any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[crazycarl]

The pumps come apart very straightforward, service and repair manuals are free down load for Sauer. I don't mind working on pump on work bench.
Make sure to mark cases and parts as you take apart. Getting under mower and removing wasn't that fun. It was a little heavy holding in place while putting
bolts back. Might have been easier with tranny jack or something.http://files.danfoss.com/documents/series 15 transmissions service manual/bln-9646.pdf

 

[warleg]

So there are actually two parts to what I replaced? that explains you talking about two different things, lol I kept thinking I only have one pump! And yes crawling under them is not easy, I used a little four wheeled cart with a scissor jack to hold it and move it. You have inspired me to take mine apart, will it be obvious what is wrong, or what will need to be replaced? Or is there just a rebuild kit you buy that has all the good stuff in it? Mine had been weak, but the last straw was the bolts holding it together came loose and it lost all the fluid. Of course going down a big hill, it was a fun ride, and I was able to put it back together and drive it back up the hill but it was never the same. It was so cool to put the new pump on and have the ability to raise the deck and get up the hills easier.

 

[crazycarl]

There are seal kits for the pump, that include the charge pump seals ,but they don't include the motor gasket, have to order separate, to get all the gaskets in hydrostat. Most(all) of the places that sell parts you have to call to order parts. Yes most wear would be obvious ,grooves ,scratches, in the faces.
Pistons need to be tight enough in bores to pump oil. Yours could be just GASKET OR SEALS FAILURE. from loose bolts ? Never now with out looking.If one has to replace all the pistons and cylinders ,it would cost more than most old mowers are worth. I would also change the pins, as they fail a lot.
#1 rule mark parts to reassemble ,keep all parts organized ,marked where they go, and don't mix up pump and motor parts. There are good write ups
online with pictures what to look for.

 

[warleg]

Thanks, you've given me the confidence to pull it apart and take a look at it this winter! So where you at on yours? get that deck to lift yet? It's irritating when it won't lift, but it doesn't keep you from mowing most of the time.

 

[crazycarl]

I think I'll wait till mowing season is over, to many other projects going on. If I don't find anything wrong with charge pump I might have to pull whole pump
again and even though looked good ,might have to have valve plates and barrels lapped .Should have done it first time?

 

[PaulAm]

Hi guys

I recently picked up a 4wd 325D from an ebay auction (1200 miles in 2 days to retrieve it) and I'm getting it back in order. Something caused the 4wd shaft to break at the spring pin hole on the rear axle spline shaft (considering it's clamped AND pinned, that was some serious disregard, I still can't figure out how that happened). The rear part of the shaft along with the 4wd clutch got thrown away and the remaining part of the shaft beat the hydraulic filter to heck and back. That also pulled the suction hose off the supply fitting which bled out most of the hydraulic fluid.

Anyway, I got that all sorted out and there's enough pinion shaft left that I will be able to drill a new spring pin hole without having to replace the pinion and ring gear. I found another prop shaft and clutch so I'm good to go.

Here's my question: After getting one of the rear tires repaired and replaced, the rear wheels are severely pigeon toed. I know toe in is supposed to be 0-1/8 inch and this is more like an inch or so and there's no adjustment left on the tie rod. There's some evidence that one of the knuckles wasn't put back quite right and I'm wondering if maybe somebody replaced the tie rod with a different part. Before I cut out a section of the current tie rod, I'd like to verify that I'm solving the right problem. Can someone measure the length of the tie rod (excluding the ball joints) and the outside distance on the rear tires?

thanks!

Paul

 

[Xfaxman]

I hope you bought a bi-directional clutch (PN 2995-6296), it will replace the older models forward only clutch.

What year is the 325D?

The tie rod on my 1996 is 26-3/4, measured straight line across the top to the center of the rod.

My fat 18 x 8.50 x 8 rear tires measure 46-3/8 ahead and 46-1/2 behind, using 2x6's against the tire.

Those are 16 x 6.50 x 8 tires in this picture above.

And the bigger tires below:

 

[PaulAm]

I believe I also have a 96 (30795-60460). I ended up with the one way clutch from a reelmaster, but I'll keep an eye out for the bidirectional one.

That's very interesting on the tie rod; mine is 27-1/4 straight across. I was thinking it looked like it needed a 1/2 inch or so out of the middle.

This machine came out of a county park department in NJ and I can't say I've been impressed by the mechanics that worked on it. You really shouldn't need a breaker bar to loosen the oil drain plug. At least it had oil in it.

The air cleaner was missing the bottom piece and had deteriorated badly so I just today finished fabbing a new bottom piece that's held in place by a couple of spring latches and getting that all welded up and painted. I will finally get to try starting it in a day or two when I get back out to the farm.

 

[PaulAm]

Got the air cleaner back on, bled the fuel system and it fired right up! That is an awesome machine; I cut an acre today in 15 minutes.

Found a couple of minor issues: the brakes are completely frozen up, seat rails are frozen, the ignition switch is bad (had to jumper the solenoid to crank it over) and, of course, the tie rod needs to be fixed. Steering is a little weird with that much toe in. All in all, I'm really happy with it.

The hour meter appears to still work and it's around 3400. Temp gauge works, ammeter and fuel gauge not so much. Minor fixes.

 

[MultiMow]

Paul:

You may want to try bending the rod, as opposed to shortening it. If you bent it outward (away from the rear of the unit) you could easily get 3/4in reduction and gain some clearance... this way, should you replace the tie rod ends/etc. with proper pieces later, it can be returned to stock.

Just a thought.