Any floor tile installers? Putting down a tile floor..

[dave1949]

Above a garage you could have more temperature and humidity expansion and contraction in the flooring than in a house. The Ditra will isolate the tile from that mostly longitudinal movement. I don't think it will help much with downward deflection if there is any give in your floor.

 

[ray66v]

you can get expert advise by goggling. Not only does the floor need to be stiff but also free of humps and depressions. If you read some manufactures suggestions the cement board or other tile backing boards should be laid in a cement base over the plywood to level things out, screwed down and not walked on until cured.

That is clearly the best way to do it.

However, it is rarely done. And, has to be done correctly, or it is just a waste of time.

I will say it has been easy to rip out the 2 floors I did, that were done over cement board, and only screwed down. If it is cemented down, the cost to replace the floor is going to increase significantly.

 

[Wakey]

Just curious since this is a "wood plank look tile" why did you decide on tile instead of a wood or laminate floor?

Durability I suppose. I wanted hard wood but I pick my battles. :laughing:

The laminate worries me, but it might just be me.

And thanks for the other advice everyone. I've been watching YouTube videos for a few days.

 

[MotorSeven]

Have you really looked at the new vinyl laminates? I have a thread running here in "Projects" on Allure and I think for a garage room it would be perfect. Besides you could put it all down in one day by yourself right over the subfloor.

Here is that thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/318976-basement-upgrades-allure-vinyl-flooring.html

 

[Wakey]

Thanks for the heads up! I think I have some uses for that product but in this application, I'm pretty sure I need the tile.

 

[ray66v]

Thanks for the heads up! I think I have some uses for that product but in this application, I'm pretty sure I need the tile.

I guess you did not notice. But, I mentioned that earlier.

You will be saving your self a lot of trouble, if you reconsider using the vinyl planks.

 

[Wakey]

We are at Depot looking at it right now. They have the newer Ultra version that is 2.98 a square foot but it might be worth it versus the older style

 

[Wakey]

OK we ordered the Allure Ultra Arizona rough cut and it will be here at the end of the month. Told you we were using tile

My girl has 100% control on this remodel since I handle the farm. See, I can take direction!

I figure my install time and effort has been slashed as well.

My baseboards are white, with this color floor I'm not sure if the quarter round I will have to install should be white or a similar color to the stain? I need advice on that.

I also have some plywood that is different heights at a few seams so I need to deal with that. Would it be a fools errand to take a belt sander to them or should I use a leveling concrete or similar? The people at Depot really didn't seem to know because the chemical they gave me to remove the glue from the previous tile in the kitchen and bath says not to use on plywood and the powered concrete they gave me says pretty much the same.

Here is the sample.

 

[Pixguy]

The quarter round color is a personal choice. I've seen it both ways and prefer it to match the casing and baseboard color. Let the boss decide.

 

[mjcountrybumpkin]

Just get some wood putty type compound, I like to use Rock Hard, but that is a specific product that may not be available in your area. Take the " putty" and spread it over the low side of the seams to feather out the transition with a 12" Sheetrock trowel. If necessary sand smooth.
That should give a much better transition than just sanding the edge down, and probably be a lot faster. Good luck