Anyone have a 3320 or3520

[07 LMM LTZ]

I am looking to buy a new 3320 or 3520 cab tractor w/fel and a auto connect deck mmm. I wanted to see what everyone thinks of these tractors and about what they go for in price.

 

[Cocre]

I have a 2006 3320, no cab, no mmm. Does have a 300x fel with a HD 1550 bucket and a 447 backhoe. Bought it used three months ago with 188 hours on it for ~$21,000. It has 287 hours on it now. I am very pleased with the machines and would do it all over again.

Check the Tractorhouse.com for used (and perhaps new) prices. That is where I found mine.

 

[WH401]

I also bought a 2006 3320 w/ the PowrReverser trans about 4 months ago. It was classified as "used" but only had 10hrs on it and already had the 300cx loader attached. In my book that's practically a brand new tractor and the asking price was only around 16k. To me that was a steal being as the "new" msrp on it is around 22k. I added the follow thing's in my sig to it and go it all for around 22k.

So far I have been real happy with it and have put about 20 hrs on it since I bought it. Mainly it was purchased to replace a 72' IH Cub that I was using to cut about 7 acres of grass with. For the last 8 - 9 years that had been my main mowing machine and it got the job done, but it took around 6 - 8 hrs to cut the whole place. It had a 5' Wood's belly mower, which isn't that bad of a cut size, but in the last 3 year's it had really started to show it's age and I wanted something more modern to mow with.

Now it takes me 4 - 5 hr's total with the 3320, whether I trim or not, to cut the whole place. It handles the 6' Wood's mower with ease and has plenty of power, something I was always short of before. The PRT took a few minutes to get used to in not having to use the clutch all the time. I love being able to just flip a lever to change direction, it's great.

I have done some loader work here and there, but not enough to give a real good assessment of it's capabilities. So far I like it, but only time will tell. It should get a workout soon as I need to get a couple dump truck loads of CR-6 for my 1/4 mile drive way. It hasn't had any in about 4 year's and the numerous heavy rains have washed the large hill out and in general it's heavily showing it's wear.

BTW, when you order/purchase your tractor, go for the 300 cx loader, that way you get the highest capabilities available. Good luck with your purchase.

Here's a few pics for you.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r208/HottDude65/2006 John Deere 3320/JD33201Resize.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r208/HottDude65/2006 John Deere 3320/JD332012Resize.jpg

 

[sunnyside360]

I am looking to buy a new 3320 or 3520 cab tractor w/fel and a auto connect deck mmm. I wanted to see what everyone thinks of these tractors and about what they go for in price.

I can provide testimonial for a JD 3720 Cab tractor purchased new in spring of 2007. It now has little over 200 hrs on the meter -- used primarily for mowing 6 acres of lawn with 72" 7-Iron mmm, blowing snow off 3000 ft driveway with 59 Snowblower, and some bush hog work with 60" Bush Hog.

No major problems thus far. Did have issue with the AC and heat system due to broken seal at rear of roof enclosure which allowed outside air to bypass the heat/AC unit. I suspect the seal was damaged at the dealer when they removed the roof to install the radio and speakers but it was fixed under warranty.

Difficult for me to talk price because I traded a JD X485 with 62" mmm and front 47 snow blower. Also, my 3720 is loaded with about every option available except for a couple items. Best advice is to shop around for competing prices. Shopping around saved me over $2000. I'd do it all over again. Good luck.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I have a 3520 Cab/300CX and I absouletly LOVE it. I'd highly reccomend it. I wouldnt trade it for any other tractor....ESPECIALLY when you factor in the cab. No other company has a cab even in the same league as the Deere cab.
I dont have the MMM, I treat my 3520 as my dirt work/utility machine and use my F935 to cut the grass.
As for pricing, I really cant comment much as the stars & moons aligned perfectly for me and I pretty much legally stole it off the lot.

