Another Synthetic Oil Question

[WilliamBos]

Interesting. Changing the oil that soon is a total waste, but hey, it is not my money.

 

[Redneck in training]

If synthetic flows down then molybedelum should help a lot.

Molybdenum molecules are shaped as lenses. Only problem is that they are magnetic and tend to stand on the edge. Once they are flattened and pressed into material they are supposed to protect they lower "dry" friction in example during engine start. Once the engine is lubricated and running the shaft "floats" in the bearings without touching them so the effect of molybdenum is insignificant.

I am originally from Europe. We used to change oil in cars (as recommended by the manufacturer) in about 10000 km or 6000 miles. It was more than 20 years ago. Since then the oils especially the stability were greatly improved.

I heard a story on radio several years ago about an experiment of a taxi company in New York. They bought several new Chevy Impalas and half of them had oil and filter changed every 3000 miles and the other half had only filter changed and oil added. When the cars had 100 000 miles they disassembled the engines and found that there wasn't difference in wear.

We should be environmentally responsible but I still change oil in my tractor as recommended. I used to have Buick Regal 1991. I stopped changing oil when the car had 200K. I changed filter in about 5000 miles interval. The engine died at 247K due to failed hydraulic lifter. Until then it used very little oil.

 

[Sully2]

Molybdenum molecules are shaped as lenses. Only problem is that they are magnetic and tend to stand on the edge. Once they are flattened and pressed into material they are supposed to protect they lower "dry" friction in example during engine start. Once the engine is lubricated and running the shaft "floats" in the bearings without touching them so the effect of molybdenum is insignificant.

I am originally from Europe. We used to change oil in cars (as recommended by the manufacturer) in about 10000 km or 6000 miles. It was more than 20 years ago. Since then the oils especially the stability were greatly improved.

I heard a story on radio several years ago about an experiment of a taxi company in New York. They bought several new Chevy Impalas and half of them had oil and filter changed every 3000 miles and the other half had only filter changed and oil added. When the cars had 100 000 miles they disassembled the engines and found that there wasn't difference in wear.

We should be environmentally responsible but I still change oil in my tractor as recommended. I used to have Buick Regal 1991. I stopped changing oil when the car had 200K. I changed filter in about 5000 miles interval. The engine died at 247K due to failed hydraulic lifter. Until then it used very little oil.

And just where does the "magnetic field" come from in an engine?? Outer space??

"Paramagnetic metals have a small and positive susceptibility to magnetic fields. These materials are slightly attracted by a magnetic field and the material does not retain the magnetic properties when the external field is removed. Paramagnetic properties are due to the presence of some unpaired electrons, and from the realignment of the electron orbits caused by the external magnetic field. Paramagnetic materials include magnesium, molybdenum, lithium, and tantalum."

Me thinks someone is smoking some strange stuff!!

 

[Redneck in training]

I don't want to argue about magnetic properties of MoS2. I admit I might be wrong. The lubricant commonly called Molybdenum is actually Molybdenum disulfide MoS2.
We used powder MoS2 from Molycote in our racing engines. The application instruction recommended to apply it under pressure such as "rolling" it in (work it in ) the material of the part to be coated. It had something to do with orientation of the crystals relative to material of the part it was applied on.

 

[ihookem]

I sprayed molybendelum disulfide in my rifle barrel and it keeps it cleen longer and it cleaned easier. (just a little off subject though)

 

[RWEST]

I sprayed molybendelum disulfide in my rifle barrel and it keeps it cleen longer and it cleaned easier. (just a little off subject though)

That used to be all the rage.. There were moly-application kits available for the handloaders and everything. Are guys still doing that?

 

[DieselPower]

I moly coated my hand loaded bullets and did a bunch of bench rest test shooting with no noticable difference in accuracy or velocity out to 600 yards. It did cut down on carbon and copper deposits on one hand but I just changed the carbon deposits for heavy moly deposits on the other. Lets just say I no longer coat my bullets. A application to the barrel doesn't cause the ever increasing deposits like coated bullets does and does seem to reduce carbon and copper deposits.

 

[RWEST]

I moly coated my hand loaded bullets and did a bunch of bench rest test shooting with no noticable difference in accuracy or velocity out to 600 yards. It did cut down on carbon and copper deposits on one hand but I just changed the carbon deposits for heavy moly deposits on the other. Lets just say I no longer coat my bullets. A application to the barrel doesn't cause the ever increasing deposits like coated bullets does and does seem to reduce carbon and copper deposits.

DP - I never noticed a difference in accuracy in some extremely accurate rifles, either. I've been away from shooting for a while now, but I remember the bullet mfrs seeming to back away from offering as many coated bullets after the initial optimism was offset by the realization that extra cleaning chores were now required.

Now that we've dragged this completely off-topic did you ever try David Tubbs' FinalFinish barrel-lapping bullet setup? I had some good luck with a couple rough barrels (a 7-08 and a 308) that smoothed up nicely after running the program.

 

[DieselPower]

DP - I never noticed a difference in accuracy in some extremely accurate rifles, either. I've been away from shooting for a while now, but I remember the bullet mfrs seeming to back away from offering as many coated bullets after the initial optimism was offset by the realization that extra cleaning chores were now required.

Now that we've dragged this completely off-topic did you ever try David Tubbs' FinalFinish barrel-lapping bullet setup? I had some good luck with a couple rough barrels (a 7-08 and a 308) that smoothed up nicely after running the program.

Yep, I have used the Final Finish system on a couple of target rifles to break them in. I will say that is one system that does work. Just inspecting the barrel before and after use with a bore scope shows a visual difference. All of my 6mm PPC rifles have been Tubbed. It's one product I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.

 

[ArthurHA]

Synthetic oil all the way, I was in the earthwork business for 30 years and always use Amsoil products, it is much cheeper in the long run, and they were never stiff in the cold winters, I also bought the best filters I could find,
being a very important part of keeping them running.
Synthetic sure beat building a fire under the bulldozer, and putting heaters
aimed at the engine.
I had a transmission temparture guage in one of my trucks, and after changing to synthetic tranny oil, it show a drop of 50 deg operating in hot weather.