Attaching 3 point implements

[Slade]

After three cycles of removing and attaching my 7' BushHog it still takes longer than it seems it should.

I always disconnect on level ground. Any other hints that make lining up to attach easier? TIA.

 

[flusher]

After three cycles of removing and attaching my 7' BushHog it still takes longer than it seems it should.

I always disconnect on level ground. Any other hints that make lining up to attach easier? TIA.

Takes me less than 5 minutes to attach my 6ft Hawkline brush hog. I just get the lift arm ball joints under the pins on the mower. Next, use a 5-ft prybar to work the front of the mower back and forth to attach the lift arms. No sweat. With the prybar I can easily shift the mower around to make the connections.

 

[daBear]

Same here, I would just about do it by myself that with someone helping. When I first got my tractor two years ago it took me forever to hook up anything. I even bought a quick hitch system similar to Pat's. Now the quick hit sits in my garage cabinet. Give it some time and you will hook up an attachment in no time.

 

[thatguy]

Pats EZ Change - Worth every dollar you will spend.. Just back up to the mower with the 3pt arms lowered - raise the arms to lock onto the pins.. Dismount tractor and raise/lower 3pt to get the top link connected.. Turn off tractor and hook up the PTO..

No need to adjust the anti-sway chains/bars since you raise the 3pt arms to connect to the pins.. No heave/ho-ing the mower to get the ball joints lined up..

Brian

 

[RoyJackson]

The only reason I bought Pat's Easy Change was due to the hassle of rigging my rotary cutter.
I use the Easy Change on my other implements (finish mower, ballast box and a borrowed rake) and all are easier to rig...but that cutter was the only implement that was a serious PITA.

 

[dbdartman]

I have a pair of pressure treated 2X10's about 2' long, screwed together (flat to flat, so they're 3.5" tall by 8.something inches wide by about 24" long), for each side of the front of the mower. Set the mower on this when it's not in use. Mounting is still a matter of getting the tractor as close to square as possible to the mower. Since this is all done in the pole barn with cement floor, I can shut the tractor down & leave it out of gear without it rolling away, yet still move it reasonable easily by pushing/pulling on the rear tires. Only have one anti-sway link also. Sometimes I'll pull the pin on the anti sway link to hook up, sometimes I'll just use a 3'-4' long 2X4 to slide the mower around (the reason for the blocks under the front, it slides much easier on them than it does on concrete, or dirt). An added bonus to my method is that the blocks hold the front of the mower at my cutting height, so the top link can be hooked up & adjusted properly before I ever move the tractor, plus I can set the drop height of the 3PH easily once I start the tractor back up (pull the 3PH control lever back slowly until all slack is out of the lift arms, set the stop, lift & go).

BTW, last time I hooked the mower up, I got really REALLY lucky! Only backed the tractor up twice before I was happy with it's position. Pulled the pin on the anti sway link & the left lift arm fell right on the pin, then the pin went right back in the anti sway link. The other side was slightly harder as I got the lift arm started on the pin, then had to rock the tractor fore & aft a little to get the arm fully on the pin. All told, I don't think it took more than about 3.5 minutes to drop the back hoe, grab the 5' mower, & get to work!

 

[texasjohn]

For best results, I have all these things:

0) leave implement on sufficiently level ground.

1) extendable sway bars.. Kubota factory standard install

2) PATS Easy Change...after market purchase

3) constructed with schedule 40 plastic pipe an attachment allowing me to raise and lower the 3ph arms from the rear of the tractor while I'm hooking
things up.

4) hydraulic top link with a chain tripod hanging arrangement allowing me to position the angle of the shaft so it will engage the implement properly...after market purchase/construction using regular hydraulic cylinder.

5) constructed, same as 3 above, attachment allowing me to lengthen and shorten the top link from the rear of the tractor.

6) 3 lb hammer carried with tractor at all times, seldom used.

7) devise a place to carry items 3 and 5 with the tractor always, yet out of the way.

 

[RalphVa]

I sit the front of the cutter onto a dolly, which is mainly a piece of 1 by with castors underneath. Store it on a concrete floor. It's easy to move around to remove or to reconnect. My 1st 3 wheel castors weren't up to the task but did allow the 1by to site steady underneath. The little wheels broke. I put on a couple of heavy duty ones. Thought I'd screwed up, as I hadn't thought about how it was gonna stand up while I lowered the cutter onto it. Answer was to insert a 2by4 on edge to one side of it (or could sit it in the middle). It sits slightly cockeyed on the 2by4 because it's slightly more than 3 1/2" up to the 1by from the concrete floor, but once the cutter is lowered onto, it straightens out, and there's clearance to slide the 2by4 out. I've a little note that I put on the tractor seat for when remounting it, as I've forgotten to remove the 1by and have busted it a couple of times by the cutter being moved over it.

Ralph

 

[Youare]

I have several 3PH pieces that I change frequently sometimes it goes easy and other times it is not so easy. The system that seems to work best is back up as square as possible and centered on the piece you want to connect.

I loosen the sway stablizers and connect the left side one first, the one that is not adjustable for height. Next I connect the right side lower arm. This side is adjustable which allows you to move it into place. The top link is then connected which may require lifting the front of what you are connecting or adjusting the top link.

Having a pry bar handy will save your back.

Randy

 

[Larry3228]

I drop the stump jumper on a small-truck tire. It allows me to swivel the entire unit and to raise and lower a corner. (A trick I learned here on TBN). A few kicks with the bottom of my boot eliminates the need for a 3-pound hammer. With practice it takes only a few minutes to get it hooked up.