Are work lights "customization"?

[CalG]

I fitted a 40 amp alternator to replace the 14 amp dynamo on the B2601 today. (About a two hour job)
I did this in preparation to fit a 72 watt LED light bar that I picked up years ago.
Now I need a suggestion as to where to tap power. The tractor has a 10 amp circuit to a "cig lighter" style socket between the roll over bar and the seat. I could just get the male plug and go "fully manual. I can't imagine using it for anything other than my heated vest ;-)
There are a pair of wires on a separate 5 amp fused circuit (rated 35 watts) that ends under the fender at the same location as the cig socket. (is there another name for that?)
35 watts are not enough for hardy anything.

All the above is just talk about looking for good ideas to add electrical service to a tractor that is rather sparse on that account (The Hurlimann is VERY full featured on the other hand.)

I would like to replace the 1156LL head lamps with "brighter" LED units.
I tried doing this to the B7200 but am VERY DISAPPOINTED with the actual light output of the LED lamps bought at the FLAPS. I realize these 1156 bulbs are intended for tail lights etc. Perhaps I expect too much. I did read a couple of reviews on lamps offered on the net. some folks shared my feelings, and blamed the poor output on the "reflector" configuration. Hmmmm....

Can anyone suggest a good choice of replacement bulbs for forward shining work lights in a Kubota head lamp shell?

TIA

 

[Chewwy]

I fitted a 40 amp alternator to replace the 14 amp dynamo on the B2601 today. (About a two hour job)
I did this in preparation to fit a 72 watt LED light bar that I picked up years ago.
Now I need a suggestion as to where to tap power. The tractor has a 10 amp circuit to a "cig lighter" style socket between the roll over bar and the seat. I could just get the male plug and go "fully manual. I can't imagine using it for anything other than my heated vest ;-)
There are a pair of wires on a separate 5 amp fused circuit (rated 35 watts) that ends under the fender at the same location as the cig socket. (is there another name for that?)
35 watts are not enough for hardy anything.

All the above is just talk about looking for good ideas to add electrical service to a tractor that is rather sparse on that account (The Hurlimann is VERY full featured on the other hand.)

I would like to replace the 1156LL head lamps with "brighter" LED units.
I tried doing this to the B7200 but am VERY DISAPPOINTED with the actual light output of the LED lamps bought at the FLAPS. I realize these 1156 bulbs are intended for tail lights etc. Perhaps I expect too much. I did read a couple of reviews on lamps offered on the net. some folks shared my feelings, and blamed the poor output on the "reflector" configuration. Hmmmm....

Can anyone suggest a good choice of replacement bulbs for forward shining work lights in a Kubota head lamp shell?

TIA

Can’t help with the replacement bulbs.

You could power your led bar directly from the battery including an inline fuse and a switch to be mounted somewhere convenient.

 

[alexpops]

Or add a fuse block and ground bus for custom accessories. That way, you control the wire sizes, fuse sizes, switch ratings, etc. Once you figure your max sustained load from all that you want to add, you can size a feed wire and "main fuse" for the new panel.

Inlines work, but I've never liked them. Too easy to do a crappy job where you throw it in in the heat of the moment while installing the modification, then not labeling. Winds up wasting a lot of repair time tracing wires if everything is red or black and not labeled. With a fuse block, you spend more time thinking out the circuit design, but less time tracking down where you installed the inline, which wire goes where, etc. IMO

 

[RjCorazza]

Perhaps a male socket with a built in switch? I have a cigarette lighter splitter / volt meter that has a switch for each outlet. Very convenient, and lighted as well.
I have tried several led headlight replacement bulbs, but have never been satisfied with any of them. I keep the led bulbs in the headlamps for the reduced watts and rely on (4) 55w led on the cab corners.

 

[CalG]

Can’t help with the replacement bulbs.

You could power your led bar directly from the battery including an inline fuse and a switch to be mounted somewhere convenient.

Yes, there is always the "Direct" option.

BFI!

"Brute force and ignorance"

Get 'er done!

One aspect, the 40 amp alternator is supplied with a 50 amp fuse "in Line", in it's own holder. Any snagging of additional circuits just got easy!

 

[CalG]

digging around. I found these

LED 1156 Headlight Bulbs 1,000 Lumens Super Bright (Sold by the Pair)

Super Bright 1,000 Lumens 1156 LED Bulb for Garden Tractors

isavetractors.com

 

[oosik]

Just another blessing of being retired. 42+ years out here and I've never had anything so urgent that I had to use the tractor at night. It can always wait for tomorrow and day light.

I do have one small work light - mounted on the cage that protects the emergency blinkers. Points out back so I could see the rear blade at night.

 

[dodge man]

I also think the easiest is just to jam a wire in the positive terminal of the battery with a fuse near that connection. After that just wire it and put a switch where ever it fits for you.

 

[Bansil]

How much does the lightbar pull? Most I have seen/used use small gauge wires. What is stock alternator output?

 

[RobertEH]

I added an accessory block bus bar for my front and rear lights. It allows me to expand for a few other accessories pretty easily as needed. I run inline fuses, and I put a fuse between the block and the battery as well 30 amp to start with but it will go up to 60 (I added this after the photos were taken so not visible). Only 25 bucks on amazon.

Amazon.com