B2650 Question about Charging after Light Bar Install

[TMGT]

Even a larger dynamo would require a larger regulator and neither of which would be kubota parts, in that case an alternator would be your best bet anyways.

I have to believe it wouldn't take much to add an alternator, I don't have a wiring diagram but the hardest part would most likely be the jumper that replaces the regulator in the harness. Most likely it's th e same regulator Kubota has been using for years so I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to figure out.

Maybe a kit for a B2920 would be a starting point as they use the same engine as the B2650, then just compare the wiring diagrams.

Was really suprised Kubota didn't install standard an alternator or offer a upgrade kit for this model.

 

[varmint]

I wonder if an alternator from a similar sized Kubota could be mounted? If the alternator has the necessary charging regulator components build in, seems like it would be a fairly easy swap? You see them advertised on eBay often enough, and if you are keeping the original dynamo, then your warranty issues should be non-existent? I will stay tuned to learn from this thread! A quick search on eBay for Kubota B 2650 alternator yielded several at $65 with free shipping, which sounds reasonable? You may have to cobble a mounting bracket, if an expert says it would work?

 

[meos1]

Actually, how many times will you need the front and rear light on. If you are going forward you need the forward light. If you are working on the implement or backing up the rear light. If you use a treadle switch you can use a relay to automatically switch from front to back and only a rear on switch is needed to make sure you can have light without the treadle switch engaged in reverse. This solves your amp draw issue as you will not often require both the forward and reverse lights on.

 

[TMGT]

I was looking at the cheaper alternators on ebay, not sure of the quality though, the kit for a B2620 or 2920 should be a direct fit for the B2650 as far as the brackets go since they use the same series engine. The main thing would be the jumper harness required when you remove the regulator. I haven't looked into the 2650 charging system wiring yet but I have to believe it is pretty similar to previous models.

 

[KyleH]

Just ordered an alternator upgrade kit for a B2630 and going to see if it will work on my B2650 rops. Most likely get to trying it next week and can let you know how it went. Going by Kubota's parts site, it looks like it might fit without too much hassle. Either way, it can be wired up with a custom harness easy enough if the upgrade kit one doesn't work.

 

[sandyc]

I was faced with a similar situation a few years ago with my 2200. I used a battery tender to keep my battery charged until I used the tractor again. I got into the habit of plugging in my tractor after each use. I still do this today, even with my 3350....never had a problem with a dead battery....knock wood!

 

[chim]

With all the number manipulation used in describing LED lights it isn't easy to sort things out. Sellers want to impress potential customers with big numbers. For example, I saw an ad for a 126 Watt light bar that draws 5.5 amps. The math is 5.5A x 12V = 66 Watts. Where does the 126 watt figure come from? You get explanations like the 126 watts is how much power would be needed to make that amount of light with an incandescent lamp.

A more honest way of rating the light output would be in lumens, but if the sellers feel comfortable misrepresenting their product to promote sales, they would fudge those numbers anyway. The most reliable method of determining the load would be to run it through an ammeter. Most multimeters have the capability of measuring current values for the lights we use on tractors.

 

[PILOON]

Certainly agree with lumens, but that is a whole new world and requires a learning curve.
Mercury, Halogen, LED, Fluorescent all make it so complicated.
Then U need to add 'color' to the confusion.

But I'm learning. Slowly.

 

[vacman]

Thanks for the responses so far. This process seems a bit less intimidating than when I started. The mechanical side of a change seems the easier part to me. I would think one of those replacement alternators for a B2X20 should work. The 2920 uses the same engine and there is a ton of room where this would go. The electrical side is what I was unsure of. I did some research on that part. I found a youtube video that did a pretty good job explaining their differences and how to convert from old to new. This was on an old car but the principal would be the same I think. I like the idea of a kit because I think it would have specific wiring parts and instructions for the kubota systems. Kyle, I'm very interested in your results. Please do post your experience on how it turns out.
To address a couple of other points that came up in this discussion
1) yes I'm unhappy that Kubota doesn't put an alternator on as a standard or at the very least offer an upgrade kit specific to this model.
2) I don't know if I would NEED both sets of lights on or not but I tend to leave them both on when I'm using them. In actual use with my previous tractor, the OEM headlights would get left off quite a bit. The front facing lights cast enough light over the dash that I could see the gauges fine and the headlights just shine against the bucket so were not of much use anyway.
Ironically, I have no idea if my previous tractor lighting was within limits or not. Ignorance is bliss in that case. I used 3 - 55W halogens which were on for <1-2 hrs every time I plowed snow and never had any battery issues. That battery lasted 10 years before it needed replacement.
3) I looked up the specs of the lights I bought and it seems that 126W is what they draw. There are 42 lights at 3W/ea. and the lumen rating is 8800-12600. They didn't have any other numbers in the fine print that would tell me otherwise. These specs come from there description on line because there was no printed material that came with the lights at all.
4) Using a battery tender never really occurred to me. My previous tractor was used 4-5 hours most every week to mow which probably kept things charged. This tractor will not be used that much so a tender might be a good way to insure the battery always has the correct amount of charge. Using the timer for 6-8 hrs daily is a great idea too. In fact, if I used a tender I'm pretty sure the alternator might not be needed. I don't work for more than a couple hours at night when I do so putting it back on the charger when done will build the charge back up.

Thanks for all the great feed back.

Merry Christmas to all.
John

 

[KyleH]

Installed the 40 amp alternator upgrade kit from a B2630 today. Everything bolted up and plugged in as if it was made for the B2650. Tested it out and was charging at 14.4 volts, and no battery light on while running. Took about an hour start to finish, you basically only need 10 and 12MM sockets and wrenches, and a Phillips screwdriver. If I were to do another one it would go much faster. I did need one flat and one lock washer that wasn't in the kit, could have been missing or may have been on a B2630 that you would reuse. I happened to have some extras from the rear remote kit anyways.