AMD's 1968 MF 135

   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#41  
I've found that the flint grey metallic in rattle can will look kind of flaky and needs to be built up in light coats. I used it on areas where i would have had to stand on my head to paint with my paint gun.

So far only red for me but I'll definitely remember that. Next plan is to try and tackle the hood and dash and then maybe the rims..... But that could stretch past this first winter - time will tell, but now that my boy is walking I can foresee even less time allotted to the 135
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #42  
Finally got both fenders back on the tractor! Poor picture but I was excited last night... I installed the fenders 1 position higher than they'd been previously as I picked up some chains for the winter that are pretty bulky with large links that I was worried about clearance on. But for 25$ for the pair I can't complain!

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You may need to move your rear wheel out one notch to allow clearence between fender and tires for the chains since they wrap around. I had to move mine to about 60 inches center to center otherwise the chains were clipping the fenders. sure wouldn't want to mess up all that hard work. Lookin good.
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#43  
You may need to move your rear wheel out one notch to allow clearence between fender and tires for the chains since they wrap around. I had to move mine to about 60 inches center to center otherwise the chains were clipping the fenders. sure wouldn't want to mess up all that hard work. Lookin good.

Thanks for the tip - hadn't actually thought of it that way. But you're absolutely right I'd hate to do that!

Speaking of hating to mess up the work... in full daylight this morning I noticed that I did muck up the one fender a bit during re-installation. Guess it rubbed against the position control lever. There's a scratch maybe 1/16" wide by an inch long. If I clean with alcohol or varsol or something can I just touch up with spray? Or any other ideas? I'm dissappointed, but I know it's going to happen over the course of being used anyways. But want to prevent moisture getting in and the rust starting under the paint.
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #44  
Simple. Do it same way as auto touch up paint. Spray some rattle can paint in the cap. It may require several times to touch it up. But it does work. Use a Q-tip, broken end of a toothpick, tiny hobby paint brush. -kid
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Simple. Do it same way as auto touch up paint. Spray some rattle can paint in the cap. It may require several times to touch it up. But it does work. Use a Q-tip, broken end of a toothpick, tiny hobby paint brush. -kid

OK, cool I can handle that. I've never done auto touch up before but should have known - we do a similar process at work for touching up conformal coating on PCBs... Thanks Kid!
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #46  
You may need to move your rear wheel out one notch to allow clearence between fender and tires for the chains since they wrap around. I had to move mine to about 60 inches center to center otherwise the chains were clipping the fenders. sure wouldn't want to mess up all that hard work. Lookin good.

start soaking the square headed bolts that fasten the drive lugs to the rim on the power adjustment rail with PB blaster or equivilent. They can be rusted and difficult to remove. I could not get one loose and was lucky that I was able to remove the rim clamp and turn the rim past the stuck clamp and install the second drive lug on the opposite side to move the tires out then reinstall the rim clamp. I used anti sieze on all the rim clamp nuts since I had to cut them off and did not want to go through that again. I still have not got that one drive lug loose but have no reason to move it yet.
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Thanks namyessam, I'll have to check my clearance. When I was reinstalling the fenders I had a 3" extension on my ratchet so I may be alright. As I had mentioned a while back my fenders aren't from a 135 so there may be some extra / different spacing. How much space do you have now? I was hoping to keep my outside wheelbase under 72" - it's at 68" now - so that I'm not driving on snow that hasn't been blown... with the intent that I'm getting a 6' blower.
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #48  
Thanks namyessam, I'll have to check my clearance. When I was reinstalling the fenders I had a 3" extension on my ratchet so I may be alright. As I had mentioned a while back my fenders aren't from a 135 so there may be some extra / different spacing. How much space do you have now? I was hoping to keep my outside wheelbase under 72" - it's at 68" now - so that I'm not driving on snow that hasn't been blown... with the intent that I'm getting a 6' blower.

I'll measure the clearence between the tire and fender this weekend and let you know. The centerline is about 60 and 13.6 inch tire width puts it about 74 inch wheelbase.
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135 #49  
Measured the clearence between the fender bracket bolted to the axle housing and the tire and got 4 1/2 inches. Op manual says the PAVT adjust in 4 inch increments. I believe that is two inches per side. Overall wheel base was 73 inches with 13.6 - 28 tires.
 
   / AMD's 1968 MF 135
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Measured the clearence between the fender bracket bolted to the axle housing and the tire and got 4 1/2 inches. Op manual says the PAVT adjust in 4 inch increments. I believe that is two inches per side. Overall wheel base was 73 inches with 13.6 - 28 tires.

Thanks - Do you have dished fenders? I measured and have at minimum just shy of 4" where the wheel passes closest - it might be 3 and 7/8. I have the same size tire and wheel base is maybe 68.5" - so I'd assume I'm one position inside of where yours are. Hoping this will be enough...??
 
 
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