ARRRRRRGH!!!!!!! Broke my tractor.... Engine Block went SNAP...

[mahlers]

I wonder if you can get a reasonably priced reman engine from NH and then attempt to do the repairs on yours at your leisure. At least then you have an extra engine as a spare - or for other projects that won't be putting stress loads on the engine block. I can think of all kinds of things I would build if I had an extra 33HP diesel engine sitting around. Worst case scenario is that you'd have a bunch of spare parts all pre-organized for you if something on the new engine needs replacement down the line.

It would also probably be a good time to start engineering some reinformcement so this doesn't happen again... I think it is stupid to use the engine as a load-bearing part of a tractor frame, but that's just me and I like to over-engineer everything.

 

[KrisHansen]

I wonder if you can get a reasonably priced reman engine from NH and then attempt to do the repairs on yours at your leisure. At least then you have an extra engine as a spare - or for other projects that won't be putting stress loads on the engine block. I can think of all kinds of things I would build if I had an extra 33HP diesel engine sitting around. Worst case scenario is that you'd have a bunch of spare parts all pre-organized for you if something on the new engine needs replacement down the line.

It would also probably be a good time to start engineering some reinformcement so this doesn't happen again... I think it is stupid to use the engine as a load-bearing part of a tractor frame, but that's just me and I like to over-engineer everything.

No matter what happens, I'm going to look into reinforcing the loader frame. The only thing is, I"m no engineer, I just know how to weld. So, I would have no way to know if what I'm doing will help, or hurt the situation.

 

[TomOfTarsus]

Guess the weld repair is out of the question?

BTW, nice mods. I'd like to do the light thing on my ROPS as well.
(Glory. I don't even get the thing until tomorrow morning!!!)

 

[bandit67]

Kris,

You may want to see if you can track down a metallurgist that can do a metallurgical failure analysis - it might cost a few hundred, but if you're faced with a $7k+ bill for a new motor, one of those guys could tell you if the failure was related to the casting process, design, etc. If it turned out that the problem had been there since back during the warranty coverage, that kind of information could make the case for NH to cover the engine replacement on their dime.

It would be worth a few phone calls. Good luck.

 

[IH3444]

Go to the New Holland dealer lot, and look and see if the engine block is the same being used in the TC34 tractors, and take notice if any changes/improvement have been made to that area of the block casting...just a place to start.

 

[KrisHansen]

Again, thanks all for the GREAT suggestions, and listening and sympathizing. It means a lot.

Here are pics of the carnage. I added arrows to the crack on the left side, because it's somewhat hard to see. Apologies to those with slow connections (me too...) and small monitors.

It's fairly clear that this crack has been here for a while. I guess since I wasn't looking for it, it was easy to overlook in my garage whilst performing other maintenance tasks.

As you can clearly see in this shot, the lovely 'subframe' ends JUST before where the block broke. Nice design NH!

I went around it today, and found NO, repeat NO loose bolts anywhere.

And to add insult to injury, it now flat refuses to engage the starter motor. You can hear the solenoid, but no start. I can turn the crank by hand, so I know it's not seized..

Now I'm just waiting for my pal to drag it up to the dealer.

Thank goodness for plan B.

I now recall why I decided to stop using the ATV and get a tractor. The 'wheeler works fine, but it takes HOURS and is hard work.

 

[bandit67]

I now recall why I decided to stop using the ATV and get a tractor. The 'wheeler works fine, but it takes HOURS and is hard work.

You're tellin' me! I picked up a snowplow with a manual lift for our ATV last fall to get me through the winter until the new tractor arrives. That's a good way to fast-track your tractor buying plans. I also picked up a used track-drive snowblower and am selling it tomorrow - those suckers are way too slow - at least with a wheeled blower, you can move it around quickly between the blowing runs.

No way I'm going through another winter without a tractor. I was thinking of selling the ATV plow, but after reading your posts, I guess I should hang onto it for emergencies.

 

[tomd999]

Kris,

Sorry for your loss man, that's definitely a big bag of suck. I second the idea of calling in a metallurgist and a welder that specializes in castings.

You said a short block is 7600, what is the price of a bare block? If it's running fine, why replace everything below the head gasket, just swap the parts over. (checking clearances of course)

You said the it appears that it broke in a ^ pattern, how is the upper bell housing bolts/casting? There may be more damage there.

Your failure to crank may be caused by the ring gear having been popped off the flywheel from interference or starter housing damage when the block/bell housing mating flexed.

I suspect your oil leak is being caused by seepage from the crack through to the crankcase or a oil pan gasket surface that is no longer parallel, if it was a galley, oil would be forced out under pressure.

I would pay attention to the mating surface alignment and square along with dowel length when it is disassembled. Either one being an issue would cause the block/bell housing to be stressed. Not that I don't trust a dealer but I would try to be present with a good camera to document everything just in case there was evidence of improper assembly at some point.

My 2 cents,

Tom

 

[joes_427_vette]

Argueing with NH on warranty is like wrestling in mud with a pig. I had the fancy extra extended warranty on my TC45DA and shortly after the warranty expired the dash fogged up, the tilt wheel quit tilting , and the hydro wouldn't return to neutral properly. Back to the dealer and here was there suggestion. We will fix it and if NH doesn't cover the work you can just send a check. As I recall it was well over a grand adding a few other little quirks. The extended only covered the engine driveline parts.

Needless to say I switched dealers and tractors. Never had a problem with the 55 but somehow I believe the reputation my current dealership has it would be taken care of. It is just a shame one is 40 miles away and the other is less than 10.

I would definately buy a bare block and transfer components. It is the only logical action to repair the tractor.

 

[JC-jetro]

It's fairly clear that this crack has been here for a while. I guess since I wasn't looking for it, it was easy to overlook in my garage whilst performing other maintenance tasks.


As you can clearly see in this shot, the lovely 'subframe' ends JUST before where the block broke. Nice design NH!

Kris,

I agree with you that the crack been there for a while but it does look strange. Where the crack occurs is the thickest part of the engine casting. The casting is thinner where the loader mount is attached to the clutch housing or tranny. The mount should also be connected to the front of the engine/frame and in effect make a parallelogram to keep the twisting force at bay between front of the tractor/engine and clutch housing. On some tractors like most Kubotas or TLBs the sub frame is tied to the rear axle rather then engine. How is your mount connected to front of the engine? Is there anything missing there? it looks to me the parallelogram that transfer the load between clutch housing and front of the engine is missing something or somewhat bend. Crack like that might also be caused by carrying a heavy load in the bucket coupled with driving fast on a bumpy terrain causing a fatigue failure to occur eventually and what finally broke the camel's back was heavy snow and some twisting action. I'm sorry for your misfortune any time I read this thread but as all of us know only thing that can not be replaced is life and family and a tractor in the big scheme of thing is nothing.

JC,