Another Gauge Wheel Build Post

[tommu56]

Runner

Look at this link http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/113211-added-training-wheels-my-box.html


You need the blade to float think what happens when your tractor tires hit a dip and front tractor tires and blade wheels take all the load that's what probably took of the broken one off .

The toggle has some give just like a rear mower does so blade can follow the ground but still cut.

tom

 

[bigdad]

I sure like your idea of the quick adjusting leveler jacks. I modded my RB with wheels and they are adjustable but it takes a couple of wrenches. I get it real close then do the fine tuning with the top link. I have real good success reversing the RB and pushing backwards with wheels. I do keep that move to a minimum because my old neck doesn't cooperate well. Ha! Great for managing piles.

 

[lhfarm]

lhfarm - in the interest of full disclosure, this is the result of several running design changes, based on failure. First, I thought it would be neat to keep the pivoting feature of the trailer jacks, however, when I did that, there was too much side play and the wheels tended to spread out more than I thought they should.

So, I decided to 86 the pivot feature and just rigidly weld the jacks to the tubing. Once I did that, I found that the torque on the tubing was bending the receivers mounted to the blade because I only had them mounted on a single angle clip. So I added another angle clip to stiffen the receiver mounting.

If I was doing it again, I'd just use regular 2" trailer hitch material for the tubing and pre-made receivers, even though it would have cost more.

Finally, I must admit, it is a mystery to me why the back blade has the pre-drilled holes in it. Not sure what Frontier intended to be bolted on there. One was square, so as to accommodate a 1/2 inch carriage bolt, and the other was round, about 5/8 inch. Anyway, they were in a handy location for mounting the angle brackets.

Here's what happened before I stiffened-up the receiver mounts:

I used 2x2x1/4 tubing and ready-made 2" hitches. My weak point was my welding - I broke a couple of welds on my first test runs. I've been working on a mounting bracket for the blade. Your design is simple enough for me to do without a lot of cutting and welding.

Thank,

 

[Runner]

RE: crossmember - I noticed the post from the gentleman who did the wheels for the box blade recently with the cross bracing and it would definitely stiffen up the strucure. I'm thinking that if I try to use these on my box blade, I'll definitely need to use some cross bracing. Connecting the cross bracing with U-bolts was a good idea too.

RE: moveable toplink connector - that sounds like a great idea, I'll have to work on that.

RE: using trailer jacks - well, of course I stole that idea from other posters on here. That's the nice thing about this site, you can read the posts and "shop" for ideas...

Incidentally, I used the famous Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw to cut all the pieces for this project. It was new when I started and the motor lasted through exactly four cuts before it started smoking and quit. Fortunately I had an old GE 1/4 horse motor sitting on the shelf (by old, I mean it has oil cups for the bearings...) so I slammed that on there and it now works like a champ. Other than the motor problem, that saw is doing the job very well.

The welding was done with a 50 year old Power Kraft tombstone stick welder (looks to have been made by Lincoln and sold by Wards) that I inherited from
my dad. It has served me well over the years.

 

[RedDirt]

I just got mine done tonight and anxious to try it out tomorrow. I really like the trailer jack idea but after buying steel for 6 projects I needed to keep cost down and I had the all-thread and bushing stock on hand.

Here's the end result. Still have to bore a couple of holes but want to try it out first; maybe there are different locations that aren't apparent now. This is set at furthest extension so I can swivel the blade 360 degrees.



Parts
I used 2x3x3/16 for the outriggers
2x2 "receiver stock" (not 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1/4 standard which has the internal seam that has to be ground down) Receiver stock is a little more money but worth it.
2x2x3/16 extension arms
1" dia all-thread with 1"ID x 1 3/8"OD bushing stock
1/4" plate wheel foot
HF 8" pneumatic wheel - I'll silicone the ball bearing pivot race like someone here suggested (for a dust cover) and hope for the best.

Here are parts for one side




One of the most difficult process was jigging up to weld the outriggers onto the RB pivot. Lots of alignments to look at.




This was a very tight welding spot (below the blade pivot plate). Can't say I got any penetration because my angle was so low but I was able to get a bead in here. Other welds are 6011 1/8" root and 7018AC 1/8" over that.




This is the hight adjuster




And the wheel detail. The bushing was welded and gusseted to the 1/4" plate then the all thread was plug welded to the plate.




Welding done w/old Lincoln AC tombstone and Lincoln Weld Pack 100 HD wire feed, rosin core.

BTW - I too have a HF bandsaw. I've cut a fair amount of steel the past year. Motor is still OK. But I do have trouble getting it to cut (down) square with the table. I normally have to place my stock on the table shimmed 1/8"+/- (side to side) to get a plumb cut. This is especially noticeable once the blade has any wear. New blades are better but I can't replace them as often as it seems to need.

 

[mjncad]

Finally, I must admit, it is a mystery to me why the back blade has the pre-drilled holes in it. Not sure what Frontier intended to be bolted on there. One was square, so as to accommodate a 1/2 inch carriage bolt, and the other was round, about 5/8 inch. Anyway, they were in a handy location for mounting the angle brackets.

I have the same 6' Frontier rear blade and the square holes on the blade ends are for attaching optional end plates using 1/2" carriage bolts. I have the end plates and they were worth the cost to help channel dirt where one wants it. I believe Frontier also offers skid shoes that can be bolted into those holes.

 

[RedDirt]

I have the same 6' Frontier rear blade and the square holes on the blade ends are for attaching optional end plates using 1/2" carriage bolts. I have the end plates and they were worth the cost to help channel dirt where one wants it. I believe Frontier also offers skid shoes that can be bolted into those holes.

Do you happen to have a photo of the rear blade side plates? It is on my list of projects to build a set for the back blade posted above. I am especially interested in how the side plates are braced. I am thinking of running a diagonal brace (angle or pipe w/flattened ends, etc) from the front edge of the side plate inward to the blade just above the cutting edge. The plates would be 1/4" thick plate and bolted onto the blade with a couple of angle iron tabs. Do your side plates have any additional reinforcing?

 

[2manyrocks]

The most simple brace is to weld an angle or tube from one side panel all the way across to the other panel. If you bolt the dirt panels to the blade, then the whole thing can be unbolted. If you want it all to come apart for storage, then weld some tabs to the panels and bolt the cross brace to the tabs.

Interesting the way you mounted your wheels. There's another post some time ago where steel thread was used, but they also cut spacers out of tubing to adjust the height.

Hope you like it.

 

[3RRL]

Ray,
I really like how you mounted your wheel frame/base like that. Have not seen others do it like that. It adds a little more weight too ... a desired result.
Very nice job man!

 

[RobJ]

In the long (short) run those wheels may cause a problem if there is much pressure on them. Do they have bearings? I've tried the HF wheels on small atv trailers. What has outlasted the 3 sets combined so far is some old goat cart wheels I found. Just a 3/4" bolt for an axle and solid bushings in the wheels. just have to grease them once and a while.

rob