 

[dirtworksequip]

The 3520/cab tractors are a good machine. The only fault I found was that the rear wheel stance if you have R4 tires and wheels needs to be at least 8 inches wider for work on side slopes. There is no stability problem with the R1 tires and wheels. I love the cab.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[John Deere 3520]

Well to start things i like to say hi to everyone Im new.. My dad just bought a 3520 with cab,fel,mmm,snowblower and i love it.. I just used it today to blow some snow/ice off the drive works alot better then our old walk behind one havent really used the loader yet,and as for the mower.. WOW its a mowing machine you have to be a little careful were i mow in the back of the house its a little step but its goes across it fine.. you wont be disapointed with it... Thanks for having me.

 

[John_in_TN]

I have an '06, 3520 open station, 300CX loader, E-Hydro w/cruise and the larger R4s. Also has a single rear remote and mid-PTO. I have too many low-hanging tree limbs to consider a cab, but they sure look great.

I traded a 4200 w/72" mmm for the used 3520 in early '07 with a little less than 80 hours on the 3520. The dealer was asking $19,500 for it.

It now has about 240 hours. No problems so far and I am really happy with it. Don't know how I got along without a loader! I use it for everything, nothing really major but hauling everything around the yard: dirt, mulch, compost, gravel, tools, trash, etc. Have used the 12" post hole digger to dig several dozen holes. Use a 5' tiller and a sub-soiler for my two small gardens and the neighbors two larger gardens plus random landscaping projects. Also have an old 5' JD brush hog and a Woods PRD8400 (7') finish mower. I have almost 3 acres of yard and help my neighbor a lot with his 14 acres of yard, pasture and small wooded area (he has a similar sized New Holland with just a mower).

Good luck on your search!

 

[Millalien]

I have a 3320 eHydro with 300cx loader, 448 BH, and grapple bucket, bought new last year and now have 127 hours on it. Loaded R4's, open station.

I wanted a gear drive but there wasn't one available within a workable time frame and the dealer gave me a PR price for a immediately available eHydro unit and I took the bait. Glad I did. I fully appreciate gears, but for my use the hydro has worked out fine and I now prefer it.

As for the rest of the machine, I chose the Deere because it seemed to be the best overall deal in the 30 HP class. I liked the ergonomics and construction quality and all other things being equal I wanted to go green just for old times sake.

I did not go for the 3520 because I had (and have) nothing going on that called for the addt'l HP, particularly at the PTO. If I needed to drive some big chipper or something that the turbo might make a difference. Most of my work involves pushing, pulling or lifting and the 3520 wouldn't have made much difference to me. Not one minute has passed when I've since wished for something bigger. I use my 3320 for loader work, trenching, stump pulling, brush clearing, snow plowing, road maintenance and carrying hand tools. Occaionally, post holes, but not much PTO work at all and no mowing or disking. We have 5 wooded acres we're building out and I also like to help out neighbors with pools, plowing and trees.

Aside from power, the physical size has been perfect. Not too big, not to small. I've done some moderate land forming and clearing faster than a smaller tractor and slower than a bigger one, but haven't been turned back yet by either having something too big to get into a nook I want to get into or too small to get something finished within my time constraint. I've had a Deere 670, Kubota B- and L-series, a couple of skidsteers, and Case 470 and the 3320 has been the perfect fit for me among all those. I've had a few sphincter tightening experiences on hilly terrain so I bought the tilt meter and found that that data point helps my safety assessment. There's more than a few threads here on 3X20 tippiness.

Mechanically problem free except recently wore out a friction washer in the rock shaft control level mechanism - it's a 99 cent part and a several hour problem and hard to say whether it should have failed or not.

Design wise, this is the first tractor I've had that doesn't appear to have an outer time limit comfort-wise. I think the combination of the springy seat, tilt wheel, power steering, dual-pedal hydro, and loader control at my hip means I can run the machine for hours. One bummer about the hydro is that the constant fast idle can be nerve wracking, but I find that I'm usually over-throttling anyway and most of time can relax the throttle and noise-level and get the job done just fine.

The loader and backhoe spool valves are a little dissappointing from a mixing standpoint, but not a big deal. I can't combines motions as easily as I've been able to with other equipment, but my technique has been getting better. Also a few threads on the mixing issue here as well.

