Another Home Made Cab Post

[AltavistaLawn]

I've started building my cab for the 4115, after researching posts here. U guys have some nice cabs.
Here it is with the roof test fitted. and main frame bolted to the tractor.

 

[AltavistaLawn]

Another shot of the frame.

I'd like to ask a favor of those who have cabs with quick removable doors...

Could u post pics of th ehinges? I'm at the point to frmae in the doors and windows. and need ideas.
-Thanks in advance.

 

[TBDonnelly]

For easily removable cab doors use a type of 'lift-off hinge'.

Check this website.......Mcmaster-Carr.

Go to page 2820 for lift-off hinges. Typing '2820' in the search feature will get you there.

Don

 

[PILOON]

I simply drilled a 1/4" hole in 2 pieces of 5/8" X 5/8" stock (about 3/4" long) and welded short lengths of an old drill into one block.
The blocks were then welded to the door and frame in alignment, naturally.

Be sure to make one 'pin' shorter than the other otherwise hanging (aligning) the door pins will be frustration in itself.

I placed the 'pin' half on the remouvable door.

They have served well for close to 10 years.

Handle/ lock is a shaft that fits through a bushing welded to the door frame.
Used 1/2" rod. plain lever outside and another lever inside with a flat that slips over the frame.
The flat I kinda ground at an angle to cause a 'clamping while closing' action.

Oh. and I also welded all the inside action to a similar bushing that I drilled through (including the shaft) and affixed with a cotter pin for easy remouval if need be.
At the same time I allowed some slop (enough for a spring) to ensure tight snug closure.

Noted your building stage.
For my windshield I obtained a rear window from an old school bus and mounted it (complete with rubber seals) to flat galvanized 18g sheet that I attached to the frame with metal screws. Did the rear window same way but added hinges at top for remouval.

This way I can operate wipers otherwise the blades would have marked lexan or plexiglass.
Also bus windows are shatterproof! (and cheap! scrap yards sell scrap metal, glass is useless for them.)

And if you do go to a recycle yard, check out the rear 'under the seats heaters' about 6" X 6" by 4" core and plumbed for 1/2" pipe. Change the old blower motor over to a 4" computer type muffin fan and you'll have more heat than you'll ever need. (just splice into you tractor return rad line and let your engine pump do the work) I plumbed my setup using regular 1/2" water pipe along with flexible rad line wherever ther might be flexing.

So far your project is looking just great and should work out fine.

Good luck.

 

[PILOON]

Just another note,

If your roof is not yet cut out. on mine I made it wider and longer with formed 'gutters' on the sides.
This way water does not drip down inside of the doors and on the longer , very little rain actually gets to the front and rear windows in normal circumstances.
I allowed about 4" frt and aft with maybe 1 1/2" on the sides.

Also I padded the inside prior to attaching the roof with metal screws to the frame. (ie, sandwitched the padding)
This helped insulate, but best of all cut down any 'drumming' noises.

Again, looking good!

 

[AltavistaLawn]

Thanks a bunch, guys. I hadn't thought of the wiper scratching the lexan!

I have a good source of bus parts near by...They are always scrapping out old buses. I'll pay them a visit today.

 

[jdgreg]

Great job! If you need some pics of my Curtis soft-side, let me know and I'll be glad to post them. Might also think about running curved pieces down the fender, this will tie together the back and front supports for strength, and provide a sealing surface for the doors.

Greg

 

[AltavistaLawn]

Thanks again guys, I haven't had much tim eto do much more. I secured a rear glass from a bus and a heater box. The rubber wasn't usabe, so I'll either order one from JC Whitney, or just urethane it in.
I' did start the lower rails to tie the bottom together, that sounded like a good idea too. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Cord]

I used the weld-on hinges from McMaster (page 2819) for a truck body project and was very impressed with their quality.

 

[AltavistaLawn]

Thanks,

I found some hinges at Farm Supply, so I was able to go ahead and get the door frames done.