ARRRRRRGH!!!!!!! Broke my tractor.... Engine Block went SNAP...

[MikePA]

Any pics, Kris? A fellow Class II owner with a 7308 is curious.

 

[dqdave1]

I posted last year when I was moving snow mounds and as I was moving along a curbed road I caught a storm water drain with edge of the bucket. Completely twisted the loader and bucket. It also bent the loader support arm that contains the quick-release. According to my dealer; most of the weight is transfered to the rear arms. That is why mine bent there. As strong as they are built, I was amazed that it bent. I had mine repaired at a auto body shop; they replaced the bent arm; then put it on frame straightener and twisted it back straight. Actually, the bucket is leveler now than before. It cost me $1000.00 to getparts and have it straightened and repainted.
Your problem has been discussed here before. It may be wise to locktite these bolts to prevent them from becoming loose.
Good luck on the repair. What does a complete rebuilt motor cost?

 

[MikePA]

It may be wise to locktite these bolts to prevent them from becoming loose.

Kris' problem was caused by loose bolts? If so which ones?

 

[TomOfTarsus]

I'm curious... no real experience with the machine or blocks in particular. But with $7600 on the line, is there a chance you could pull the motor, diassemble and repair the broken areas by welding?

A crack into the oil passageways (unless it's just the sump) probably couldn't be repaired that way, but it's not impossible to weld castings, just not fun. And you have to make sure you've ground out or drilled out the crack tip and properly prepared the weld. You may have to take a machining pass across the gasket face after welding to correct any distortion, as well. But if you're good with a wrench and know a good welder, this may be an alternative.

But like I said, I may be talking out of my hat. Still, I had a guy weld up my precious cast aluminum mower deck after I put a rock through it, and although it's not load bearing, it would appear that it could be load bearing, and that load bearing welds can be made in this fashion.

Best to you, hope it goes well (and cheap!)

Tom

 

[sugarloafguy]

Kris,

My heart totally goes out to you on this one. I would lay down and cry literally. I am wondering if CNH has a problem with this 7308 loader setup also since I have read numerous posts on cracked blocks on the TC30 machine with that loader and it appears to be in the same spot. I passed last week on a 2004 TC24DA loader tractor/60" MMM (127hrs) in favor of likely buying a new one since I am a little gun shy on New Holland right now. I would lay really hard on CNH corporate with my dealer to get this done on the company dime. I know you did not bang this machine around hard enough to crack the block with low hours like that.

Brian

 

[bones1]

Tom is correct.An up to date machine shop can repair cast very well now days with the new technology.If the block and bell housing separate, you can fashion a thin plate between them for support, just mill the bell housing down for the added thickness of the plate.

 

[KrisHansen]

Kris' problem was caused by loose bolts? If so which ones?

NO! There are no loose bolts on it anywhere. Personally, I can't see how loose bolts could cause this. Nothing is bent, nothing is unusually worn looking.

Tonight I hope to get it running and into the garage so I can get photos.

 

[KrisHansen]

Kris,

My heart totally goes out to you on this one. I would lay down and cry literally. I am wondering if CNH has a problem with this 7308 loader setup also since I have read numerous posts on cracked blocks on the TC30 machine with that loader and it appears to be in the same spot. I passed last week on a 2004 TC24DA loader tractor/60" MMM (127hrs) in favor of likely buying a new one since I am a little gun shy on New Holland right now. I would lay really hard on CNH corporate with my dealer to get this done on the company dime. I know you did not bang this machine around hard enough to crack the block with low hours like that.

Brian

Yep, pretty much how I felt/feel. You know, I wouldn't be surprised, considering ALL of the stress of the loader is placed squarely on the engine block.

To reiterate, my engine broke from the top down, as if it was bowing like a ^.. It's not broken like it's sagging in the middle.

 

[KrisHansen]

I posted last year when I was moving snow mounds and as I was moving along a curbed road I caught a storm water drain with edge of the bucket. Completely twisted the loader and bucket. It also bent the loader support arm that contains the quick-release. According to my dealer; most of the weight is transfered to the rear arms. That is why mine bent there. As strong as they are built, I was amazed that it bent. I had mine repaired at a auto body shop; they replaced the bent arm; then put it on frame straightener and twisted it back straight. Actually, the bucket is leveler now than before. It cost me $1000.00 to getparts and have it straightened and repainted.
Your problem has been discussed here before. It may be wise to locktite these bolts to prevent them from becoming loose.
Good luck on the repair. What does a complete rebuilt motor cost?

I don't see how they could be.. If it wasn't for the front arms, the rear arms would just fall over. It seems to me that when you lift things, ALL of the weight is transferred to the FRONT arms, and therefore, the ENGINE.

I also don't see how it could break the engine rather than lift the rear end.

I use my loader a lot. That's why I bought this machine. If it's not up to the task, that's a big problem.

I've inspected the tractor, there is not a single loose bolt anywhere.

 

[KrisHansen]

with such low hours its a shame theres no warranty.Good luck and hopefully someone will step up to the plate and help you out

I've got everything crossed I can cross..