Anything else to do when changing a head gasket?

[Coyote machine]

It would make it easier to run synthetic in all, less storage, remembering what goes in what/when, etc.
You don't want to know about the rings. Are you gonna pull her apart to replace rings now; I doubt it. Put her back together and drive; you've done a great job working to fix this motor, as you said, it was running the way it was and other than overheating..... So now it should run much much better.
The Rotella T is good oil. Your climate will take the 15-40, up north we need 5W-40 for the cold.

 

[Mace Canute]

Hast thou a lathe or other majick?


Here are the part numbers with links to Hoye site in case anyone else has the same problem (tractor is Yanmar 1610D, 3T75U engine):

• STUD: 105225-11350
• ROCKER ARM LOCK NUT M8: 26756-080002

Parts on the way!

But I wonder why they were so weak. They went with the head to the machine shop. Don't know if anything would have happened to them there. Torque spec is 40 ft-lb. Seems a little high. Dunno.

Yes, an old South Bend 9 inch model A.

40 ft-lb - that's obviously too much...the stripped threads say so. A quick Google check of general torque specs seems to give 20 to 25 ft-lb for a class 10.9 8mm fastener.

 

[Lobanz]

The radiator shop said that the Yanmar radiator was pretty clogged up, but it didn't leak. They let it stay in the tank over the weekend. I'm chalking up the Yanmar overheating only when under heavy load for extended periods to a dirty radiator. Should have it back together in a few days. Perhaps I can get the Kubota running again this weekend.

 

[Lobanz]

OK. Finally got Yanmar back together and it won't start.

Got new rocker arm tower studs and nuts. Put on rocker arm. Set the valve clearance to .008 per Service Manual, but used THIS procedure because it was very hard to see any indication of TDC on flywheel. Changed fuel filter. Bled fuel lines starting at fuel bowl, then injection pump, then injectors. Fuel came out around the injectors. Had decompression lever pushed in while bleeding to save battery. At first I thought it was going to start -- seemed like a cylinder would fire sporadically, but then it just stopped trying.

Here's what it's doing:

I figure it's got to be either fuel or compression. I'm guessing the thin white exhaust is atomized fuel from the injectors, so it's probably compression. Perhaps I didn't get close enough to TDC when I set the valve clearance. Will have another look at the flywheel tomorrow. Might try jump starting also. Maybe battery is a little weak.

Any other ideas?

 

[Coyote machine]

Definitely verify, as best as possible, TDC mark(s), and any other reference marks you can locate.
What is the condition of the glow plugs, assuming it has them? The injection pump timing is critical too. If you leave the pump loose enough to move ever so slightly in one direction or the other this too could help to get her started.
10-15 seconds max on cranking so to not cook the starter windings. Take breaks, charge up battery, then try again.

 

[Lobanz]

Definitely verify, as best as possible, TDC mark(s), and any other reference marks you can locate.
What is the condition of the glow plugs, assuming it has them? The injection pump timing is critical too. If you leave the pump loose enough to move ever so slightly in one direction or the other this too could help to get her started.
10-15 seconds max on cranking so to not cook the starter windings. Take breaks, charge up battery, then try again.

No glow plugs. Has a thermostart element in the intake manifold.

Haven't messed with the injector pump. Could head machining throw off the timing?

I've got a couple of big Odyssee 100 amp hour AGM batteries I can use too. They should be able to crank an ocean liner.

I'll get my coffee and head out there in a bit. Checking TDC marks first.

 

[Coyote machine]

Head shave could marginally affect overall compression, but TDC is still the same, it is a function of piston position of #1 cylinder.
Cleaning injectors could have tweaked the amount of fuel delivered, so pump timing MAY need adjustment too.
If you can make a very exact mark of where the pump is set now then you could have a second person move it ever so slightly in either direction, to see if she comes alive while cranking. VERY SLOWLY! Incremental adjustments....:thumbsup:
Easy on the batteries, you want to start it, not smoke it!

 

[Lobanz]

:cool2: OH YEAH !!! :cool2:

'Sworkin! Think it was valve clearance. There was a flywheel inspection hole, but no marks. I guess the hole is there so that you can confirm that the flywheel is indeed there and it does actually spin.

So, we found TDC by removing the injectors and poking a small wire down through the tiny hole in the pre-combustion chamber. Turns out I could actually see the cylinder when it was TDC through the tiny hole. So when it was coming up, we looked at the position of a fan blade. We traced the fan blade until the cylinder just started to go down and backed it up until the fan blade was in the middle of our two marks. I think we got TDC very accurately. And I did confirm that the valves were too tight at this point. We did the same on all cylinders.

Also, we put some fuel in the thermostart reservoir and I think that helped is start too. The thermostart is like a single glow plug in the intake manifold that gets a dribble of fuel on it. Makes a lot of smoke and eventually some flame. But it seems like it helped. This also accounted for some of the white smoke we were seeing.

Now it starts up VERY quick. You can hardly operate the ignition switch fast enough to make it not start. Very nice. Started pretty well before though. Drove it around on full throttle. Seems to work very well.

It's full of mostly distilled water at the moment, but I think I'm going to put some load on it and let it mix the water up a bit to get old antifreeze. Then I will drain and fill with 50/50 Rotella ELC coolant. The oil and filter was changed right before I started all this, but I will probably drain and fill it too in case any nastiness got in there when I was cleaning the head and such. I also want to drain and fill the transmission/hydraulic oil and clean the filter screen. Hasn't been that long, but I've noticed a bit of squealing then I first turn it on.

New hoses, belts, gaskets, filters and fluids. Should be in real good shape.

 

[Coyote machine]

Excellent!
Nice work. Definitely use coolant to protect the entire cooling system passages and water pump/radiator.
Now let's see the other machine running!

 

[Lobanz]

Replaced engine oil and transmission/hydraulic fluid in Yanmar. Cleaned transmission suction filter screen.

Flushing coolant system with distilled water. Ran her with some load (box blading) for 30-35 min. Afterward, I drained the water and it was kinda murky brown. Filled again with distilled water, rand for a few minutes. Still murky, though less so. I would like to see clear water before I put expensive coolant in there.

I've heard of people hooking up a garden hose to lower radiator hose and unhooking upper radiator hose and power flushing (starting with a cold engine of course). Any ideas on that?