Am I throwing money away if I by this TSC box blade

   / Am I throwing money away if I by this TSC box blade #31  
If a box blade is “bouncing” you are going too fast, the blade pitch is wrong, or both. A box blade is, IMO, a slow attachment that will do the job just fine if you are patient with your travel speed and learn to set the blade pitch with the top link so the box blade can work.

I have a 4’ King Kutter XB. A light box blade behind a small tractor (NH TC21D). I go slow and am careful with blade pitch. No extra weight added and I can run out of traction. It takes patience
 
   / Am I throwing money away if I by this TSC box blade #32  
Well, I needed one in somewhat of a hurry and bought the 6 footer and it worked fine and didn't fail either and I was pulling it behind one of my M9 Kubota's (92 pto). I was only grading some drives and I sold it to a guy who I rebuilt his FEL bucket for, for the same price I paid for it so it wasn't a bad deal. I'm pretty sure I could have destroyed it if I had used it hard. I didn't. Not a HD box blade by any stretch but they are serviceable so long as you watch what you are doing. You flog it, it will fail.
 
   / Am I throwing money away if I by this TSC box blade
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Absolutely. A generalization that people who 'have to ask' can look at so they don't buy things that their tractor literally can't pick up off the ground, etc. It's not a high quality bit of information.

I have a TSC 60" box blade. I've added weight to it, but it was working fine for my needs before that, now just cuts in a little quicker at the start of each pass.

I think you have to have a pretty serious size class mismatch going before you can snag a ripper on something and have the tractor, from a dead stop, just start tearing and bending metal instead of spinning tires. I think the main factor there is actually momentum. Kinetic energy goes up with the square of speed or something like that, basically if you go twice as fast you're carrying 4 times as much energy. So even a properly matched tractor and implement are still going to find and break the weakest link if you snag something while moving too fast. So I don't really buy the 42hp Kubota just ripping through the "35hp rated" box blade unless there was a rolling start involved.

There's no incentive for reviewers to be honest about how they broke their product, and besides...If all the buyers knew how to handle all the variables, then retailers wouldn't bother rating drag implements, with no driveline.. by HP! ;)
You reminded about another question I had and that’s speed or momentum. I have 3 ranges with my hydrostatic. I’m guessing I should run with 2nd gear and draft to get started?
 
   / Am I throwing money away if I by this TSC box blade #34  
I have had my box blade 'chatter' on really hard-packed dirt if it doesn't already have something in it weighing it down. I have some dirt out here that is pretty hard to get into with just the blade. That's what the rippers are for.. The only actual bouncing i've seen from the box blade is when it snags a rock and 'rolls' it up out of the ground and rides up over it on the way and falls back down. Doing that at a little bit of speed is 'bouncy'.

I have 3 ranges with my hydrostatic. I’m guessing I should run with 2nd gear and draft to get started?
I think a tractor that size isn't gonna need low range unless you've got the rippers down and are ripping pretty deep. I can't say for certain but yeah, my best guess is start in the mid range and see how it goes.
 
   / Am I throwing money away if I by this TSC box blade #35  
Compare here
https://www.(Temporarily blocked du...Scraper-For-Compact-Tractors-p/eta-xd-cbb.htm

$300 more.

BUy once, cry once.

I agree with the idea of buying the best you can afford. Replacing something that didn't last because it couldn't stand up to the job drives me crazy.

Sure sometimes you don't need the best. I have a 1" Harbor Frieght Hammer Drill that I've had for years. The caveat being that I don't need that drill very often.

On the other hand, I just bought a 72" Rhino Roll-Over Box Blade. It was twice the money of a good box blade and I found a 2 year old that had been sitting on the lot, new ones are almost 3 times the money.

For me it works well in my situation, and most folks don't need that type of capability or have my reasons for needing it.

I almost bought a standard box blade and was looking at Titans. The dealers around me didn't even know what what a roll-over box blade was, and most were only focused on selling their own inventory. Finally one dealer called his rep, and found the unit I ending up buying - I think that dealer was glad to finally be rid of it.

Forums are great as these are users, many of whom have made mistakes that you get to benefit from.

Take a hard look at what you'll be doing with it, how often you'll be doing it, and what position you'd be in if it suddenly breaks.
 
 
 
Top