B or L series for MY needs

[cals400ex]

Hello,

I'm in the market for a tractor. I currently live in a subdivision and only have slightly less than a 1/2 acre. My house was built on a steep hill. I need to have a bunch of dirt (I have been quoted about $10,000 worth of fill dirt) to level off and taper the huge hill. So, my main use for the tractor will be moving dirt. I won't need to move it very far, but I need move a lot of it. I'll also use the tractor for landscaping, moving some rock, mulch, etc. This project will likely take me a year or two, so I'm not interested in renting equipment. I'd like to buy a used tractor and once I'm done with the project I would have the option to sell it if I have no need for it anymore. I have noticed that I can get an L series for as cheap, if not cheaper, than a B series. Would a B or L series suite me better? Is the resale value better on one over the other? How much more stable would a B series, if any, on hilly terrain? I appreciate your suggestions!

 

[nybirdman]

I like the "L" series,we have two in the family.I have operated a "B",capable but the I prefer the "L" for sure.

 

[TractorNH]

With that much to move I would go on craigslist and find an older full size backhoe like a Case or a Deere for $6-8K, do the project and then sell it when your done and buy the B series then. While the L might work for what you're doing I suspect the size L you're looking for will be too small to be efficient moving that much dirt but too big for your general landscaping activities when you're done with your project.

 

[4570Man]

As long as the truck dumps it where it goes spreading dirt isn’t hard. Either tractor is capable of doing it faster than a single truck can bring it. Now if you’re carrying the dirt in the bucket the time for the job increases significantly. I don’t disagree with the backhoe idea but $6-8k backhoes are worn out junk.

 

[jeff9366]

Hello,

1) I'm in the market for a tractor. I live in a subdivision and have less than a 1/2 acre.

2) My house was built on a steep hill. I need to move a bunch of dirt to level off and taper the huge hill. So, my main use for the tractor will be moving dirt. I won't need to move it very far, but I need move a lot of it. I'll also use the tractor for landscaping, moving some rock, mulch, etc. This project will likely take me a year or two.

3) I'd like to buy a used tractor and once I'm done with the project I would have the option to sell it if I have no need for it anymore. I have noticed that I can get an L series for as cheap, if not cheaper, than a B series. Would a B or L series suite me better? Is the resale value better on one over the other? How much more stable would a B series, if any, on hilly terrain?

The work you described would be more easily and safely accomplished by a Skid Steer. A tracked skid steer (compact track loader or 'CTL') will be more stable than a wheeled skid steer. As Skid Steers have the engine in the rear, they are much more stable lifting loads with the FEL and have heavier lift capacities.
VIDEO: Messick's | Review of Kubota SSV65 Skid Loaders - YouTube

1) I live on a 1/2 acre. Roughly 1/4 acres without the house footprint. A Kubota BX or B series should be ample. Both will fit in most residential garages. Some Kubota L series will fit in a typical garage, most will not. For many, minimizing storage space would be a priority consideration.

2) Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than level land operation. Tractors optimized for hill work have liquid installed in the rear tires rather than air. "Loaded" tires are filled 75% to capacity with liquid, which lowers the tractor's center-of-gravity, making a tractor more stable and increasing rollover resistance.

Even optimized for hills front engine tractors are inherently unstable. The small front wheels, which allow tractors to turn sharply, and the large rear wheels, which provide pulling power, just do not provide good balance except on level ground.

Safe hillside operation requires four wheel drive (4-WD). Tractors have brakes only on the rear wheels. When going down hill, tractor weight distribution shifts forward, decreasing rear tire grip. With 4-WD engaged tractor feigns four wheel braking. Without 4-WD engaged, on a steep slope, an uncontrolled descent may occur.

3) These questions can only be answered on a tractor by tractor basis.



You have not listed your location as part of your TBN PROFILE. Your altitude may change your tractor requirements. Someone near you may notify you of a good used tractor for sale. This happens regularly.

 

[Thomas]

For what you got plan etc. I would go w/the B.
L has better footing and wider but the B should sell quicker than the L.

 

[cals400ex]

I'm not sure how a backhoe would be beneficial with this type of work?

