any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[MultiMow]

PARTS RESOURCE:

Mitsubishi K3D Alternator 4-pin Connector

http://www.repairconnector.com/japanese-import-alternator-repair-connector-4-female-wire-terminals/

Upon replacing my alternator, I found that years of neglect and lack of storage has turned the 4-pin female connector to dust and rust. I'm never home during business hours of the local tractor parts retailer... so I set off to the automotive side to find one...

PROBLEM: If you or your local parts store doesn't have knowledge of older (70's?) imports, you likely won't have a reference vehicle to find the part, or even a number.

A friend found the source linked above, after I shared a pic of the alternator receptacle on Facebook. I thought some of you guys could use it, considering Toro doesn't have a part number for the individual connector, and and NOS wiring harnesses will cost just shy of a kidney.

For those who aren't familiar, K3D variants were used in all Groundsmaster 300-series diesels EXCEPT the 328 with the Toro spec Kubota V1105E.

 

[MultiMow]

UPDATE:

325-D electrical system

As I said in earlier comments, my unit was in a considerable state of disrepair. Once I replaced the alternator, I found the charging system still wasn't working. A previous owner had apparently tried to bypass the safety interlock controller ("SIC" or "black box" beside the regulator) and switches.

I have no desire to repair/replace the nuisance circuit, and feared my new alternator might suffer, if I crossed the SIC leads from the regulator.

I have since stripped the panel, removing the SIC, buzzer, breaker (red box), and OEM regulator. I'm replacing the OEM regulator (6-pin connector) with an epoxy potted solid state unit for a '76 Ford F-150 (4 pole, blade connectors)... with the "active" circuit being fed by the voltage drop of the fuel pump and lights.

I chose the Ford regulator for the following reasons:

-same number and function of native poles/connections on the alternator

-rated for proper charge/supply/draw voltage

My only reservation about using it, is that voltage regulators can vary in sensitivity. I'm hoping it doesn't burn up my new (and expensive) alternator.

Thoughts/knowledge are much appreciated before I risk $150 worth of alternator.

 

[MultiMow]

Troubleshooting Tip:

325-D - fuel delivery

The other day, I noticed my unit starving for fuel... only to find that mud dobbers had built a nest in the fuel tank's vent tube.

SOLUTION:

Install NPT fitting anywhere between the air filter and intake manifold, and extend the vent line to the fitting. This not only eliminates critters, but also keeps any debris from entering the line.

Sidenote: the often accused ?myth? of a runaway engine on a hot day, is reason enough for me to plan on installing a check valve along the line. Also, a dirty air filter can cause a vacuum in the tank, so this would be the perfect place to install a vacuum gauge or filter monitor.

 

[MultiMow]

Troubleshooting Tip:

325-D - fuel shutoff switch, or "manual shutdown" switch

Have a broken manual shutdown switch, but don't want to spend the time/cash on a trip to the parts store?

SOLUTION:

The safety interlock switch from beneath the rear of the seat (beside the locking pin on the frame) will serve just as well. It's too big for the original shutdown/reset switch location... but fits the hole for the oil pressure warning light.

The switch is an easily serviceable unit, is considerably heavy duty, and will provide a simple "push to stop" operation.

SIDENOTE:

As I stated before, the switch is serviceable. If yours isn't working, try a disassembling/cleaning it. Be sure to use a non-conductive/dielectric grease for reassembly (not contact grease).

 

[MultiMow]

XFaxman:

We've discussed transmission issues before, with both of us having noted poor performance in the 325 compared to the 328... even though their transmissions are identical.

We already covered the difference in fluid spec (325 calls for 10w30 motor oil, versus the 328's spec for standard hydraulic fluid).

After reviewing the specs for each fluid, I couldn't find enough difference between the two that would justify flushing/changing fluid. Furthermore, I spoke with another 325 owner who had switched to hydraulic fluid with no increase in performance.

I think I may have found a solution.

I couldn't find a troubleshooting manual for the 325... so I downloaded one for the 328. The 328 axillary hydro circuit (steering and lift cyclinder) shows a cooler at the end of the return line. My 325 does not have any such cooler... does yours?

If your 325 also lacks a cooler, then we'd probably do well to install one from a 328.

Thoughts?

 

[MultiMow]

I have occasionally hit some sand rock with it, didn't seem to faze it.

 

[MultiMow]

I use this Toro Distributor: http://www.proturf.com/ptp/

 

[MultiMow]

These guys are great. They ship to me the same day. Good stocking distributor.

Turf Equipment and Supply Company

 

[MultiMow]

Hello... I'm new to this site but I have been reading through this thread and I'm hoping there may be some folks out there that can help. We bought a Toro Groundsmaster 325d last year to mow some of the lawns at our farm. It has been a great machine. That 72' deck was a real time saver. Long story short the differential (it is the two wheel drive model) blew up (cracked housing, gearing destroyed). I was able to find a replacement on Craigslist that should work. We have discovered that the piece just in front of the hydraulic pump (looks like it is called {67-9080} HOUSING-MOTOR) is cracked and leaking oil pretty badly. I'm hoping some of you guys can point me in the right direction as to where to search for parts and maybe able to tell me what models might have interchangeable parts for my machine as well as what this part is for sure... This is my first Groundsmaster so I am still getting to know it and so far I have loved it. I have been running Toro 8-32's for years and I love them...the first picture is pointing to the part in question...others are obvious...any help is appreciated as well as information about my machine...i think there is more info in the serial number than a bunch of numbers right?
View attachment 511762 View attachment 511763 View attachment 511764

Most used transmissions sell with the part attched.

 

[MultiMow]

Wow, sounds like the 325d was kinda crappy design....i still like it but wish I had known more about it before I paid $2000

The 4wd on these machines was only designed to keep the machine from scuffing finish grade turf. The reason they designed it that way on the 325, was for the sake of efficiency... so the 4wd didn't use power required for the blades until needed, while also allowing for automatic operation.

You may want to put your machine on jackstands and ensure the 4wd isn't seized and engaged full time.