Any floor tile installers? Putting down a tile floor..

[ray66v]

Congratulations on making a wise choice, and saving yourself, from yourself. :thumbsup:

Drive the nails/screws deep on the high spots, and hit them with a 9" disc grinder, w/a 36 grit disc. It will only take a few minutes to do a few high spots. Put a big fan in the window, for exhausting the dust. They can be rented cheap, if you don't own one.

If you have glue, or other problems areas, you can knock down the bulk of it with a scraper, and then use modified thin set, to float them out.

You should NOT use a quarter round on the base molding, that is a sure sign of a non-professional. You should use a shoe molding, and it should be the same color as the existing molding. Unless you are in a trailer park.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

In 2012 I put down 700 sq ft of natural slate with the ditra underlayment. My sub-floor was plenty adequate according to the requirements for slate,I don't remember what it is off the top of my head. I really choose the ditra because but the slate was going to but up to 3/4" natural hickory so I didn't want the height of the slate to be too much different from the hickory. Yes, I'm very picky about little details like this. I also liked all the advantages that the ditra gives you by decoupling the sub-floor from the tile. Slate is not cheap and it is not something I want to redo. The price of the ditra is small compared to the cost of the floor and the time it took to put it down. Better to be safe than sorry later. After two years I have no cracks in the grout. I would consider the ditra because you are over a garage and will have a lot of temperature variation, not to mention the wider spans of the joists may flex more than the rest of your house. One more advantage of the ditra, it is way easier to put down than cement board.

 

[Wakey]

Shoe mold it is! I'll try the 9" grinder and see if the big shop vac can get most of the dust. I'll be sure to set the nails, the screws didn't provide any help.

I wanted to tick the box on the tile install but a faster install lets me get the pastures squared away in time for fall seeding. We are considering Allure in 2 or 3 rooms in the barn.

How important is it to remove the residual glue from the prior vinyl? It's not sticky to walk on any longer, could be dirt/sawdust has worked in..

I'm kicking myself for going through all the trouble to remove and cut the pocket doors :laughing: It was the only way to paint them properly though.

 

[ray66v]

As long as it is a smooth surface, prior glue should not be an issue.

You could check with the manufacturer for their recommendation.

 

[Pixguy]

Allure floats correct?

I have a half bath floor where vinyl was glued down just 10 years ago shows any imperfection that is below.

 

[Wakey]

I need more advice! In the picture, the right handle is directly above the seam. I have it flat



now, but on the far left of the level it is 9/16 lower.

 

[Wakey]

I fired up the laptop and found the instructions for installation. Page 4 says 1/8" in a 4' span needs to be leveled or the interlocking wont be secure.

Pixguy, I can't answer your question with full certainty but the Ultra line of Allure looked thicker than anything we looked at. Look at the link below and it talks about laying Allure over existing linoleum.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e1/e1357230-1a35-4a19-8ac6-64adb28302c3.pdf

 

[ray66v]

Looks like you have trouble.

You would have never been able to put ceramic planks in that room, the way it is.

Luck isn't going to help much here, you will need skill. Hope you are up for it.

Thin set is still an option, but would require skill.

Self leveling cement would be another option. It's expensive, and requires you to make certain you plug every possible exit point. Any small hole you miss, will result in cement migrating to the areas below. It's also not totally fool proof.

Another option would be to pull the floor up, shim, grind, or plane, the floor joists, until they are level. Then, install new tongue and grove plywood.

The last option is probably the better way to go. But it's hard to say from here.

Floors like that, are why carpet was invented.

 

[Wakey]

Well, the good news is that the heat pump was replaced this afternoon giving me a reprieve and now we have a cool environment in which to work.

The culprit is a beam from front to back on the right 3rd of the space. I've started grinding the plywood down but even if its 3/4 that hardly leaves me much, making up for a 9/16 ridge.

What a mess..

 

[Scooter78]

Look and see if you can find a supplier in your area of self leveling cement. That's going to be your best bet.