Anti Seize question.

[Tractor Boy]

I have a 2007 Kubota B7800, the problem is my clutch release rod seized up in the aluminum bell housing. I would like to know what type of anti seize or other lubrication to use. I didn't realize there were quite a few different types of anti seize available. Copper, Silver, Zinc, Nickel. None specifically say steel and aluminum application. Unfortunately it is a one time lubrication, so I definitely want something that will at least last till the next clutch job. The tractor only had 160 hrs. and is garage kept.

 

[Coyote machine]

I don't know if your tractor is exposed to salt air, even though it is garaged when not in use. If so, you can follow what boaters use regarding sacrificial metals for outboard motors. Look up on Google: sacrificial metals chart and study what would work for your application, air composition.
Fluid Film might also work since it leaves a protective film behind to reduce corrosion.
I've used copper and regular anti-seize for years, but am not in a salt water environment anymore.

It's possible that your tractor was exposed to a salt environment during shipping to the states, on the slow boat from Japan....
Once corrosion starts it will continue if unchecked. Most any coating now will help, vs. nothing applied.

 

[ModMech]

All of the anti-seize products that I am aware of and certainly all those I have, are water soluble to some extent and as such, will wash out.

What I use that is inexpensive and sticks like glue is "Wedge Brake Grease", you can get 8oz jar for about $4. Once applied, it isn't going anywhere. It is NOT an effective lubricant for ball joints and other places one would normally use grease, but it works great where component WEAR OUT is not the primary goal.

 

[davesl708]

I have use the regular Anti-Seize on my prop shaft on my boat for years. It has not washed out. Make removing the aluminum prop from the steel shaft a breeze since most changes are in the water and the prop is partially submerged. Should work fine for your clutch.

 

[Soundguy]

I like nickle.. but if you are looking at steel/aluminum.. hard to beat zinc..

 

[ray66v]

Any of them will work in that application, as well as many other lubricants.

Zinc is recommended for steel in aluminum.

 

[tcartwri]

Blue or Purple Loctite.

 

[Raspy]

Tractor,

Aluminum expands when it corrodes, so your problem may be corrosion more than plain old seizing. If any of the parts associated with it are stainless steel, don't use aluminum based anti seize.

Maybe zinc based antiseize or just some kind of marine grease. Or the wedge brake grease that Mod suggested. Maybe drilling out the hole a bit will solve everything.

 

[Deere Dude]

Blue or Purple Loctite.

I prefer red.

 

[tcartwri]

I prefer red.

You need heat to remove fasteners with red. Quite a bit of heat.

 

[Walker1]

Just buy an anti seize that states it doesn't wash out. Black, silver, copper, lots of colors, pick your favorite.

 

[2ndhalf]

I have a 2007 Kubota B7800, the problem is my clutch release rod seized up in the aluminum bell housing. I would like to know what type of anti seize or other lubrication to use. I didn't realize there were quite a few different types of anti seize available. Copper, Silver, Zinc, Nickel. None specifically say steel and aluminum application. Unfortunately it is a one time lubrication, so I definitely want something that will at least last till the next clutch job. The tractor only had 160 hrs. and is garage kept.

buy a can of Chesterson Antisieze and it will last you the rest of your life. Best you can buy.

 

[90cummins]

I live in the rust belt (Northeast) repairing autos and I use plain ole grease on everything to keep (things) from seizing.
I know this works because I do this on my own vehicles that I keep until they rust away.
I like grease with Moly which is recommended for high pressure applications like bucket pins which makes it universal.
Most likely there was little or no grease applied when it was built.
I've found that if you keep air & water out corrosion cannot get started.
I use WD-40 to keep those pivots & bushings wet that cannot be greased.
Having said that any of the recommendations made here will work but anti seize is not a lubricant!
90cummins

 

[Fallon]

I live in the rust belt (Northeast) repairing autos and I use plain ole grease on everything to keep (things) from seizing.
I know this works because I do this on my own vehicles that I keep until they rust away.
I like grease with Moly which is recommended for high pressure applications like bucket pins which makes it universal.
Most likely there was little or no grease applied when it was built.
I've found that if you keep air & water out corrosion cannot get started.
I use WD-40 to keep those pivots & bushings wet that cannot be greased.
Having said that any of the recommendations made here will work but anti seize is not a lubricant!
90cummins

Neither is WD40. It stands for Water Displacement formula # 40. Spray a bit into a cup & come back in a week. It will have evaporated leaving a yellow varnish behind. Many better penetrating oils out there (i like PB blaster) & many better lubes & protectants (Fluid-Film is highly recomended on TBN). WD40 is crap for what most people use it for. Boggles my mind its so popular.

 

[k0ua]

Neither is WD40. It stands for Water Displacement formula # 40. Spray a bit into a cup & come back in a week. It will have evaporated leaving a yellow varnish behind. Many better penetrating oils out there (i like PB blaster) & many better lubes & protectants (Fluid-Film is highly recomended on TBN). WD40 is crap for what most people use it for. Boggles my mind its so popular.

I use WD40 in the following ways. I use it as a cleaner to remove grease, tar and such. I use it as a water displacement for tools that have gotten wet, in a pinch I have used it for cutting fluid. It is OK to use to "unstick" something, but as you said, it is a Pixx Poor lubricant. I am a Fluid Film guy for a quick spray lube/coating. It works as stays put as a light grease. I use lots of other things too, but WD is more cleaner than lubricant.

 

[tcartwri]

The only thing I use WD 40 for is a degreaser / cleaner.

 

[ModMech]

The only thing I use WD 40 for is a degreaser / cleaner.

It's a better starting aid than ether, well at least you won't have washed-out cylinders when you finally do get it started.

WD-40 does have some lubricating ability, but it is not something one should count on.

I make my own "spray lube" by the quart for about 1/2 the cost of a can of commercial stuff, it is hard to find sprayers that last with it tho.

 

[ModMech]

The only thing I use WD 40 for is a degreaser / cleaner.

It's a better starting aid than ether, well at least you won't have washed-out cylinders when you finally do get it started.

WD-40 does have some lubricating ability, but it is not something one should count on.

I make my own "spray lube" by the quart for about 1/2 the cost of a can of commercial stuff, it is hard to find sprayers that last with it tho.

 

[ray66v]

Using WD-40 as a lubricant, is the equivalent of using duct to "repair" something. :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

Using WD-40 as a lubricant, is the equivalent of using duct to "repair" something. :laughing:

Um... I used Duct tape to repair a small hole in my back patio's sun canopy, and it has lasted for over a year... Any WD-40 lube job would not last that long.