Another QA plow build thread. (Need help)

   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help) #11  
Well if it works for you, I can't argue. I would think it would be easier to put a new one in, but that's me. This project finally drove me to get a cutting torch, and that helps with stuff like this a ton.

I drove the pins on mine inward slightly before driving them out. Easier to break the rust that way as access from the outside was a lot better, as you know. Then it came out with reasonable blows of the hammer with a bolt as a drift/punch in the hole.

BTW - What part of WNY are you in? I grew up in Jamestown.
 
   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help) #12  
Well I have now have a plan in my head and the cultivator chopped up and ready for cutting into the right sizes for plow mount frame. I'm waiting for a chop saw before I can proceed. I stripped the plow down to the plowshare today, the A frame came right off, but pivots on the sector were seized up tight. The pivot pins are in a blind hole, so I sawed them off in order to remove the sector. Now that I have the sector off, I can heat the pins for removal, and replace them with new ones. I'm also going to add grease zerks to the pivot pin sleeves. I want to clean up & repaint the plow and frame as well, but I'm trying to keep this project as cheap as possible, so there won't be any sandblasting done. I'm just going to wire brush it, use some Rust Reformer then maybe some enamel. So far, I have $245 into it. The only other expenses I foresee are new pivot pins, a PRINCE DRV-4HH cushion valve from Surplus Center ($80 shipped), hydraulic hoses, couplings and misc. fittings that I don't have a cost on yet.
What pressure are you going to set the cushion valve to?
 
   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help)
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I had a few hours to work today, and got the mount frame tacked together and on the QA plate, and mounted it on the tractor to verify that everything works. I'll be adding several brackets and reinforcements, tabs underneath for actually mounting the plow frame, and I need to figure out a way to attach the chain to the QA plate, then it should be ready for painting.
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   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help) #15  
you can weld a piece of steel with a groove cut in it for the chain. Adjustments in length are easy.
 
   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help)
  • Thread Starter
#16  
you can weld a piece of steel with a groove cut in it for the chain. Adjustments in length are easy.

Thanks! I'm planning on welding a piece of angle along the top bar of the QA plate for reinforcement. Then I'll weld a grooved plate to that.
 
   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help)
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Update 8/5. I finished welding up the basic frame today and added the tabs for connecting the plow. I will be adding reinforcement, braces and gussets in several locations yet before it gets cleaned and primed. I don't have the hydraulics on yet, the x-over valve, various adapters and hoses will be here tomorrow. Here are some pictures.
 

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   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help) #18  
It looks good. i like how close you have it positioned to the tractor. Did you say you were going to put ski shoes under the back too?
 
   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help)
  • Thread Starter
#19  
It looks good. i like how close you have it positioned to the tractor. Did you say you were going to put ski shoes under the back too?

I'm not sure yet. Once I have the angle cylinders mounted and the float chain properly attached, I'll have to see how close the cylinders are to the ground. I don't see any reason to have shoes in the back, except to protect the angle cylinders.
 
   / Another QA plow build thread. (Need help) #20  
The reason I put shoes in the back was the same as 4Shorts - to prevent the back edge of the frame from digging in and gouging the driveway. If that is not a concern for you, then don't bother. I don't want to mess up a driveway when I can prevent it pretty easily this way. I just welded tubes that fit the shoes I picked up into the back corner of the a-frame.
 

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