Anybody here have any experience w/ Ford SD 6.0 PSD?

[Diamondpilot]

Where do you come up with that figure?
Right now on winterized fuel, I'm getting 12-13 in stop/go. If I knew that a 6L pumped up to 500HP and pulling a 15,600lb trailer would get 5 more MPG than my truck not towing, I'd have one sitting in my driveway. The reason I don't is everyone else I know personally (including my plumber and my roofer) get ~12-14MPG with their 6L trucks running a stock 325HP. I drive their trucks, their trip computers even show an average of ~13-14 MPG.


Sounds like by the numerous stories I've read about your neighbors DMAX is that you & your neighbor have a little rivalry going on, MPG claims included. I always notice your neighbor's DMAX always seems to come up just a bit short compared to your 6-oh

Chris, you seem like a nice guy and I'd like to meet you sometime, but I really have a tough time believing is your MPG claims. I honestly hope that's what you get. I hope you won't take that personally, because like I said, I think you're an OK guy....albeit maybe a little misguided.

I would guess the killer in your trade is idling of the trucks, but that is just a guess. The sweet spot for the 6 speed Dmax is 1,600 rpm. If its sitting for 20 minutes at 800 rpm idling you have just lost 10 minutes of driving, well sort of, its not turning the tranny, wheels, air drag, ect. My trucks get started and I drive off. I have a garage and its heated so its off and going.

I am jealous of the Dmax getting better mpg. His truck unmodified gets nearly the same as mine after spending $1000 on it. I am sure if he put some money into it he could kill my truck but he is worried about his warranty and will not do anything to it.

I would love for you to come and take my truck out on the routes that I drive with it. I would put my first born up that if you drove it the way I told you to you would get the same results I do. Like I said its simply driving smart, planning your stops, not stomping on it at the green lights, using the cruise control, and not worrying about the mph but watch the tach. Its the same way we fly airplanes, we run a power setting and take what speed is given to us unless asked to do different by air traffic control.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Hey guys, thanks for the conversation about this. I also apologize to the original poster that I may have hijacked this thread but I think he was also looking at a 6.0 as well.

I work at at Fire Dept., 24 on and 48 off (obviously as my avatar shows). On my days off I use my TC24DA for side work. In the spring I till gardens, and then I'm always available to do backhoe work, etc. I try and limit it to stuff that the average homeowner needs done beyond using a shovel but not enough to justify them to rent something.....get what I mean? So, the heaviest I'm towing is what...maybe 8000lbs +or- a few. I don't pull 5 or 6 days a week by any means. I also have a boat that weighs in at 6000lbs. and of course around here its also only used during the summer aprox 20 times or so. I only bought the DRW because I was in NEED of a truck bad and the deal was good. I was left with a little Toyota when my previous wife and I split. A 3/4 ton would work just fine as most of the time I'm driving to and from work, but when the time comes to hitch up and pull, I need it.

Unfortunately due to budget concerns I'm stuck with chosing to fix some of the issues I have with the current truck and hope it'll be good for the next 3-4 years or find something else. I obsolutely refuse to by a Dodge (sorry Dodge boys) and I'm not going to justify why...it's not the point here. What I'm finding is '04 and '05's in my price range but again they are in the 100,000 mile range. I like the F250 but like "Builder" said what quacks like a duck is well....

I did have an Oasis report done on the disabled F250 today and it appears that there was a reason that the previous owner dumped it off...it looks like a rap sheet for a repeating felon.

I've mentioned my wifes Suburban a few times and it has been outstanding in terms of comfort, relability, etc., so I have been keeping my eyes open for DMAX trucks. Today I found this one (in the attached pic). It's an '05 2500 crew cab, DMAX/Allison with 111,289 miles. Asking is $17,880. I have not actually seen it yet as I'm about 1.5 hours away from it. Going to head out in the am after taking the boy to school to see it if it still there (was earlier whn I called but 2 others were looking at it). It has new tires and seems to look good in the pics. My step-dad has an '02 DMAX and I've driven/rode in it and it is very comfortable and power seems good. He used to pull a 30' travel trailer with it to dirt-track races and was very happy with it.

So, the plot thickens and the wife is getting aggravated as we find something but by the time we get there to look at it...its gone! Meanwhile the front axle is leaking, and leaking, and the tires are going away......

That truck is identical to my neighbors 2007 Classic but his is a 3500 SRW. Same color, cab, and bed config. Can not remember what the cut off was but make sure it does not have a LB7 engine in it. The LLY and later are great engines but I had LB7 and it was horrible. In and out of the shop right and left. There are many well documented problems with the LB7 engines but those problems were all addressed in the LLY and later engines during a redesign of the top end of the engine.

Chris

 

[JSUnlimited]

Chris,

Thanks for the info....

SN# 1GCHK23265F970770, if anyone can tell about this truck.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I think one of the biggest differences is what one calls town driving. I live 15 miles from anything but a gas station so I am running at 55 mph for 15 miles with only one or two stop lights. If you live in a large town like Tulsa you are obviously going to get worse MPG. Me and my neighbors who own Fords, GM's, and Cummins diesels have studied these these claims for hundreds of hours. The main theme is to obey the speed limit, and drive sensibly.