 

[TractorNH]

I don’t disagree with the backhoe idea but $6-8k backhoes are worn out junk.

My point is that if he buys one in this price range it should work better for his project than a SCUT or CUT and he should be able to sell it when he's done for about what he paid for it. Then he can buy the right size tractor for maintaining his 1/2 acre of land.

 

[Fallon]

A L is going to be marginal for that much dirt moving & to big for 1/2 acre. As others have said, rent the right big machine for the job. A big skidsteer or a big TBL (Tractor Backhoe Loader... big yellow backhoe).

Look at a small B or BX for ongoing stuff after the project is done. Unless you get it compacted in small lifts that much dirt will be settling for years. So there will me some ongoing smoothing efforts, or just live with things being not quite smooth.

 

[Fallon]

I知 not sure how a backhoe would be beneficial with this type of work?

The hoe on the back is just ballast fir this work. The big industrial machine with a huge loader is the point.

 

[woody]

I might of missed it but where are you located, and is there someone close by you could check out a B or L tractor. I have a B26 and use it more than my L45 just because of the size.

 

[cals400ex]

This will be an extended project, probably over a year or two. So, I'll only be moving one or two semi's full of dirt at a time. This is why I think a B or a L2501 will be able to get the job done.....maybe I'm completely wrong.

I realize the dirt will settle over the years. That is one reason why I'll be extending the project. I'll move a little bit of dirt, smooth it, and go from there.

Can the L2501 fit in a normal sized garage with the ROPS down?

I don't have a problem getting a ballast box if needed. But whatever I get, I'd like it to fit in my normal sized garage door.

 

[Baby Grand]

A 40 HP L series (with Top-N-Tilt) and a front end loader plus a 6 to 7' box blade on the back would be my go-to configuration.
You can drag a fair amount of fill in the BB while you carry a bucket full in the FEL.
A good quality, medium to heavy duty BB will give you a lot of the ballast needed for safe operation with those heavy FEL loads.
The BB will let you smooth & contour on your way back to the pile.
For what it can do and what it weighs, the BB is a really good value for what you aim to do.
When you're all done, resale should be pretty close to what you'd pay for it (if well maintained & used by yourself & previous owner).
It's hard to break a box blade ... although I'm sure someone on TBN has managed to do it.

If storage is a problem, a ShelterLogic type of shed should protect your investment until it's time to sell for an additional 10% or so.

 

[/pine]

FWIW...Typical height of a (residential) overhead door header is 7' finish off the slab...

 

[4570Man]

Spreading dirt isn’t hard. I spread 100 loads in my backyard with my L3240. I easily out worked the one dump truck hauling. A CTL or backhoe is way overkill for the job. That’s assuming you’re spreading not carrying. That’s way more work.

 

[Fallon]

I had a L3200 (identicle to the L2501 except for HP due to emissions)... It would fit in my shop & garage with the ROPS down. May or may not relate to you garage door height.

I excavated down 3-4' by 15-20' wide by maybe 70' long unburying the back of my barn with a box blade. It took me a couple days in total spread out over several weeks & weekends. I'd guess you could move a truck load or 2 of loose dirt across 1/2 an acre & spread it in a couple hours, maybe an hour. In that drawn out scenario a L could get the job done. A B could as well, but it would beat up & wear out the machine a fair bit faster, but to mention take a lot longer.

You may still want to consider doing this with the right sized (big) machine in one strike. You could get by with a smaller machine doing cleanup. You can often get free fill by the dozens of truckloads when somebody is excavating a basement or something. Single truck loads are harder to find or get expensive.

 

[cals400ex]

I live about 20 minutes from St. Louis, Mo.
Elevation wise, I haven't looked it up but I believe it is a little above sea level.
My garage door is a standard 7' door, and the lowest point is a hair under 7'1".

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

This project will likely take me a year or two.

Wife on board with that?

 

[4570Man]

I believe it will fit ropes down. My L3240 was 1/2” too tall to fit ropes up in a 8’ door.

 

[cals400ex]

Wife on board with that?

I'm not married. The house/land is mine.