ASV RC-100 Electrical Problems

[TrailMaint]

We have an ASV-RC100 with approx 2000 hours on it. Electrical problems first started over a year ago. The first thing we had issues with was the Quick Attach. It shorted out after removing the overhead console and after talking with Terex Tech's we had to run a seperate wire from the switch to the Solenoid to get it working again. The Digital Readout that shows Fuel Level and Hours does not work. It will come on once in a blue moon but then goes dark again. About a month ago, the Ignition Fuse just blew on it's own. Replaced and all has been fine. Now just a few days ago, the machine just quit in mid motion. Checked Fused first. None were blown including the 60 and 80amp ones. Got back in cab, and jiggled the Canon Connector behind the Drivers Seat above your right shoulder and the lights on the dash came on and it started. Later it stopped again and jiggle the Canon Connector it fired up again. So what I am thinking here, that this big connector with all the pins in it seems to be the culprit and might be the problems to all my electrical problems. I have taken the connector loose and cleaned with Electronic Contact Cleaner. It does not look nasty or anything.

I talked with Terex and they have a Connector Kit. I was wondering if anyone has experience with this Kit and putting one on. Also if anyone has a schematic diaphragm for this connector I would surely appreciate a copy of it.

Thanks
Ron

 

[McCaskey]

You are on the right track.
According to my local ASV shop mechanics, the cab connector is their biggest nightmare and first look for any electrical issues. A you have seen, it's a very dense connector that can easily become shorted from leaking rainwater into the cab. Every time the cab is lifted, the higher chance the harness will become pinched when closing.

 

[TrailMaint]

I asked the Tech at Terex about changing that connector myself. He said it can be done, not to have anyone around when trying to do it and distracting you. I wonder how those pins release from those Connectors. Sounds like a really big deal there are something like 37 pins I think he said. Could there be another solution so you could ditch that connector all together. Again, does anyone know where I can get the schematic for that connector. Was thinking if I could Identifier the wires just pull them out of the connector and hard wire them so to lose the connector. Good Idea or Bad Idea?

 

[cili]

I had some to corrode beyond use so I drilled a 3/8 hole over to the side, cut those and ran them through the 3/8 hole and put male/female connectors in case I needed to seperate there for whatever reason. If I had your problem I'd drill bigger or more holes and just do each one at a time that way or you may can use exiting hole if you can keep up with your wires. Good luck

 

[TrailMaint]

Thanks for the Reply's so far.

The Canon Connector Male End has some green electrical type tape wrapped around it inside the cab portion of the connector. If I undo the Tape to expose the wires will the wires have numbers imprinted on them and will the numbers match up to the wires that are attached to the Female End of the connector that comes from underneath the cab? If the numbers matched, then that would make it easier to pull one wire at a time and match them up to reconnect.

 

[cili]

Sorry i just dont remember but you have other things you can go buy and it won't be as bad as you think. I dont remember that part being an issue.

 

[TrailMaint]

As of yet I have not fooled with the Canon Connector and ordered the kit. Today while using the machine to Bush Hog I stopped for lunch. When I tried to start it I had no Crank. The lights would come on, fuel pump would come on but no crank on the starter. I was out in the middle of no where. I called Terex support. After some discussion he had me removed the Starter Relay and check for voltages on the pins inside the fuse block. We then jumper wire across two pins and start worked. He said that everything was good from Fuse Block to starter. With my helper in the seat, turned the key and I jumped again to start machine. Finished the job without shutting it down and headed back to trailer to load it up. I then turned the key off. Still no crank by turning the key. The tech did tell me that when you turn the key, that all the switches are checked on the overhead console. He said it could be a dirty switch connector or numerous other problems.

Wish there was a way to bypass all this electrical safety stuff.

Just one more electrical problem that has shown it's ugly head. I am fed up with this machine. It just seems to me, that one by one the electrical systems and safety's are going out in this machine. I am not sure what to do anymore.

 

[cwboy222]

Got an RC-100 Rubber Track loader that was operating fine until we quit for lunch. Come back started engine but the hydralics will not work or the machine move.

 

[McCaskey]

Interlocks;
Lap bar, door switch or Quick Disconnect switch is up.

 

[ultraglide62]

I have the same machine that you are having problems with. Please keep us posted if you solve the electrical problem. I will not be able to sleep until I hear the outcome! I had a problem with the safety switch for the door but nothing like you are experiencing. Do you find the tech folks at Terex helpful?
I live on Whidbey Island and a servicing dealer is non existent. If you find it was your connector do you think there is a way to prevent this type of problem before it happens?

Thanks and good luck

 

[cbailey1956]

ASV/Terex had some electrical issues when they came out that were addressed in tech bulletins. Many were related to grounding point issues. Paint, corrosion etc. The cab connector plug was common also. If you have to replace it have a good light and possibly magnifier glasses. The pin holes are numbered on both sides and go in circular rotation. So once you get started it is just a matter of concentration and insuring you have the right number/color wire as you place them in. Have you taken a good electrical contact cleaner and sprayed out the connectors. Once you do that get a bright flashlight and inspect the pins and contacts. Most the time you can find one that is burned or pushed in and not making a good connection. I was able to to replace one or two connectors/pins to solve the problem. Use connector compound when done to help prevent corrosion. The wires are identified very well in the ASV harness's I previously worked on. When done try to find all your grounding points and clean them well. Most gremlins were related to inconsistent ground connections.

 

[cbailey1956]

Forgot to mention the early machines had a relay issue. ASV had a bulletin refering to replacing one type of relay with different upgraded relays. This was early on.

 

[sempervolans03]

I am new to this thread, but I am hoping someone might be able to assist me. I want to replace the cab connector on the ASV RC-100 that keeps getting corroded. does anyone know the 2 wire sizes that go into this? I want to get a better connector that the plastic one. any help would be great. I know the OEM connector is the 0285-004; however, it does not give the pin sizes or wire sizes. thank you.

 

[McCaskey]

Corrosion in the connector is very common. Only only reason to keep the connector is if you wanted to remove the cab someday. My local ASV repair shop has never needed to remove a cab.
From the inside, they use a pin extraction tool to remove each pin, one at a time, put shrink wrapping around the wire and solder them together.