B2910 front wheel snapped off!

[hosspuller]

I have no idea! What's RTV? I have never done anything like this and was hoping some one could tell me what to expect, if I need any special tools and how to go about it.

RTV = "Room Temperature Vulcanizing" also known as silicon sealant :laughing:

 

[kco]

Either it is a design flaw or we are beating up our tractors , I will be a little more careful from here on out.

Good tip, and a good reminder to consider how we can magnify stress to a machine depending how we use it.

As mentioned before in this thread, I think the main cause was pulling in reverse. And if pulling from a raised bucket it transfers even more stress to the front end.

 

[chopped]

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...matex_Hi-Temp_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Sealant.htm


How to Use RTV Sealant | eHow.com

 

[dlabrie]

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...matex_Hi-Temp_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Sealant.htm


How to Use RTV Sealant | eHow.com

Thanks for the info.

So, I should use RTV in place of the old gasket or along with the old gasket?

 

[crazyal]

I like to use RTV with a gasket. I think if it was me I would pull the least amount apart in the woods as possible, just block it up so it can't fall, and take the parts back to the garage/ shop to work on. I would clean everything up as best I could. I think I would get the tractor back to the house and then clean the other side up as best as you can to see if it looks like it has cracks. If you don't mind spending the money and/ or the new axle looks stronger I would probably break down and do the other side just so I wouldn't have to do another woods repair.

 

[deminin]

I just spotted this thread. I had a bearing freeze and spin inside the front axle on my B2910 a couple of years ago, and wound up rebuilding it myself....new axle housing, bearings, etc. Luckily, I had the foresight to buy a factory shop manual when I bought the tractor....so I had some good info before I tackled this project.

If I were you, and I couldn't get the tractor back to the house/shop, I would remove the Bevel Gear Case....4 bolts, and an O-ring...and take this assembly back to the shop for a cleanup and rebuild. According to my parts breakdown, it looks like you broke PN 32721-57323. With a parts breakdown, you should be able to replace the broken axle, and then take the assembly back to the tractor for reinstall. Cleanliness will be very important during this job, as any dirt in the assembly will eventually cause further troubles.
This is a substantial repair, and doing it in the woods will be a real job...especially if you drop a part in the dirt, and lose it.
As a final tip, the B2910 had Super UDT in the front axle. Kubota says either SUDT, or 80/90 axle grease can be used. When I got mine rebuilt, I refilled it with 80/90 lube, and some 300 hours later it is still doing good. I don't care for transmission fluid in gears that are subjected to a heavy load....just my personal opinion.

Good Luck!

 

[dlabrie]

I just spotted this thread. I had a bearing freeze and spin inside the front axle on my B2910 a couple of years ago, and wound up rebuilding it myself....new axle housing, bearings, etc. Luckily, I had the foresight to buy a factory shop manual when I bought the tractor....so I had some good info before I tackled this project.

If I were you, and I couldn't get the tractor back to the house/shop, I would remove the Bevel Gear Case....4 bolts, and an O-ring...and take this assembly back to the shop for a cleanup and rebuild. According to my parts breakdown, it looks like you broke PN 32721-57323. With a parts breakdown, you should be able to replace the broken axle, and then take the assembly back to the tractor for reinstall. Cleanliness will be very important during this job, as any dirt in the assembly will eventually cause further troubles.
This is a substantial repair, and doing it in the woods will be a real job...especially if you drop a part in the dirt, and lose it.


As a final tip, the B2910 had Super UDT in the front axle. Kubota says either SUDT, or 80/90 axle grease can be used. When I got mine rebuilt, I refilled it with 80/90 lube, and some 300 hours later it is still doing good. I don't care for transmission fluid in gears that are subjected to a heavy load....just my personal opinion.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the advice. I ordered the FRONT AXLE SHAFT , BOTH BEARINGS, a SEAL AND
A COLLAR SET. That was on Monday, still waiting!

If I take it apart at the Bevel Gear Case, Should I get a new O-ring for the reinstall? The Kubota store is 2hrs round trip. I want to make sure I have everything.

I have always used 80/90 gear oil in the front.

 

[Don87]

Thanks for the advice. I ordered the FRONT AXLE SHAFT , BOTH BEARINGS, a SEAL AND
A COLLAR SET. That was on Monday, still waiting!

If I take it apart at the Bevel Gear Case, Should I get a new O-ring for the reinstall? The Kubota store is 2hrs round trip. I want to make sure I have everything.

I have always used 80/90 gear oil in the front.

It's always best to replace any gaskets or o-rings when rebuilding.
But with that said, your local NAPA, or other auto parts store may be able to fix you up with the o-ring...........I would try there first.

Take the old one with you.

EDIT: And if using RTV sealant on the gasket...............Put on a very light coat, spread with your fingertip, on the gasket..........just enough to see.
Less if metal to metal.

 

[dlabrie]

Thanks for all of the info. You guys are great!. I will take pictures and post my efforts.

 

[hill]

Use the bucket to raise the front end, drive a wooden wedge in between the axle and the frame on the unbroken side, raise bucket and drive tractor out of the woods.

This is sheer genius - thanks much, 638, not sure if I'd have EVER thought to do that in such a pinch. Make a three-wheeler out of it. LoL! Even my wife thought it was clever, and that's sayin' a lot!

