Anyone else have trouble with the brake lock?

[ROUSTABOUT]

On two Kubota I use, I just keep a 4 ft 2x4 handy to beat the brake lock loose. Push on pedal and beat the knob a few times. A real pain.

 

[Bill Guenthner]

I quit using the brake lock on my first tractor. I've never used it on my second tractor - Kubota M6040. Just too darn easy to forget and drive off with the brake still on.

This!

 

[LouNY]

My god I've used brake locks on at least 30 to 40 different tractors over the years.
Some are easier to set then others and some are more secure then others.
Many the time I have shoved a stone or stick up under the release on the older Farmalls.
And every tractor with a band type parking can and still does have that capability to over power them.
My Branson with the Power shuttle will not engage the drives with the parking brake set, it just beeps and flashes a light.
Many of the larger tractors have a park position in the transmission, but not all.
And at times I've actually shut the tractor down and shoved it in first or reverse and used the engine to hold it in place.

 

[MoPops]

Mine is working ok. Not perfect, or as well as it did when it was new, but it works. For the last year, it seems like 90% of my seat time on the tractor is dragging or pushing downed trees out of the way. We had a huge wind storm come through and I lost 100+ big trees. I’m on and off the tractor so many times, I had to have it working. Plus there’s not a lot of level ground around our place.

 

[FOP]

Kubota users may not realize that the BOBCAT/kIOTI have a safety interlock that will kill the engine if the HST is in gear or PTO engaged AND the driver leaves the seat. My neighbor's Kubota does not have this interlock on the seat.

 

[John in BC]

What’s the secret to adjusting the brakes, so the parking lock (or whatever it’s called) work? Wouldn’t stay on at all, tried some adjustments and now it will hold, but it’s really sensitive. Plus I’m pushing down pretty hard. Only have 220 hrs on it, I doubt It’s worn out. Lots of hills here. I need that parking brake, plus starting the engine again and again, can’t be that good for it.

Same known problem with 2 local machines. Solution that came from the dealer was simple - just take a file to the notch making it a little deeper and it does work fine for 8 years. 2 minute fix!

 

[John in BC]

Same known problem with 2 local machines. Solution that came from the dealer was simple - just take a file to the notch making it a little deeper and it does work fine for 8 years. 2 minute fix!

 

[beowulf]

I posted about this, or similar issue, a while back. My issue was that the brake lock on my L3410 would not hold on a slope. I will update my experience and efforts on that thread now. I have not solved it.

Need a Primer on Tractor brake lock

I have a Kubota L3410. We live on 90 acres in the foothills of Central California. The 'hills' part is what presents the issue. Very frequently, including today and yesterday, I am in the hills with the tractor and need at times to stop and get off. Today it was to use a chainsaw on some trees...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[John in BC]

I posted about this, or similar issue, a while back. My issue was that the brake lock on my L3410 would not hold on a slope. I will update my experience and efforts on that thread now. I have not solved it.

Need a Primer on Tractor brake lock

I have a Kubota L3410. We live on 90 acres in the foothills of Central California. The 'hills' part is what presents the issue. Very frequently, including today and yesterday, I am in the hills with the tractor and need at times to stop and get off. Today it was to use a chainsaw on some trees...

www.tractorbynet.com

I HAVE posted previously about how the dealer did a minor fileing job on a notch for a fix. HOWEVER - I have just discovered possibly why this happens.
You will see posts about Bobcat ct225 and kioti having similar problems with parking brakes. The complaints vary from uneven breaking to pedals not returning and the solution is the same. What is happening is rust forming in the hole or on the shaft controlling the brake(s) as it enters the machine housing. If only one side gets rusty it will still affect the brake return because the pedals are coupled. Unouple them, then you will see which side needs attention, unless of course it is both. On the ct225 it is the left brake mechanism which engages with the notches of the parking brake. So if the left pedal fails to go down far enough for the same reason ( rust on the shaft entry) the parking notches will not be able to engage the pedal mechanism. That is why the problem comes on slowly and you push harder and harder to get the pedal in position. Adjusting the brake clearance per the manual is not the solution as that will just unbalance the brakes and wear one over the other.
The solution is to uncouple the pedals, spray penetrating oil above the shaft entry so that it runs down. You will likely use a lot of force to get it moving ever so slightly, back and forth, millimeter by millimeter, adding more lube, until it is free and returns with normal spring pressure.
Also note that you might also have a no start problem if the left pedal cannot get down enough to disengage the brake safety switch.
While you are looking in the parking brake area there is a small microswitch. I believe (I might be wrong) whose only function is to close and turn on the dash red parking brake light. In my case it was maladjusted and smashed in the microswitch in the on position. I just ignored it and the bulb finally burnt out.

 

[MoPops]

Thanks John. I’ll investigate the rust issue. Mine have been working fine for a while now. Knock on wood.

Jeff