B2320 DT - 400 hr self-service?

[Normal Bill]

I'm getting close to the 400 hours on my B2320 DT. I'm nervous about the transmission/hydraulic fluid change.

I like to do everything myself on all my vehicles as much as possible. But, I'm almost thinking about sending it to the dealer for this. Changing oil on a vehicle means quarts but this means gallons??!! It also seems so critical to the operation of the machine as it involves transmission, FEL, 3PT etc.

What do you think? Is it easy enough or is it better to send it out? I would appreciate any advice.

 

[AStanton]

It's not rocket science: go low and slow. Look at the factory recommended capacities for the fluids then refill using lower amounts. You are better off under-filling, then over filling. Start the tractor, let it run, then turn it off checking the levels.
It might be warming up in our neck of the woods soon. Buy the filters and fluids now, then wait for a day when it hits 50 degrees.
Good luck.

 

[sandyc]

It was -2 this morning! When you change the hst fluid make sure you pay attention to the drain plugs. If memory serves there are three. Some folks put red paint on the heads of the plugs so they can id them in the future.....sounds like a good idea but I forgot when I did mine. I use a mortar mixing trough I got at Lowes. There are/were two sizes..I got the larger one just to make sure the 4 gallons would not over flow the pan. Also it sits between the tires.
There are two filters for the hst. They are different sizes so pay attention to the ones you take off and match up the new ones to the old ones. Some folks have had problems with the filters being hard to get off as they were painted along with the engine. A strap filter wrench (large) will handle that. After I put on the filters and tightened up the plugs I added 3.5 gallons of super ud2 fluid, started the tractor and let it warm up at idle. After it warmed up I shut it off and checked the level and filled it to the top level. Oh, on the 2012 2620 there is no strainer to clean. Our transfer station takes the spent fluid which is a great help as 4 gallons is a bit much to dispose of.

Good luck and enjoy.

 

[Will_C]

If you change oil and filters on your cars, you can service your tractor. I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have always done those services on my 3 Kubotas. Follow the manual and take your time-you'll be fine.

Will

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

If you do it yourself one time and then have a dealer do it the next time you will be kicking yourself from then on for paying what they will charge. It's simple to do. They also don't have their highest paid mechanic do it unless they only have one mechanic. They usually have the trainee or new guy do it or other mechanics do it while working on other equipment.
As has been mentioned, get catch trays big enough to hold the amount coming out. The filters are installed by a gorilla so get ready to apply leverage to get them broke loose. Have dealer mark the filters to know for sure which is oil and which is hyd fluid. Look at some change it yourself threads here and go forth an conquer. It will also help you have a better understanding and relationship with your tractor.:thumbsup:

 

[Paystar]

It's very simple to do your service. But the owners and shop manuals don't give very precise details or pics. Here's what I found for draining the trans/hydro on my B2620HSD. Pic #1 is what both manuals correctly show.

Pic#2 is the 12mm I removed which is a gasketed drain plug. Manuals show you to remove the 14mm housing bolt which is just ahead of it.

Pic#3 and 4 are the 12mm drain on the right side. Again, manuals show it as that 14mm housing bolt to the right of the actual drain plug.
Pay attention to the gasket washers.....mine were painted on and didn't look like there was any, but one fell off into the drain pan as it was draining.

Pic 5 is the engine oil pan drain plug. Manual shows a double sump oil pan with two drains, mine only has a single with one plug.

 

[Paystar]

Here's a couple more pics of the 50 hour service. I just use a regular auto drain pan for the engine and front axle.
Just be careful threading the new engine oil filter back on so you don't cross thread it because the rad hose rubs on it. Not real bad, but it does add minor resistance.

And as you can see the trans/hydro filters are very easy to get at. I've heard stories of how tight some are on due to the paint, but mine came off easily.
I use the drain pan from an old dehumidifier for that. Had it for my diesel pickups.

Also note.......the owners manual says to just change trans/hydro filters at 50 hour first service and I see some people on here do leave the oil in. But the Shop manual says oil MUST be changed at 50 hours. And I wouldn't want to leave the break-in oil in there for 200 or 400 hours.

 

[Normal Bill]

I'm learning a lot already. Thank you all. I'm already experienced with oil change for this tractor. I've been right on schedule ( ....and I really love the way they packed the oil filter into an area where you're guaranteed to make a mess ... oh and trying to open the drain plug and get the oil to pour neatly through the hole in the loader subframe is a good time too)

Transmission/ hydraulic is what scares me the most.

 

[Normal Bill]

Thank you for the pictures Paystar.:thumbsup: This will be useful for me.

 

[Paystar]

What model is the DT billrjr? Is that the manual transmission? If so your drains may be different?