Dlabre, don't you just love how this kind of thing seems to always happen in the most difficult location? I've got almost five acres of woods behind my house all overgrown and hasn't seen more than animal traffic in years, maybe forever.
I took my B7800 up into there to brushhog some sort of paths through it and no sooner did I work my way about 100 yards into the worst of it when I had a flat rear tire. A filled tire, natch. I had to lug my farm jack all the way and fight to roll the wheel out of there to get it down to the local tire shop, and then do the whole hike again to be able to retrieve the tractor. I'll likely let those woods stay natural now- I'm too old for that kind of gruntwork.

 

[deminin]

I would get new O-rings. You will be taking a lot of stuff apart in a rebuild like this, and a few extra dollars for any O-rings, etc., may keep you from having to go back into the unit to stop a leak. When I rebuilt my front end, I got extra small parts, and replaced all the O-rings and bearings, etc., while I was in there. I have several usable parts left over, but the way things go for me is if I have extras on hand, the chances are, I won't need them. However, if I try to cut corners, I usually have to redo the job. When I blew the front axle, the dealer shot me a price of about $1800, and I spent about $650, so I'm still way ahead.

If you don't have a factory service manual, you might want to get one....I think I paid about $80 for mine. Living out in the boondocks, I hate to take anything to the dealer which is about 40 miles away, if I can avoid doing so. However, if you have a parts breakdown, that should get you pretty close. About the only thing you might have to be concerned about are any clearances in the bevel gears.

I noticed some references to using RTV when putting things back together, and I would agree. I like to use the Blue RTV that is sold for use in water pump rebuilds, etc. It forms a good seal, and never really hardens, so it won't create a problem if you have to go back into the unit again. Use just enough to coat the O-rings, and mating surfaces, without any excess getting into the lube.

Also, after you get the bad side fixed, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to take the other wheel off, and clean the other side real good, and look for any evidence of damage or cracks on the other axle. You might even put the tractor on stands, fire it up, and have someone run the HST, while watching the axle closely....looking for any wobble, etc.

Just take your time, and you should be ok....it's not that hard for someone who has a set of metric wrenches/sockets, good mechanic skills, and some patience.

 

[Alan L.]

I've got a B2710 with 880 hours, I wonder if I should be worrying about this?

 

[rswyan]

I've got a B2710 with 880 hours, I wonder if I should be worrying about this?

I have a B2910 with 1205 hours .... and I am concerned ..... this isn't the first report of this on TBN by any stretch if memory serves me correctly.

 

[BeezFun]

I've got a B2710 with 880 hours, I wonder if I should be worrying about this?

If I worried about everything I've ever read on this forum that broke on a B2710 I'd spend all my time worrying and no time tractoring. I think it makes sense to do an annual inspection and bolt tightening exercise for any tractor. After that, it's the luck of the draw.

 

[dlabrie]

OK, I decided to get the tractor out of the woods. I got my neighbor and his tractor to help. I thought we were going to be able to hook my front loader bucket to his back hoe and drive out...nope. Back hoe wasn't strong enough to lift it. (never thought of dropping the loader and ballast until too late) So we hooked my bucket to his bucket and he started backing me out. I could steer a little with my brakes and I used enough forward motion to stay with him until....... I slid sideways into a tree.. long story short, we removed the loader and ballast. and hooked his bucket to my front frame and painstakingly backed out of the woods , down the road and into my garage. This only took 3 hours!

Now here is my big worry, and I hope someone can settle my mind. Just as we were turning into my drive (everything is gravel) my rear wheels locked up. I had to put it into neutral for the last 10 yards. Did I do something to my transmission? While he was pulling me I was keeping up under my own power and wheel braking to stay with him. Please tell me I didn't do something really stupid.

Here is a picture of her as she waits for the parts to arrive.

Thanks,
David

 

[dlabrie]

If you don't have a factory service manual, you might want to get one....I think I paid about $80 for mine. Living out in the boondocks, I hate to take anything to the dealer which is about 40 miles away, if I can avoid doing so. However, if you have a parts breakdown, that should get you pretty close. About the only thing you might have to be concerned about are any clearances in the bevel gears.

I have been looking on line for a B2910hsd repair manual and have come up with zip. Does your manual have an ISBN?

 

[dlabrie]

Is this the shop manual I need?

 

[Steve HEF]

Here's a tip for anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation: Wrap a chain around the axle on the broken side and then around the tractor frame, or in this case the loader frame. This will prevent the axle from pivoting and you can drive the machine SLOWLY to wherever you need. It's the same theory as the block of wood wedged but uses something everyone should carry on their tractor.

 

[dlabrie]

Here's a tip for anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation: Wrap a chain around the axle on the broken side and then around the tractor frame, or in this case the loader frame. This will prevent the axle from pivoting and you can drive the machine SLOWLY to wherever you need. It's the same theory as the block of wood wedged but uses something everyone should carry on their tractor.

I wish I had thought of that. The wedge of wood didn't work. Maybe because I had left the loader on.

 

[dlabrie]

I have gotten the nuts off of the gear case cover but I can't budge it. It is sealed with some sort of sealant. I have tried to get a screw driver in there with no luck and I am affraid to hit it too hard. Anyone have some advice on getting this cover off?
Thanks

I got it... I found a slot to get a screwdriver in and was able to pry it off.