Finally, the support for someone like me - mechanically inept and really just a weekend warrior from tractoring standpoint - is super-excellent. This forum has been a constant lifeline and my local dealer is great. I chatted their mechanic up for a while about the rock shaft lever thing, it cost me nothing and he was glad to help. I think a lot of 3X20 owners are in my category - maybe not inept, but are landowners primarily using their machines for for their own account and not out for hire. There are very few questions that haven't been asked and answered in this forum.

 

[jcmseven]

I have never owned either of these--but I have had a 4310 (the predecessor to the 3320) and a 3720 (actually two of them). I really like the JD mid frame machines. They really give you about 90% the performance of the 4000 series tractors for less dollars (on average). They are great machines, and in my opinion the class of the compacts in this size. My opinion having owned a 3720 is that it is a great machine, but with the 3320 offering 8 pound/feet more torque than my 4310 did and only about that much less than the 3520, it would be difficult for me to justify the price of the turbo in that tractor. I loved my 3720, but if I were to go back to a mid frame again I would get a 3320. My only complaint about them is that they are a bit tippy in soft ground and on hills, not just side to side but also front to back (they will bob with a heavy load in the bucket). A cab, which by the way is really nice, will add to this as it substantially raises the COG for the tractor. Whichever you buy, run as much weight as you can in the tires or on the wheels or both to lower the COG. My tractor became pretty stable once I had loaded the rear tires and added the wheel weights, but it certainly was not before.

John M

 

[John Deere 3520]

I have never owned either of these--but I have had a 4310 (the predecessor to the 3320) and a 3720 (actually two of them). I really like the JD mid frame machines. They really give you about 90% the performance of the 4000 series tractors for less dollars (on average). They are great machines, and in my opinion the class of the compacts in this size. My opinion having owned a 3720 is that it is a great machine, but with the 3320 offering 8 pound/feet more torque than my 4310 did and only about that much less than the 3520, it would be difficult for me to justify the price of the turbo in that tractor. I loved my 3720, but if I were to go back to a mid frame again I would get a 3320. My only complaint about them is that they are a bit tippy in soft ground and on hills, not just side to side but also front to back (they will bob with a heavy load in the bucket). A cab, which by the way is really nice, will add to this as it substantially raises the COG for the tractor. Whichever you buy, run as much weight as you can in the tires or on the wheels or both to lower the COG. My tractor became pretty stable once I had loaded the rear tires and added the wheel weights, but it certainly was not before.

John M

Agreed we have the tires loaded on ours so far but dad ordered the wheel weights for it too you can never be too safe..

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Aside from power, the physical size has been perfect. Not too big, not to small.

I feel the same way and I've heard alot of people say the same exact thing. I call it the "Goldilocks" tractor...perfect size for what alot of us do & need in a tractor.

The loader and backhoe spool valves are a little dissappointing from a mixing standpoint, but not a big deal. I can't combines motions as easily as I've been able to with other equipment, but my technique has been getting better. Also a few threads on the mixing issue here as well.

I think the general consensus is the cab models blend just fine, so if you get a cab model this would not pertain to your machine. I know on my Cabbed 3520 blending & the float modes work perfectly.

One thing I kinda like about the 3x20 series machines...along with TBN....is it seems like alot of issues are not so much a problem as they are a "common occurance" and a quick search here will hook you right up...some of the few things on the top of my head: Cab Roof Seals & Poor AC/Heat, Ground Speed Sensors, etc..

 

[jeffster]

I have a 3520 open station with the 300cx and I love it. The only thing I would change is to go with R1s instead of R4s. The R4s are great if everything is perfectly dry, but they are totally useless in the wet here (lots of clay, mud and of course manure). My neighbor has a 4720, and while I like his tractor as well, it is a LOT louder than mine, so I am kinda glad now I went with the 3520. Bought it new and have 54 hours on it now.

