Buying Advice B2920 - Newbie Planned Purchase Help

[ror105]

Well I can tell you I bought the b2320 with a lot of the items you mentioned and I will agree with some of the other posters comments:

1. It is 88 and humid; taking the MMM off now to put the BH on. I in good shape and I took a break twice now. It is a PITA.

2. Love the tractor; always run out of traction before power, and that is less than the 29.

3. 3 pt comes off to install BH, again on a hot day.

4. Get a wider bucket for the loader. Most of the time run out of room before power.

5. R4 tires in mid eventually load up; again traction issues. But they do not tear up my grass and are a good tire for most dirt and snow.

6. One thing I would not buy again; front hydraulic plow. A lot of $ and used once. I need some big snow this winter to justify to myself spending all that $.

7. I wouldn't pay for the alt upgrade if you don't think you'll need it. I ended up putting aux LED lights on anyhow. Stock dynamo would have been sufficient.

8. Chains are a must. Go with 2 link.

I have not regretted buying this tractor one bit, 9 months old and it works like a champ.

-rob

 

[oldballs]

So far I've found that the MMM on my B2620 is easy to install and remove without doing the drive over thing. Although there hasn't been much mowing going on around here due to the drought, I've attached and detached it twice on concrete without difficulty. Turning the scalp wheels sideways, dropping the drive shaft, a couple "L-pins" and the front link frees it up so as to roll right out sideways. Did I miss something here? Heck, I'm 80 years old and 5'4" and it worked okay for me. Yet there was no backhoe to deal with however. Of course, then one has to have a place to park the MMM. I guess that's the fun of having all this stuff....kinda like a chess game.

 

[ror105]

The pain isnt removing the deck; it's the 3 pt removal afterward and then putting the backhoe on. Probably only 20 minutes or so, but it seems like a long while when you only get an hot or two here and there. Wife and kids take up the rest of my free time.

And it seems like I have done this at least 3 or 4 times a month lately.

 

[ror105]

The pain isnt removing the deck; it's the 3 pt removal afterward and then putting the backhoe on. Probably only 20 minutes or so, but it seems like a long while when you only get an hot or two here and there. Wife and kids take up the rest of my free time.

And it seems like I have done this at least 3 or 4 times a month lately.

Sorry meant to say "an hour or two".

 

[Howard92]

I have a couple of questions about the BH subframe and removing the 3 pt hitch.

Removing the 3 pt hitch - I assume that it is only required to be removed when installing the BH. Is that just removing the two lower arms and the one upper arm? Is that removing pins & clips or nuts & bolts?

BH Subframe – I assume that I will be leaving the BH subframe on the tractor all the time? Does having the subframe on the tractor cause any other problems? Like making it harder to install other implements like a MMM or rotary cutter? Does the subframe greatly reduce ground clearance?

Thank again for all help,
Howard

 

[moriboy]

The subframe always stays in place. The design is pretty good, and there really isn't any clearance issues when using the 3 point. Putting the three point arms on and off does seem to get kind of old sometimes, but it is not difficult by any means. I am in the middle of converting my bh76 to fit my new m7040. It's going to look funny, but having a 3 point backhoe for quick jobs will be nice.

 

[rswyan]

So far I've found that the MMM on my B2620 is easy to install and remove without doing the drive over thing.

I was really concerned about driving over it initially - and avoided doing it for years .... after doing it, I found that there was little reason for concern.

Although there hasn't been much mowing going on around here due to the drought, I've attached and detached it twice on concrete without difficulty. Turning the scalp wheels sideways, dropping the drive shaft, a couple "L-pins" and the front link frees it up so as to roll right out sideways. Did I miss something here? Heck, I'm 80 years old and 5'4" and it worked okay for me.

Try doing it with a 72" deck on old, cracked asphalt .... smooth concrete would be a cakewalk ....

Even so, reaching up to connect the PTO shaft is problematic .... and I have fairly long arms.

 

[ror105]

I agree; I have all the leftover mud on my garage floor that has cracks as well. Seems like i sweep it out often but one stone and the deck stopsI usually use the loader to lift the tractor and then slide the deck underneath.

Ditto on the PTO shaft; last few times the collar wouldn't stay open and then the shaft wouldn't telescope out far enough. It is just uncomfortable to lay on the deck and reach up under there.

But again these are just silly gripes; tractor is a well engineered product that I am very pleased with.

-rob

 

[Howard92]

Since we are planning on keeping our old JD 48" lawn mower for the close in stuff, I have considered just getting a 60" or 72" finish mower instead of the MMM.

Thanks,
Howard

 

[rswyan]

I agree; I have all the leftover mud on my garage floor that has cracks as well. Seems like i sweep it out often but one stone and the deck stops I usually use the loader to lift the tractor and then slide the deck underneath.

If that one stone happens to be where you just stuck your knee while kneeling down it can be a real treat as well ....

Ditto on the PTO shaft; last few times the collar wouldn't stay open and then the shaft wouldn't telescope out far enough. It is just uncomfortable to lay on the deck and reach up under there.

I'll sometimes go up underneath from the rear .... it works, but I'd just prefer to avoid crawling around under the tractor for normal install and removal of attachments .... my head - which I often bang into something - thanks me ....