ATV Trailer build

[handirifle]

I don't think the simpler bearings would hold the weight if the trailer were loaded heavy. I might be wrong though. My trailer dimensions are 30 wide and 48 long, at the floor, but at 10" above the floor the sides taper out to just under 5 1/2ft wide. So if loaded with dirt or firewood it could weigh a bit.

Even the ones with tapered bearings are not too expensive, about $40 for hub/spindle combo. Mine is neither of those sizes, by the way. I do not have metric measuring equip, but at approx 5 1/16", that converts to more like 125-125mm.

I figure if I go with the 4x4 it would be easy to step up to other tires and wheels later, if I needed to.

 

[handirifle]

Another option would be to drill the wheel to fit a hub with bearings in it.

View attachment 454378

Yea that was the idea with the ring or plate added in. Hmmm, I wonder if there is a 4 on 5.5? The other issue might be the hub outside diameter fitting inside that rim as well. That was one reason I thought of the 4 on 4 hubs, clearance would not be an issue.

 

[Cord]

I used a 1200lb tube trailer axle that I bought of CL for all three of my atv trailer builds. You get a strong axle, leaf springs, high speed roller bearings and bolt on hubs for a fraction of new. Cut the axle in the center to narrow it to the width you desire. 12" trailer wheels are cheap online and then I mount some take-off atv tires on them. You can put a front tire on the 4" rims, but I prefer the rears which take the wider rims. I like a little suspension in my trailers so they don't bounce around so much. I used a single leaf trailer spring and then put rubber bump stops between the spring and axle so I could still load the trailer. The tongue is a simple tube that is bolted to the frame in front of the axle. A tipper latch secures the tongue and a couple of pieces of angle guides it. Trailers have seen extensive use and abuse with no signs of damage.

 

[GLyford]

Your odd mixed fraction threw me (5-1/6) if it's closer to 5.6 then yes, there seem to be a bunch that use 140, 143, or 144mm. Since most trailer hubs outer edge seems to be at 5-1/2", you will probably need some sort of intermediate way to go from that to your wheels, rather than just redrilling the trailer hubs.

If you have any old trailer wheels around (or can find some cheap) could you cut the centers out of a couple and drill those for the larger pattern?

 

[handirifle]

No not 5.6 in fractions it comes to 5.166 it's 5" + 1/16" 5 1/16. It was a typo on my part. I corrected it.

 

[handirifle]

The forum won't let me correct the original post, sorry for the confusion folks. It's 5 1/16" NOT 5 1/6" Now I see why there was confusion.

Cord,
I do keep my eyes open for such deals. They either haven't showed up yet, for me, or they want more than I can buy the hubs for new. I am patient though.

 

[GLyford]

In that case, you might be able to get away with drilling a 2nd set of holes in a standard hub.

 

[GLyford]

5-1/16 = 5.0625 =~ 128mm. 130mm seems to be a common size too...?

 

[Xfaxman]

The forum won't let me correct the original post, sorry for the confusion folks. It's 5 1/16" NOT 5 1/6" Now I see why there was confusion.
------------------------------

Yep, can't edit after 24 hours.

For this type measuring get a divider and a metric ruler.

 

[handirifle]

In that case, you might be able to get away with drilling a 2nd set of holes in a standard hub.

I agree, but the front hubs will not fit inside the rear wheels, by a long shot. The inside of the front wheels looks like it would allow a plate of approx 6.25", maybe slightly less. I would cut something from wood to test before making a metal one though. The front hubs are about 7.5" in diameter.

If I came across a cheap set of hubs on craigs list or similar, I would surely look into that.

Now another thought just came to me. If I can locate another rear hub, (I only have one) I could bolt those into the metric wheels, and obtain a set of 4" hubs (If I do not find a cheaper set to drill as above) and cut the center out of the factory hubs and use THOSE as my adapters (IF I can fit them into my lathe)

GLyford,
I don't have any hubs like that around, unfortunately.

Cord,
I have the lower "A" arms from the old quads front end, and I have come up with a way to use them and the coil over shocks that came with them. A lot of my design ideas are going to be based on the wheel/axle configuration I end up with.

As of right now, I am thinking of basically a 2 prong fork, as a sub-frame under the main one, made from my 1 7/8" tubing. The "handle" of the fork, will be the tongue of the trailer. I plan on mounting brackets at the rear and top of the 2 fork "tines" that will connect to a bearing that will be mounted on the main frame, and act as my pivot point, with a latch up front like you described. The pivot point will be center of the main frame for ease of tilting without a hoist or winch.

The suspension and axle will be connected to the sub frame (the fork) allowing the wheels to be centered at a point 60% from the front, for better towing.

Now to find those darn hubs......