BTW, was actually going to buy a 3320, but they had a special order 3520 that the customer backed out of, so they sold it to me for about $4k under list to get it off the lot, so in the end, it was cheaper than buying the 3320 I was originally going to purchase.

Oh yeah, on another note, it is a great tractor for the kids to drive. I have an 11 year old and a 12 year old and they are pros at driving this as it isn't too big, and it is darn smooth.

 

[Wesdor]

I purchased a 3520 with 300 CX FEL last March. At the time I had a 4310 and was worried that I would like this one as much. I am happy to report that this was a very good move.

The cab would be a nice addition, but if I read the Deere site correctly, it is only available with the hydrostat drive. I'm one of those old school people who like a gear drive - thus the E-Power Reverser was my choice.

The 3520 is a real work horse and I highly recommend it.

 

[jeffster]

Wesdor, I totally agree, mine is a PowerReverser as well and I love it.

 

[farmboy12]

Power Reverser as almost as easy to use as a hydro. I'm 13, I can drive the M4900 (orange) like nothing. I've taken out trees, dug post-holes, lifted 2,000lb+ pallets.

However, the hydros are also great for mowing. Our NH and Fords are all hydros, and are some of the best tractors ever. I have heard that the hydro trannies in Ford/NH go out at about 1500hrs, though. Not sure about Deere.

We've never looked into 3x20/4x20's, but we were looking at 2x20 series for me, and they looked great.


Kyle

 

[Nuru]

Hello, i had a 4310, traded up to a 3520 CAB, 300CX, 366 Front Blade, pallet forks, etc and it is very good. I have slopes and I made it more stable by using Turf Special tires which are wider than the stock R3s that can be ordered wit the units. My unit is very nimble on the slopes, which range between 12 and 25% grade. No major issues at this time and I do hope it stays that way. Good Tractor. Definitely get multiple quotes, and do not be shy about presenting them to your prospective dealers, as that seems to make prices move like no tomorrow.

 

[mdmjrm]

Hello,

I purchased a 3320 in October, 300CX, 72MMM, HLA Pallet Forks, TopNTilt, Diverter, Power Beyond, I-Match, Frontier Box Blade, Ballast Box. I opted not to spend the $400 to upgrade The drive over deck. Time will tell if that was a good decision. I have 31 hours on it right now after spending 2 hours yesterday plowing snow.

I originally wanted a 3520 and my salesperson at the dealer said with e-hydro and loadmatch you won't see much difference. He is probably right for the 2K upgrade. You run out of traction before power all the time. Mostly use it to plow snow, haul firewood, run a wood splitter, and mow on my 20 acres. I installed the PB, Diverter, and T&T myself.

No complaints so far. I did a lot of research before purchasing. I grew up in a Deere family but get employee pricing on New Hollands. I drove everything from a TZ26 "smaller frame" to a TC40 trying to go blue and save 2-3K. This may start a war but there is no comparison in my opinion in just ease of use. I can jump on my 3320 turn the key and it starts. The stars have to align to start a NH and the alarm still beeps at you.

Anyway you will not be dissapointed with either one. After many reservations about the purchase, my wife creates more work for it than I do.

 

[WH401]

Congrats on the 3320 mdmjrm, though after seeing those pictures all I can think of are those e-trade commercial's with the adult talking baby.

 

[Karl2]

The cab would be a nice addition, but if I read the Deere site correctly, it is only available with the hydrostat drive.

It is and initially that made me hesitate to buy a cabbed 4720 for commercial snow removal because I was used to clutch drive and thought it was important to have control over power distribution. But the dealer remarked that a tractor that has over 60 hp being used for snow removal will skid long before it runs out of power no matter how many gears you have. Turns out he was right and I also found that hydro is more convenient for the job which requires driving long stretches in reverse with your body twisted backwards one hand on the steering wheel the other on the SCV lever to aim the snow discharge. This only leaves your foot free for changing travel direction on the fly when you miss a spot, with PR that would require more time and effort for no added benefit.

My guess is that manufacturers have determined that cabbed tractors are more likely to be used for high-speed jobs which are those that benefit most from hydro tranny.