Auger Technique

TerryinMD · Aug 6, 2002

Mike,

I forgot to mention that on the JD4100, it has an electronic clutch for the PTO's. I believe it's the same for all of the JD compacts.

That must be a sight to see you jugglilng the clutch and the 3pt hitch to get the auger centered on the target. /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif

We feel your pain. After reading this thread, it appears that putting in fencing is a long term project. Take your time and before you know it you'll be done. And the pace may promote some help from your better half. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Good luck.

Terry

gbirky · Aug 6, 2002

Hey Terry,
We're practically neighbors. I live south of Funkstown very close to the prison complex in the Roxbury Hills development, somtimes better known as the Rocks-buried Hills. We had our house built about 5 years ago, and when I went to put in the mailbox, I had an area about 5'x5' all dug up just trying to go down deep enough to get the mailbox post in a foot and a half.

We have 2.5 acres with about 3/4 acre in yard and vegetable garden. The rest is wooded with mostly mature hardwoods. Much of the lot has rock outcroppings, including part of our yard.

Greg

Bird · Aug 6, 2002

chipping hammer

Miniature jack hammer; dandy little tool, but I hadn't seen the bits that long; bet that works great, but a hundred cfm compressor was a little overkill, wasn't it?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif The only ones I ever worked on (Chicago Pneumatic) were rated for 23 to 30 cfm, but could be used with a lot less if you worked real slow./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Rick Jay · Aug 6, 2002

Mike,

Sounds like the same technique I use. I would recommend a 12" bit, will probably help with most of the rocks and speed things up quite a bit. I had a similar situation on our property. Even with the 12" auger, I still had to remove an occasional rock by hand. Most holes probably took only about 5 minutes, but there was an occasional troublemaker. One hole had a 12" wide rock at a depth just about the length of my arm. It took a long time (3 hours or so) to free that one up and pull that sucker out of the hole.

If you're going to be doing a lot of these, I would recommend puchasing a larger auger. It should spit out a lot of those rocks and it's easier to work in a larger hole to remove any real stubborn rocks.

Good Luck,

Rick

wroughtn_harv · Aug 7, 2002

Morning Mike,

If your shear bolts can take the pressure I'd try just letting the auger do the work. I know it feels like it's tearing the tractor and you up when you're doing it but it's been my experience that the auger will do it's job. It just has to be given some time to do it.

BTW count your blessings. Take the time to read Don's (centex) thread on his holes. He's going through solid rock. And there are the folks in southern California right up next to the foothills who have what I consider the worst digging scenarios of all. They have sand with rocks, lots of rocks. When you dig in sand the trick is to water the hole before and as you go. That slows down the caving in of the sides. Now just imagine hitting rocks and what that causes. So count your blessings. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

So as your sucking air and wondering why or why you ever started this project, think, "this is fun. It could be worse." /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

TerryinMD · Aug 7, 2002

Hey neighbor,

Well, it sounds as though you own a typical patch of Washington County land. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

I believe that your subdivision is off of Alt Rt 40 is that not correct.

We have a bunch of rock outcroppings and since we're near the river, we have lots of small stones and rocks buried beneath the soil. I'm still trying to figure out the mating cycle of those dang rocks. Seems like more and more grow each year!! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

You probably have read my profile and we have 3 acres about half wooded and the other half cleared for grass and our large garden. We sell at the Sheperdstown Farmers Market.

Terry

MikePA · Aug 7, 2002

I know it feels like it's tearing the tractor and you up when you're doing 
It sure does. My 'problem' is the unexpected 'ping' when the shear bolt does it's job /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif. The auger can be merrily bouncing along then all of a sudden something in the holes grabs the auger and poof, an instant 5 minute break to replace a shear bolt.

my experience that the auger will do it's job. It just has to be given some time to do it.


I've noticed there are different types of augers. Since I bought a package deal, I just took the 9" auger that was attached. I have no idea whether it's the best auger for the soil I'm digging in. Any recommendations?

I've read centex's posts. Yikes. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif I do feel lucky.

MikePA · Aug 12, 2002

If your shear bolts can take the pressure I'd try just letting the auger do the work. I know it feels like it's tearing the tractor and you up when you're doing it but it's been my experience that the auger will do it's job. It just has to be given some time to do it.

A big Thank You to w_h. I tried this technique this weekend and it worked like a charm (was there ever any doubt? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif). The auger bounced around a bit, but I let it chew for a while slowly lowering the 3ph as appropriate. In the same time it took me to dig three holes last weekend, I dug 7 this weekend, while breaking the same number of shear bolts. So, my holes/shear bolt ratio more than doubled! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

wroughtn_harv · Aug 12, 2002

I'm glad it worked out better for you Mike. Most folks that know me understand that I'm one of the laziest critters on gawd's green earth. I will generally find the easiest way possible to do something. What sometimes surprises folks is that sometimes just doing it is the easiest way./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif