Axle replacement options

[MillWeld]

My portable sawmill has a 3500 lb axle (2.375 inch dia) with brakes and 13 tires. Trouble is, the axle is bent on one side (see pic) presumably due to bouncing over roads over the last 12 years. I need advice on replacing it. Obviously a heavier one is needed or the present one straightened and beefed up. I prefer to go with a heavier one but a 5200 lb one will have a different brake mounting flange requiring new brake assemblies and therefore new wheels and tires also a very expensive modification. I would like to get a 2.375 inch axle but with a thicker wall, say ｼ? and with the same brake mounting flange and spindles so I don稚 have to replace anything else. I can weld and could put it together myself but I need a source for parts. I immediately thought of the expertise of TBN members for advice. Any suggestions?
Bob

 

[SPIKER]

First question how often do you move it and from where/distance?

If short trips once or twice a year maybe not worry much and replace tires as needed with free junkers.

If half dozen time a year then maybe fix it by using heavy jack and chaining bent end down under a heavy beam & chain. might need a bit of heat but could reinforce axle with some angle iron after it is straightened. notch it for the leave spring U bolts and by tacking it to the axle it reinforces it all.

3rd buy a all new replacement for couple hundred bucks from REDNECK or one of many places for trailer parts.

Mark

 

[BHD]

on my sons trailer we built an axel bender, and saved a lot of tires, over the years, (the trailer came from the factory with a bent axel they dropped in building it,

we had a old plow iron about 1"x3" inches and made a few loops of flat stock and the iron was filled with holes so we use a stubby 20 ton jack and have straighten a few axels,

pictures are of fords axel benders that is where we got the idea is from some old ford truck manuals,

on yours one could take it off and find a metal working shop and have it pressed back in a press,

then I would truss it a little,
a rod and a few blocks near the U bolts, or a piece of flat with the U bolts area notched out and just run it across the bottom of it a 3/8" by 2 1/2" flat welded under the axle.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I was pricing axles and parts a couple years ago. I determined that a total replacement with heavier was cheapest route. Got the axle, brakes, rims/tires, springs and hangers all for less than $500. Beefed up that old home made trailer so it was a 5000# trailer. I bought it a a local cargo trailer dealer that had parts and their own shop. I did my own work on this one.

Ron

 

[easygo]

Your sawmill probably weighs less then the rating of your current axle the problem is in the spring mounting points. They are supposed to be much closer to the hubs. BUT!!! It would prevent the proper access to the mill while sawing lumber and would be awful tippy to tow. I would go with a heavier axle or straighten and reinforce the current one.

 

[byronlj]

Just weld two plates with matching 4-bolt pattern to some pipe of the appropriate length and diameter.
Dave

 

[Gunny]

I'd just take the time to straighten it, then add some reinforcement to both sides of the axle (If it bent on one side, it could bend on the other side later on)

 

[MillWeld]

I would like to straighten and reinforce it as most of the replies indicate but the reinforcing part presents the issure of reducing the ground clearance. I have only 12" now and welding a notched plate on the underside will reduce clearance by the width of the plate. I guess I could plug weld a plate on one (or both) sides of the tube but that would not be a continuous weld.

I like making my own like byronlj said but welding the spindles exactly parallel to the tube is one-chance-to-get-it-right effort. Any tips on this?

SPIKER, I don't move the mill much but I hate not having my sawmill not in top shape - especially the towing due to potential danger.

easygo, you're right, the load is too much overhung but it has to be for safe towing.

 

[FredH]

Is there any way to weld brace on top of the axle by / behind the hub , then have the other end of brace angle up towards the actual frame of mill ?? ( directly above center of spring , can't see in your picture what is there due to cross member ) . Axle bent up , so rather than brace from below and lose clearance , I would try to get something on top after straightening it . As mentioned , with so much space between spring and hub , lots of leverage there , so if possible , come off top of axle back to frame .

Straightening it should be no problem , a pain but not a problem , Just depends on what tools and materials you have available .

Fred H.

 

[byronlj]

If you were to build another axle, why not slip a larger diameter pipe over the new one in the two weak points for reinforcement.
Dave