Anybody use this in their tractors

[skylarkguy]

Just heard about this product. Home » Engine Cooling Systems I'm not sure if they explicitly have a tractor product but i was wondering if anyone has used it, and how it worked out.

 

[meburdick]

I don't subscribe to things like that, period. Your engine was designed to work a certain way, under certain conditions. When you start altering the conditions, you're asking for trouble.

 

[stevem5215]

Looks like they have a heavy duty diesel engine product. So, yes, it should work fine in a diesel tractor. Looks like you have to figure a way to get all the water out of the system though. That might be a tough one as there's always some water left behind. Maybe on a new rebuild it'd be fine. Says it's a permanent antifreeze product too. Tested down to -60 . That's pretty good and would work in a climate like Alaska. Looks like there's a powersports product used by a major company too.

It looks like a good product. Time will tell. I'm always skeptical on these "lifetime" products especially liquid consumable ones.

Steve

 

[Raspy]

Their claim of increasing fuel economy by 10% is where they blew their credibility.

All the talk about how cooling systems are inadequate, causing internal boiling and detonation is a scare tactic.

Lasting a lifetime is another misleading claim.


We cannot change the operating temperature of the engine without changing to a different thermostat and other components that we cannot get or might have to design and that might cause other problems. Car radiators, for instance, have plastic end caps these days and are near their temperature limit.

The water pump and hoses will still have to be changed at some point, so the coolant will have to come out at that point.

It seems tractors are not designed with marginal cooling systems that are boiling internally, and diesels cannot detonate.

They don't talk about the cost or the requirements to clean the system to put it in.

I wish they said what was in it so we had an idea what it was.


Best to wait a bit and not be the first one to test it. I don't like the toxicity of ethylene glycol used in antifreeze now, but you could always use propylene glycol if that is the issue.

 

[CBW1999]

Skeptical of something that gets pushed by TV shows geared tot he "weekend warrior". Not knocking the shows (several I have watched) but remember that the production costs are paid for by the advertisers. The advertisers pay big money to get ads onto the shows and pay even bigger money when their product is "spotlight of the week".

Not saying that the products are good or bad- buyer beware.

 

[meburdick]

The statement that it is a Lifetime Product as long as it isn't contaminated with water is a key statement... How do you get 100% of the moisture out of the existing cooling system before adding this stuff? Are you prepared to completely tear down your motor and build it back up in a low humidity environment just so you can put this stuff in?

I agree that the fuel economy claim is an immediate red flag.

And I'll say again that changing key aspects of how your motor operates (like the operating temp) goes against what the motor was designed to do. The internals of a diesel are designed to operate way above "the boiling point" already... Why does it need to be raised? Raised by how much? What value does raising the temp bring aside from possible pre-detonation of fuel?

Let's not even begin to think about the voided warranty from all of this (changing the operating temp is akin to an engine modification)...

 

[High Compression]

You don't have to get 100% of the water out. Only 97%. Old school isn't always best. If we never made changes and or improvements, we as the human race, would not be where we are today. Otherwise we'll still be using horses, or steam engines, or flathead engines, lubricating with vegetable oils, or rancid petroleum grease. Don't be so closed minded and skeptic people! Maybe the mpg claims are not accurate, maybe they ARE if you read the fine print. But one thing is you can't go through life with you head in the sand.

 

[Mark Page]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. I'll stay with good old Prestone.

 

[NICKB304]

i have never tried it but one of the local fast kids i race moto with swears by it. says its the only coolant he has tried that does not boil over during a moto.

 

[CBW1999]

As previously stated I would think the key thing is the thermostat. It is going to activate at its preset temp so, regardless of boiling point of the liquid, this is how the coolant will be controlled. Yes, replacing the thermostat would cover this but- not within design parameters.

I don't know a whole lot about motocross, my understanding is that sometimes the thermostat is removed or non existent. So in that application I can see where it would work well.

....I will now return to my head under the sand

 

[meburdick]

You don't have to get 100% of the water out. Only 97%. Old school isn't always best. If we never made changes and or improvements, we as the human race, would not be where we are today. Otherwise we'll still be using horses, or steam engines, or flathead engines, lubricating with vegetable oils, or rancid petroleum grease. Don't be so closed minded and skeptic people! Maybe the mpg claims are not accurate, maybe they ARE if you read the fine print. But one thing is you can't go through life with you head in the sand.

Please cite your sources for not having to get 100% of the water out. Here are some excerpts from the Evans pages that fueled my statement of 100%...

"Every Evans Waterless Coolant requires the entire cooling system to be drained (radiator, engine block and heater core) and refilled 100% with one of the Evans Waterless Coolants. No need to add anything. Evans now has three different coolants to choose from depending on the application and use of your specific vehicle. Also available is a flush fluid for smaller engines without block drains."

"Evans Prep Fluid is a waterless cooling system flush designed to seek out remaining water after draining the cooling system of an engine."

"Heavy Duty Coolant is a lifetime coolant if it does not become contaminated with water"

Every word of that is directly from the Evans site and tells you that you must eliminate 100% of the water from the system and *keep* it that way.

 

[High Compression]

Please cite your sources for not having to get 100% of the water out. Here are some excerpts from the Evans pages that fueled my statement of 100%...

"Every Evans Waterless Coolant requires the entire cooling system to be drained (radiator, engine block and heater core) and refilled 100% with one of the Evans Waterless Coolants. No need to add anything. Evans now has three different coolants to choose from depending on the application and use of your specific vehicle. Also available is a flush fluid for smaller engines without block drains."



"Evans Prep Fluid is a waterless cooling system flush designed to seek out remaining water after draining the cooling system of an engine."

"Heavy Duty Coolant is a lifetime coolant if it does not become contaminated with water"

Every word of that is directly from the Evans site and tells you that you must eliminate 100% of the water from the system and *keep* it that way.

Home » Engine Cooling Systems
Watch the video with Jay Leno. They state in the video that it is not necessary to get 100% of the water out. Evans can have up to 3% water in the system.

 

[LD1]

I never heard of the stuff, so no I dont use it.

I am not one to have my head stuck in the sand and am always open to change and new invention. BUT....when bogus claims are made to try to trick or underhand the comsumer, that tells me that the rest of the claims are probabally bogus too.

Like the MPG gain. Get real. They are ONLY basing that on the fact that "their" stuff has a higher boiling point so that it "can" operate at a higher temp "if" a new thermostat is used, and that "may" result in a little better mileage. While it may be a good coolant, it is certainly no magic in a can that you just dump in and instantly get 10% better economy.

But back to the "increasing operating temperature": is that really a good idea??? Manufactures have designed (optimized) the engine to run at a certain temp. Do we really want to run 30 or 50 degrees hotter than that?

AND...even if that were better (to run hotter), that can be done with glycol coolant already. Sure, water boils at 212 AT 1 ATM. In a pressurized system of about 15-16psi like most cooling systems, and mixed with glycol, we already have a boiling point of around 265 degrees. Yet manufactures still choose to run OP around 200.

Also, if we set the coolant 30-50 degrees higher to get the "claimed" mileage, what does that do to our oil temp????

 

[rrrkkk]

This has been around for many years, it has solved many problems with cooling in extreme situations, we ran it in drag cars and later in late model dirt cars it does work. So does a surfacant which makes water wetter.

 

[glc24]

Sure Jay uses it. Half his stuff justs sits dormant for months at a time. One of the worst things for vehicles is "not moving the parts". Degradation is alot faster.
Never believed in any of those "miracle" additives,and like LD1 stated,why on earth would you want to increase your oil temp. Yeah,that's real good on the internals. Give me a break.:thumbdown:


Greg

 

[LD1]

Oil temp ONLY needs to reach boiling or slightly above to boil off condensation that collects in the engine. Cooler than that is not good and leads to sludge. Hotter than that may be better for efficency and MPG, but certainly not better for the engine and oil and everything it is supposed to lubricate. Personally, Id take a few MPG reduction at the benefit of longevity any day of the week.

 

[cqaigy2]

AND...even if that were better (to run hotter), that can be done with glycol coolant already. Sure, water boils at 212 AT 1 ATM. In a pressurized system of about 15-16psi like most cooling systems, and mixed with glycol, we already have a boiling point of around 265 degrees. Yet manufactures still choose to run OP around 200.

my statement has nothing to do with the product being discussed, but one of the reasons to keep the glycol cooler is that heat breaks it down and glycol become acidic.

 

[RickB]

You don't have to get 100% of the water out. Only 97%. Old school isn't always best. If we never made changes and or improvements, we as the human race, would not be where we are today. Otherwise we'll still be using horses, or steam engines, or flathead engines, lubricating with vegetable oils, or rancid petroleum grease. Don't be so closed minded and skeptic people! Maybe the mpg claims are not accurate, maybe they ARE if you read the fine print. But one thing is you can't go through life with you head in the sand.

Then buy in and report back.

 

[xtn]

Wait... Their claim is that running hotter increases mileage because your fan can run less? Uh... Without other modifications the fan is going to come on at whatever temp it's set to come on at anyway. And that's assuming you have a temperature controlled electric fan anyway.

 

[meburdick]

Home » Engine Cooling Systems
Watch the video with Jay Leno. They state in the video that it is not necessary to get 100% of the water out. Evans can have up to 3% water in the system.

Water in the system will be considered "contamination", and the so-called Lifetime applicability goes out the window. They tell you how it's good forever, and that getting rid of the water eliminates corrosion, etc... But, then they say "well, you don't HAVE to get all of the water out" (because you can't).