If I take a 3/4T pickup that has a trailer hitch that sits at 20" unloaded and 15" loaded (5" of sag) and put in 5" blocks under the springs, it will sit at 25" unloaded and 20" loaded. It still sags 5" but, it will not APPEAR to be sagging as much. If I were to put airbags under it or add another leaf to the spring pack (without adding blocks) it will sit at 20.5" unloaded and 18.5" loaded, it will then sag 3" but no more (with the same load).


So, blocks or longer shackles DO NOT change CAPACITY, they only change the relative height of the truck (they in fact probably reduce capacity as you have a higher COG and cant carry as much going highway speeds as you could without said accessories).
It is therefore safer to add another spring or airbags if you want to reduce sag as you are less likely to overtravel with that than if you were to put a longer shackle on the ends of the spring (as mentioned by RobertN).

Aaron Z

 

[Diamondpilot]

In this you are incorrect, a truck with blocks will sag by the same amount as an identically equipped truck without blocks, however it will not APPEAR to sag as much as the starting (unloaded) height is higher.

NOTE: The following analogy assumes one truck with the same trailer or other load in all cases and all sag numbers are from my imagination and are not intended to be factual or represent any particular truck or brand of truck.

If I take a 3/4T pickup that has a trailer hitch that sits at 20" unloaded and 15" loaded (5" of sag) and put in 5" blocks under the springs, it will sit at 25" unloaded and 20" loaded. It still sags 5" but, it will not APPEAR to be sagging as much. If I were to put airbags under it or add another leaf to the spring pack (without adding blocks) it will sit at 20.5" unloaded and 18.5" loaded, it will then sag 3" but no more (with the same load).


So, blocks or longer shackles DO NOT change CAPACITY, they only change the relative height of the truck (they in fact probably reduce capacity as you have a higher COG and cant carry as much going highway speeds as you could without said accessories).
It is therefore safer to add another spring or airbags if you want to reduce sag as you are less likely to overtravel with that than if you were to put a longer shackle on the ends of the spring (as mentioned by RobertN).

Aaron Z

Thank you Aaron. You are saying what I have been trying for 3 days. You are a Great Man!

Chris

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

In this you are incorrect, a truck with blocks will sag by the same amount as an identically equipped truck without blocks, however it will not APPEAR to sag as much as the starting (unloaded) height is higher.

NOTE: The following analogy assumes one truck with the same trailer or other load in all cases and all sag numbers are from my imagination and are not intended to be factual or represent any particular truck or brand of truck.

If I take a 3/4T pickup that has a trailer hitch that sits at 20" unloaded and 15" loaded (5" of sag) and put in 5" blocks under the springs, it will sit at 25" unloaded and 20" loaded. It still sags 5" but, it will not APPEAR to be sagging as much. If I were to put airbags under it or add another leaf to the spring pack (without adding blocks) it will sit at 20.5" unloaded and 18.5" loaded, it will then sag 3" but no more (with the same load).


So, blocks or longer shackles DO NOT change CAPACITY, they only change the relative height of the truck (they in fact probably reduce capacity as you have a higher COG and cant carry as much going highway speeds as you could without said accessories).
It is therefore safer to add another spring or airbags if you want to reduce sag as you are less likely to overtravel with that than if you were to put a longer shackle on the ends of the spring (as mentioned by RobertN).

Aaron Z

That's exactly what I said, I never said the blocks would change capacity did I? I was only refering to over all bed height loaded and unloaded. I did say springs would affect sag. My point to the guys running the far superior 1 tons was that the springs were the only real difference. I get that that is a signifigant difference so stop with the lectures. Were arguing the same point!

Matt

 

[JohnDeere4300]

Hey guys first and foremost I don't want this thread to get into a brand war I would just like some constructive replies.
Matt

Well now what do you think.

Also you will argue this until you are blue in the face and so will I but the Ford Torque Shift is a 6 speed
Chris

Thank you Aaron. You are saying what I have been trying for 3 days. You are a Great Man!

Chris

Diamondpilot,

What color is your FACE right now

Well you told me that i could get a F-350 for $600 more, and you was right, didn't buy because i don't like tan interior

Did you read my post a few pages back what i told JB about a dodge and a family discount, well i may be changing brands.

*I know how to fix the squat in a truck, but why does the dealers have the ugly interiors in Fords

 

[Builder]

Well you told me that i could get a F-350 for $600 more, and you was right, didn't buy because i don't like tan interior

Did you read my post a few pages back what i told JB about a dodge and a family discount, well i may be changing brands.

*I know how to fix the squat in a truck, but why does the dealers have the ugly interiors in Fords

Interior styling or colors do not make a truck, smae goes for exterior. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Some guys like blondes, some like redheads......

I didn't really like the looks of the exterior of my truck that much when I bought it. I bought it for reasons other than looks.

After driving it for a few weeks, I could care less about the looks. 2 years later, I don't even give it another thought.