Attachment points

[Beaux Duke]

I just got through searching the forum for pictures of rigs to see where/how everyone is attaching their chains to the tractor when on the trailer.

I couldn't find any clear close up shots of the front and most of the rear seemed to be going to the center of the 3 point hitch.

You can see by the number of posts that I'm a rank amateur so if you have any close up shots of how you secured the chain to the front of the tractor I'd like to see'em. I'd like to appear somewhat knowledgeable when I pick up my tractor this Tuesday. I guess I could just stand back and let the dealers crew do all the work but I'd like to know if it's being done properly.

I've already bought the chain and ratchet binders. I just need some ideas on how to route the chain.

 

[framer]

I use one in front hooked to side trailer wrap around center Axel to other side
hooked and bind ed.Same on rear axle.Lot of guys like four chains one on each corner.Framer

 

[Beaux Duke]

So you use one chain, looped around the axle as close to the center as you can get it then use one binder on the other side? Same technique for the rear?

 

[chh]

2 of my current tractors all have pins for the front attach and my other one I loop over the front axle to do the front. On the rear I either use the rear hitch on the drawbar or run thru the space where you can adjust the drawbar from side to side. I use one chain and one binder on each end of the tractor. Some states require(and some people prefer) 1 chain and binder at each corner. I have seen quite a few tractors and even full sized backhoes hauled with one chain and 1 binder using the front of the trailer as a stop and pulling the equipment forward with the chain/binder. I would not recommend this practice at all, there is no safety margin at all if a chain comes loose.
I also like to set up the binders where I can see them out of the driver's side mirror. That makes them much easier to monitor. I also check the chains and binders a short distance from the house. If nothing has come loose on my road I'm good for the trip.

 

[JB4310]

I consider myself lucky having very solid and easily accessible connection points on my tractor, especially being new to trailering myself. Seen some guys where they had to have some kind of D-rings welded on to the frames to facilitate binding them on a trailer, which would be a worthwhile investment if you had to do it.

Here's how I did mine.

JB.

 

[Beaux Duke]

Thanks guys.

I really like your set up JB4310. The pictures really help. 1000 words X's 3!!

I've bought the Grade 70 chain. It came in 20 foot lengths. From what I see you are using about 10 feet per corner, maybe less. Did you cut yours or did you just buy the length you need. I already have two 20 foot lengths so I'm thinking of cutting the middle link and get more Grade 70 hooks.

I bought the chains and ratchet binders from Harbor Freight but I'm heading to TSC this morning to see if they have American made chain and binders. Another story in the news yesterday about rocket fuel in baby food from China.

What's that old saying? "You get what you pay for"

It's kinda funny, I'm kinda reluctant to use chain because I don't want to scratch my tractor but then I plan to use it clearing a couple acres.

 

[JB4310]

I cut a 15 footer in half, I live near the AWdirect warehouse so I can just go there and buy direct, it's all high quality stuff, and the prices are decent. not sure how much shipping would add to the price though.

I've heard of guys putting chain inside a pc of fire hose or other sleeve to protect metal surfaces.

http://www.awdirect.com/grade-70-pr...8-in-x-15-ft-1138g715/safety-recovery-chains/

JB.

 

[radioman]

bduke- you should study jb4310 pictures closely. If you can take a moment and look at the chains going through the stake pocket and then back up and the hooks is simply resting there going down. This is the federal DOT preferred way of chain attachment on the trailer. The reason behind it as i understand it is that if the chain ever gets loose, the chain won't be flapping all over the place and its still secured on the trailer. I just wanted to point this out since this is how the pros do it too.

 

[JB4310]

I'm brand new to equipment trailering so I was reluctant at first to use the stake pockets to attach chain to, thought they were for wood stakes, but everyone assured me that's the way to do it.

JB.

 

[Beaux Duke]

Yeah, I noticed how the chain was routed through the stake pocket right away. Looked to be a good idea right off the bat. That's the sort of info I need.

I have a 36 foot 5th wheel RV that I pull so I'm used to having something big and heavy behind me. I just want to make sure the load is locked down securely.

The tandem axle car hauler I already had is insufficient for the tractor (almost 8k lbs) so I'll be borrowing my SIL's trailer for a while to haul it back and forth from my current home to the site I'll be clearing. His is rated for 10,400 lbs gvwr so I'm thinking I might need to step up to something with more capacity. After I see how his does I can decide if I should go with a 12k or 14k.

The trip to TSC was a let down. Chain was exactly like the Harbor Freight chain but priced higher. Had the "China" marking on it.
I checked out the link to AW Direct. Looks like their prices are reasonable. If I can't find some locally, I'll probably order some from them.

 

[burnetma]

I bought my chain from Lowe's. Better price and made in the USA.

 

[Beaux Duke]

How much for 3/8 in. grade 70?

 

[burnetma]

I bought 5/16"x20 Grade 70 (SWL=4700 lbs) for $33/each. I see know that they go for $36/each.

Why do you need 3/8" (SWL=6600 lbs)?

 

[Beaux Duke]

My tractor weighs 8k lbs.

Could you explain to me how the chain rating works.

I was thinking one chain on one corner is good for either 4700 or 6600. Doesn't appear to be enough to me. Of course the tractor won't be hanging by one chain (I hope). Do you multiply by the number of chains you use to determine whether you're properly covered? Would 2 chains on the rear be 4700 X 2 = 9400? Not a lot of cushion compared to 6600 X 2 = 13200. But then again, I'm not sure if that's how it works as far as how much you're "covered". The price of 3/8 is a lot more that's for sure!

I really don't want an 8k tractor coming through my back window but if 5/16 will work then I'm not opposed to using it.

Thanks

 

[JB4310]

Not positive but pretty sure the sum of the chains has to be equal to or greater than the load. so yeah 4x 5/16 would be enough, but if your tractor weighs 8,000 lbs I wouldn't consider anything but grade 70 3/8.
With the 5/16 you would have to watch it closely for any minor nicks or other imperfections that would down grade the chain, at least with the 3/8 you have a little buffer against minor damage.

I think it has been determined that Lowe's only has the 5/16 in grade 70.

JB.

 

[Beaux Duke]

Just got back from Lowes. All they had at my local store was 5/16 in Grade 70.
TSC had Grade 70 in 20 foot lengths so I bought 2 and had them cut it at the middle link. Didn't think they were going to be able to cut it in two for a few minutes.

There'$ a rea$on it come$ in a gold color.

Next time I will plan ahead so I don't have to buy at the last minute.

 

[Iowachild]

I bought my chain from Lowe's. Better price and made in the USA.

Yes, it's made by Campbell and at $36.00 is a fantastic buy. Thanks for the heads up!!
Campbell 5/16" X 20' chain @ Lowes

 

[burnetma]

This is the way I understand it to work.

The requirement for wheeled vehicles is that the sum of the "weakest link" must be equal to or greater than the load retained. Four chains and four binders are required. So, in the case of Grade 70 5/16" chains and binders used at 1/corner the safe load would be 18,800 lbs (4 x 4700 lbs).

If I am wrong, I would appreciate somebody speaking up.

This is my approach to binding down my 10,200 lb tractor.