As for the negative side effects that is a problem. Most manufactures diesel engines run at about 40% of the engines potential. That's how they get longevity. You can easily double the Hp for under $1000 but its going to have harmful side effects.

Another big factor is the fuel you use. Diesel fuel is different than gas in that it does not have a rating like 87 octane, ect. It has a cetane rating but its not posted most places so you really don't know what quality of fuel you are getting. I buy all my fuel 300 gallons at a time from the Co-Op and I feel its better. I usually get it with 5% bio and add Howse Diesel Conditioner to it. I have purchased fuel on the road and seen a instant decrease in mpg a few times but most of the time I can not tell.

Chris

I don't live in a city but live near a small town and a decent size village and these are the two main places I drive. It is a case where you start up the truck and are at your destination in less then 10 minutes. I do drive the 90 out to Buffalo quite often which helps my mpg but I don't have an onboard computer so I have never checked the highway mileage. I only know when I go on drives to Buffalo or Niagara Falls it improves that tanks mpg when I refuel which is expected.

I know all about fuel ratings and have bought diesel fuel at numerous places and always use a cetane booster at the highest level when I refuel. It helps but not that much, enough to justify the cost of the booster. I generally refuel at my friends station where he turns over fuel often so it doesn't sit long. He also works for the supplier so he trucks his fuel from the refinery to his station and uses it in his own 6.0 F-350 but gets worse mileage then me because his truck is a dually and I can't recall what gears he has.

I don't need any hp boost but if you have any tips that will improve mileage in a cost efficient way then please share. I don't want to spend $1k to save a half gallon of fuel every 100 miles.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I don't need any hp boost but if you have any tips that will improve mileage in a cost efficient way then please share. I don't want to spend $1k to save a half gallon of fuel every 100 miles.

Run the speed limit, coast up to stop lights, don't accelerate hard, and run your tires at max psi. These things will not cost you a dime and you will see instant results. Living where you do I would guess the winter fuel you get will only make things worse.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Chris,

Thanks for the info....

SN# 1GCHK23265F970770, if anyone can tell about this truck.

The 8th digit says its a LLY, that is good. 2 stands for LLY and 1 stands for the dreaded LB7. If its a D then its the best of all, the LBZ.

Chris

 

[Mike Costello]

I have an 04 Ford F350 crewcab SRW with 3.73 rear end, Job 2 build. I've owned it since new and the only time its seen the dealer was for the reflash campaign Ford was doing on the 6.0 programming. Its been totally reliable for me.
As for milage, I get about 14 MPG on short hops and around town. On the road driving at about 65-70 I get about 18 MPG. The best I ever got was 19.2 running unloaded at 70 keeping up with traffic.
I also tow a 31' 5th wheel that weighs in at about 12,000LBS fully loaded. Milege can really vary there depending on terrain--Hills and grades= 10-11MPG and flat running 13-14MPG. Heavy headwinds can destroy milage pretty fast while towing the 5th wheel.
All in all, I've been very happy with this truck--looks good and rides well. Its handled everything I've thrown at it from work to play. Interesting observation: When I lived in California milage was OK. Moved to Missouri and milage went up about 2MPG. Go figure!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have an 04 Ford F350 crewcab SRW with 3.73 rear end, Job 2 build. I've owned it since new and the only time its seen the dealer was for the reflash campaign Ford was doing on the 6.0 programming. Its been totally reliable for me.
As for milage, I get about 14 MPG on short hops and around town. On the road driving at about 65-70 I get about 18 MPG. The best I ever got was 19.2 running unloaded at 70 keeping up with traffic.
I also tow a 31' 5th wheel that weighs in at about 12,000LBS fully loaded. Milege can really vary there depending on terrain--Hills and grades= 10-11MPG and flat running 13-14MPG. Heavy headwinds can destroy milage pretty fast while towing the 5th wheel.
All in all, I've been very happy with this truck--looks good and rides well. Its handled everything I've thrown at it from work to play. Interesting observation: When I lived in California milage was OK. Moved to Missouri and milage went up about 2MPG. Go figure!

Glad to hear there is another with my views of the 6.0 I am guessing the mpg gain in MO was due just to the regional blend of the fuel. If you modified the truck and make it breath a little easier you would see the same results I do.

Chris

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Run the speed limit, coast up to stop lights, don't accelerate hard, and run your tires at max psi. These things will not cost you a dime and you will see instant results. Living where you do I would guess the winter fuel you get will only make things worse.

Chris

I do all this already. There is no reason to drive the truck hard. I let the truck slow itself down most of the time also going into speed zones and to stop signs or lights. The mileage is worse now, the numbers I posted are for the spring thru fall averages. Winter drops it down a couple.

 

[Mike Costello]

Glad to hear there is another with my views of the 6.0 I am guessing the mpg gain in MO was due just to the regional blend of the fuel. If you modified the truck and make it breath a little easier you would see the same results I do.

Chris

You are probably right about the regional blend thing. California requires reformulated fuels just for them--one reason why fuel costs more there. Don't know if diesel falls into that catagory, but it wouldn't surprise me. Milage suffers too with California's special fuel regulations. Just another reason among others why I bailed from that state--and I'm a California native!