Thorndike
Bronze Member
Alta, really looking good! What are you going to use on the doors and sides for windows, more Lexan? I'm getting interested for my TC. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Another Home Made Cab Post
- Thread starter AltavistaLawn
- Start date
- Views: 7339
OP
AltavistaLawn
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2005
- Messages
- 226
Yes,
I'm going to use Lexan for the side and rear windows. I''m trying to figure out a slick way to have opening windows on the doors. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
I'm going to use Lexan for the side and rear windows. I''m trying to figure out a slick way to have opening windows on the doors. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
OP
AltavistaLawn
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2005
- Messages
- 226
PILOON
Super Star Member
On my cab sides I used a soft but relatively thick transparent material that the canvas and awning folks use for carport windows. About .040 thick ,I guess.
Real tough stuff! Resists branch pokeings and much other abuse.
Also is on many soft side tractor cabs and often used for convertible car top windows.
Very resistant and tough.
Iniatially I had them sew in a zipper for openings but later discarded to zipper idea. (but It did do the job.)
Attachement was simply by splitting on my table saw some 1/2" aluminum tubing and sandwitching/clamping the transparent siding to the frames with metal screws every 4-6" or so. Looks neet.
This has held up for over 6 yrs very well. Cleaning is simply armorall spray and wipe off!
I did away with zipper windows as I added a 12volt computer type fan placed to the upper left behind my head for circulation of air and found this was excellent.
In hot humid summer with only the door remouved I find the cab is very 'habitable'. Roof takes care of direct sunlight and fan cools me (also blows out the bugs)
Naturally air conditioning would be best..
One thing helps greatly; before attaching my roof I sandwitched a padded material between the frame and roof skin. It was a quilted padded aerospace material that is used in aircraft luggage compartements
Prime reason was to avoid dripping from condensation as well as metal 'drumming' sounds but I soon discovered that it also insulated more than I would have thought, both summer and winter.
Might add that I (after 3-5 mins of heat) never have condensation on any windows plus at below 0 I operate in 'shirt sleeves'
Probably a vinal fabric with a 1/4" foam (like packing wrap or cushion floor underlay) would do the job as well.
My 'school bus' heater (after 3 relocations) found the best home (space restrictions and airflow) to be front upper right (just under roof).
This placed it : as far from head as opossible, blew hot air donwards towards feet and can be deflected easily towards widshield for defrost with simple deflector.
Also puts it above the FEL controls which is a 'lost space' anyways.
This heater I modified using a 4 x 4" 12V computer 'muffin fan' because it draws less than 1 amp and moves probably 4-5 times more air than noisy inefficient heater blower (about 10 amps) that was installed.
Also it made the heater package MUCH more compact.
Shaved at least 4" from the 'heat box'
Hope some of these ideas help.
Good luck. (and looking good)
Keep the PICS coming
Oh, in lower skinned door pannels (like U have), I trimmed some blue foam pannel inserts to fit snugly between the frames. Glued it in with colored caulking to match. Helps keep feet warm!
Real tough stuff! Resists branch pokeings and much other abuse.
Also is on many soft side tractor cabs and often used for convertible car top windows.
Very resistant and tough.
Iniatially I had them sew in a zipper for openings but later discarded to zipper idea. (but It did do the job.)
Attachement was simply by splitting on my table saw some 1/2" aluminum tubing and sandwitching/clamping the transparent siding to the frames with metal screws every 4-6" or so. Looks neet.
This has held up for over 6 yrs very well. Cleaning is simply armorall spray and wipe off!
I did away with zipper windows as I added a 12volt computer type fan placed to the upper left behind my head for circulation of air and found this was excellent.
In hot humid summer with only the door remouved I find the cab is very 'habitable'. Roof takes care of direct sunlight and fan cools me (also blows out the bugs)
Naturally air conditioning would be best..
One thing helps greatly; before attaching my roof I sandwitched a padded material between the frame and roof skin. It was a quilted padded aerospace material that is used in aircraft luggage compartements
Prime reason was to avoid dripping from condensation as well as metal 'drumming' sounds but I soon discovered that it also insulated more than I would have thought, both summer and winter.
Might add that I (after 3-5 mins of heat) never have condensation on any windows plus at below 0 I operate in 'shirt sleeves'
Probably a vinal fabric with a 1/4" foam (like packing wrap or cushion floor underlay) would do the job as well.
My 'school bus' heater (after 3 relocations) found the best home (space restrictions and airflow) to be front upper right (just under roof).
This placed it : as far from head as opossible, blew hot air donwards towards feet and can be deflected easily towards widshield for defrost with simple deflector.
Also puts it above the FEL controls which is a 'lost space' anyways.
This heater I modified using a 4 x 4" 12V computer 'muffin fan' because it draws less than 1 amp and moves probably 4-5 times more air than noisy inefficient heater blower (about 10 amps) that was installed.
Also it made the heater package MUCH more compact.
Shaved at least 4" from the 'heat box'
Hope some of these ideas help.
Good luck. (and looking good)
Keep the PICS coming
Oh, in lower skinned door pannels (like U have), I trimmed some blue foam pannel inserts to fit snugly between the frames. Glued it in with colored caulking to match. Helps keep feet warm!
OP
AltavistaLawn
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2005
- Messages
- 226
Pillon,
Thanks for that idea on the "soft" glass. I haven't bought the lexan yet, so I can check into that.
We have some of th same ideas, I'm using computer fans also, and the heater box is in front of th steering wheel.
I already secured some industrial insulation for the doors, and roof.
Its almost ready to come off the tractor for finish welding , and sandblasting. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Thanks for that idea on the "soft" glass. I haven't bought the lexan yet, so I can check into that.
We have some of th same ideas, I'm using computer fans also, and the heater box is in front of th steering wheel.
I already secured some industrial insulation for the doors, and roof.
Its almost ready to come off the tractor for finish welding , and sandblasting. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
PILOON
Super Star Member
Re Lexan (Plexiglass)
One problem with it is that it is actually 'brittle' under certain circumstances.
Also the expansion rate is different from metal hence you would need to drill oversized holes for attachments with the holes grommetted. In other words Lexan needs to be 'floating'.
This I know from aircraft windshield installations.
I have seen quite a few framed plexiglass windows where the glass was all shattered at the mounting hole locations due to cold and shrink stress.
Perhaps urathane bonding would take care of the attachement woes if you plan on that route but that still does not prevent cracking from blows which the soft sided naterial will prevent.
Also I seem to recall that the soft sides were less costly in that the canvass folks would sell 'by the yard' while the lexan is only available in 4 x 8 sheets.
Lexan and plexiglass are virtually the same .
Don't even go near the 'utility' sheets sold at the big box stores that look like lexan as that stuff us as brittle as glass when cold and actually the shards are as leathal as glass.
There exists 2 guages of the soft 'glass', be sure to get the thicker material. While it does get stiff when cold it never gets brittle.
As to zipper windows, main reasons I abandoned the concept were twofold.
1- the material did shrink just enough to be impracticle when cold hence zipper closure was difficult.
2- openings reallly did not allow all that much air circulation plus zipper runs inhibited vision. Also that 'flap' became a pain.
In effect my cab has virtually 100% clear vision all sides except for the corner posts. (pic attached shows visibility and heater mounting as well as head liner)
One problem with it is that it is actually 'brittle' under certain circumstances.
Also the expansion rate is different from metal hence you would need to drill oversized holes for attachments with the holes grommetted. In other words Lexan needs to be 'floating'.
This I know from aircraft windshield installations.
I have seen quite a few framed plexiglass windows where the glass was all shattered at the mounting hole locations due to cold and shrink stress.
Perhaps urathane bonding would take care of the attachement woes if you plan on that route but that still does not prevent cracking from blows which the soft sided naterial will prevent.
Also I seem to recall that the soft sides were less costly in that the canvass folks would sell 'by the yard' while the lexan is only available in 4 x 8 sheets.
Lexan and plexiglass are virtually the same .
Don't even go near the 'utility' sheets sold at the big box stores that look like lexan as that stuff us as brittle as glass when cold and actually the shards are as leathal as glass.
There exists 2 guages of the soft 'glass', be sure to get the thicker material. While it does get stiff when cold it never gets brittle.
As to zipper windows, main reasons I abandoned the concept were twofold.
1- the material did shrink just enough to be impracticle when cold hence zipper closure was difficult.
2- openings reallly did not allow all that much air circulation plus zipper runs inhibited vision. Also that 'flap' became a pain.
In effect my cab has virtually 100% clear vision all sides except for the corner posts. (pic attached shows visibility and heater mounting as well as head liner)
Attachments
Deerlope
Veteran Member
Lexan & plexiglass are no where near the same product. Lexan can be drill very near its edge with no problems. Try that with plexiglass and you will have a shatter hole. Lexan can also be bent in a sheetmetal brake. Try that with plexiglass and then tell us how many pieces it broke into.
SkogenMe
Silver Member
Piloon you are teasing us with a picture like that /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif...I just got in from plowing and although I love my FOPS it doesnt do much for keeping me warm...all this talk about cabs is making me drool....any possibility of seeing more pics? We don't have the length of winter you do I am sure but it is still fun to dream about.
thanks
thanks
Don't be too afraid of Lexan. As PILOON states, there is an expansion/contraction issue but if you over size the holes a bit, i.e. For a 8-32 machine screw, drill a 7/32" dia hole. You could go larger and use flat washers also. Below is my photo gallery. I used 1/4" thick scratch resistant Plexigas for all my windows. Also you can get scratch resistant Lexan as well. As for the wipers, I have never needed one because the heater keeps it warm enough inside that everything melts and runs off. To mount the windows I drilled and tapped holes in the flanges and used 1/2"wide sticky backed foam tape between frame and window for seal and also to reduce direct vibration . Used stainless steel 8-32 machine screws. Another thing (pure for appearance) I used a utility knife to cut the masking paper for a boarder around window, removed that portion, scuffed it with emery cloth and painted it with a vinyl based spray paint on the inside. Try to leave as much masking on as possible on windows until installed. Just helps protect them that much more. My cab is about a year old now and I wash tractor just like I wash the car and do not have even a hint of scratching yet. When I painted the cab I used same paint as tractor and added hardener as well. Bushes and tree branches have managed to mar the paint but have not marked the windows. I'm a believer in scratch resistant windows. Does cost more but IMO it's worth it.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=23579
http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=23579
joes_427_vette
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2004
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- Location
- Midwest
- Tractor
- IH Cub Lo Boy, 955 John Deere , TC 55 DA New Holland, Bolens HT 20 and 1456
Regal; Great job on the cab. Looks factory. How did you follow the curved fenders so well? The black around the windows.... Is this just paint to give it a urathaned look? I also like the way it makes the rops look like a part of the structure. How many hours did it take and what size tubing ? Bet there was more planning than construction hours. Do the doors also come off for warm weather?
