any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[Xfaxman]

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Question to you experts...
My power steering cylinder needs a rebuild...
I'm trying to remove the cylinder...
No problem in removing the top lock nut...
The bottom nut though just spins the entire bolt assembly...
The only solution that I could conjure up was a nut splitter on the bottom nut...
Any other ideas?

What model?

Pictures would help.

 

[Turbys_1700]

What model?

Pictures would help.

325d. The first picture has the lock nut removed. It is on the left side of the unit looking at the back of the mower.

 

[Xfaxman]

The parts list shows a zerk on the bottom of the ball joint.put a wrench on it, see if you can remove the nut.

If not, remove the zerk and use a C clamp from bottom to top of the ball joint to hold on to while removing the nut.

3rd try, put two blades in a hacksaw and cut a wide slot above the threads for a screwdriver, while removing the nut.

Let us know if you need a fourth try .

 

[Turbys_1700]

Thanks for the help. I will update with my progress.

 

[Asymair95]

Some wrenching on the 322 tonight. Really wish it was up and running because we have snow on the way and this will be my snow removal rig.



Noticed some rub marks on the cross member and oil pan from the driveshaft. Not good.



Got the rear wheels off the ground and the whole axle was able to move several inches in all planes. I loosened the kingpin nut (which was loose already) and found the frame was egged out.



The genius who designed this thing installed the king pin from front to back. It was corrected on later models, with the pin being installed from the rear. Because this one is from the front, you either have to remove the engine, or drop the rear sub frame (which was already loose on mine) to remove the king pin.



Have it dropped down just enough to remove the two bolts securing the kingpin in place and slide it out.

 

[Asymair95]

Had to remove the rear 50# weight so I could get the sub frame off.



My pin came out in three pieces. Don稚 think this had much to do with the sloppy axle though. Will weld it up and stick it back in as there is very little wear.



The bushings inside the axle are in good shape, very tight still.



The subframe kingpin hole on the front side is in good shape. The only real damage is the rear kingpin hole in the sub frame, and the kingpin threads from wobbling around in the subframe. I know it looks cracked on the bottom, but it痴 not.



Cleaned things up a bit and did some more inspections. Found there were missing shims between the axle and subframe. The thrust washer was there still, but there was an awful lot of space left for additional shims that could have been used, maybe 1/16 - 1/8? I知 thinking this allowed the axle to wiggle around causing the kingpin nut to get loose and egg out the frame hole which made things a whole lot worse.

 

[Asymair95]

Made some progress on the 322 today.



Received my 3/4” bushing in the mail from McMaster-carr to weld onto the frame.



Have an assortment of shims/washers to stick between the axle and frame.



Welded up the axle kingpin as the ears had broke off.





Welded the bushing onto the frame to give the pin some new support.

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup: Better now than when new.

 

[Asymair95]

Axle is reinstalled in the subframe. Used three new shims between the axle and frame. Also installed the 50 pound weight in the subframe.



First external weight going on.



Ran into a problem after the axle was back in. By fixing the floppy axle, I created another problem. The driveshaft is now very close to the oil pan, like 1/4” close. Not sure why this is, but I think it is damage from a forklift picking the machine up. I have an idea I will try tomorrow to fix this issue.



You can see in this shot that the driveshaft is bent. Was thinking of maybe putting a jack under it to bend it back straight. Don’t know if that’s a good idea though. Last thing I want is to damage an input oil seal or bearing. I could take it off and bring it to a driveshaft shop I guess.



The bottom of the oil filter is crushed, more evidence of a forklift being used.

 

[Xfaxman]

Was thinking of maybe putting a jack under it to bend it back straight. Don't know if that's a good idea though. Last thing I want is to damage an input oil seal or bearing.

That will work. Try to wedge supports above the U-joints, so the upward force doesn't get to the oil seal or bearing.

The 328D driveshaft was bent:

Put it in the press, supported at the ends:

Put blocks and a washer under the high spot so I didn't go too far and could see the springback:

The thin tubing bent straight very easy: