Grading B3030 Rear Blade (& B2630)

[garc]

Thanks bandit67 for your post on B3030 ROPS light project which after looking at you attachments leads to this new thread.

First off I must preface all this with the fact that I have no experience with the use of standard rear blades esp. in snow (my box blade/scraper would only jam with snow). I have been researching on the internet, with ag friends and local dealers. The rear blade appears as a deceptively simple device. Who knew that effective implementation could be so complex! I realize that I won't really know until the metal ($$$) hits the ground.

I am including previous posts by my self and bandit67 regarding my rear blade education that began in the above thread.

Q: I have been looking at the Land Pride RB2572 for my B3030 as well and would appreciate any hindsight you can offer now that you have some experience with it on your B3030. i.e. How does it work in snow and how do you set it up for snow? Also, I see that it's 100 lbs. heavier than the RB1572. How does the extra weight affect it's performance?

Reply from bandit67: Regarding the RB2572, I haven't yet moved more than 6" of snow with it. It is rated as too big for our machines, but I wanted the 17" high moldboard as opposed to the 14" moldboard on the 1572 because of snow removal duties. I also like the extra weight back there.

The majority of my use for it will be snow removal, so I figured that the extra beef would be fine as long as I wasn't doing too much dirt work. I have however, put more dirtworking time on the blade than snow clearing time, and haven't yet had an issue with the 3030 being able to handle it for dirt work.

One thing to keep in mind is that you will have to set the 3pt hitch up a little higher so that the blade frame is parallel to the ground to minimize or avoid constant adjustments when angling the blade to either side. Because of the extra 3" of blade height, the frame sits up higher than the 1572, so the lower links need to be higher up when the blade is on the ground. It also impacts ground clearance when raised, but I've got it set now at about 9" of clearance when raised, and with the frame parallel to the ground so that I can swing the blade angle to either side. To do that, I put the top link in the bottom hole which is supposed to be for the Landpride Quick Hitch setup.

The 2572 is much beefier than the 1572, and should be a little better suited to welding more steel so that I can add a hydraulic angling piston at some point. I don't necessarily think that the 1572 would be all that bad, but I don't like when you're moving snow and it falls over the top of the blade so you have to go back and make another pass to get the drive/road completely clean.

Reply from garc: Sounds good so far Ed!

The LP RB2572 is the same weight as my Kubota 7554 box scraper so tractor balance feel would remain the same (I did tip it on it's side once between implement changes while trying to do a quick assist on a berm in my wife's garden and forgetting that I was out of balance).

As always answers lead to more questions. Do you have the LP skid shoes on your blade and are they effective on a gravel driveway?

Regarding tilt with C&C's Top-N-Tilt I am planning to allow freedom of tilt by swapping to a floating rear remote. Kubota offers two double acting RR's (B7304 & B7305 w float) but there is only room for the floating function model in the second position (outside valve).

Next question: I see frequent references to offset and considering that a 6 ft. blade at 30º without offset extends 4" either side of the B3030's tread width, what does all this mean?

Chears, Gar

 

[dex3361]

I use a 7 foot blade for clearing what little snow we get around here. I also have top and tilt on my rear of the tractor and I have the float detent in the middle position of my remotes. If you have 2 remotes (4 conections) then you can insert the float detent valve in the middle of the 2 you have and have a total of 3 for operating 3 cylinders. The offset is where you are able to kick the blade to the left or right of the tractor by about a 1 foot or 2 and this is handy for pulling ditch lines or for kicking the snow further over than you can drive. Hope this has been of some help.

 

[bandit67]

Do you have the LP skid shoes on your blade and are they effective on a gravel driveway?

I do not have skid shoes. I have considered them, but have never used them on rear blades in the past. Only used skid shoes on front blades, and they didn't seem to help much on gravel. Plus, we have a pretty good setup on our 3pt with the Position Control and the adjustable stop, so I've been using those features to control how much the blade digs down. I may order a set of skid shoes for next season, but thought I'd see how things go this season on the asphalt, gravel, and dirt drives/roads that I have to plow this year.

Next question: I see frequent references to offset and considering that a 6 ft. blade at 30ｺ without offset extends 4" either side of the B3030's tread width what does all this mean?

Offset angle feature angles the entire frame of the rear blade, which means you end up with the blade not sitting directly behind both sets of wheels. Offset angle feature comes on the 35 series and larger. The blade offset feature allows you to reposition the blade on it's mount on the frame. I had tool-less blade offset on my last rear blade - tried it a couple of times, but never found a good use for it when removing snow. There could be a couple of instances where it might be useful, but not regular enough to justify choosing that feature, in my experience. The 15 series blade offset requires unbolting the blade to move it. The 6' blade with it's full angle implemented, still clears past both rear wheels.

The other feature the RBT1572 offers is tilt - I had that before, and rarely used it - the tilt angles were just too much to work properly. I might have been able to use it a few times during ditch cleaning, but the B3030's ratcheting lower link adjuster has worked just fine in those instances.

Again, if snow removal is your primary use, I'd recommend the taller blade of the RB2572 to minimize snow falling over the top of the blade. I had a 12" or 14" blade on my subcompact, and found it to be a bit too short for big snowstorms. If you are doing significant amounts of dirt work, then the shorter 14" blade of the RB1572 might be better suited. The RB1572 would work just fine in most snow removal situations.

It's one of those "6 of one, a half-dozen of the other" type scenarios as to which blade to choose.

 

[garc]

Thanks Randall. Looks like your RB when angled at 30º without offset sticks out 5" either side of the rear wheels. The rest may be a little like apples and oranges considering your more substantial tractor. My rear remotes are factory which only allows two. I'm not too keen on any more clutter on my tiny bit of tractor real estate. I'm looking at a manual RB without hydraulics or manual tilt so that why I'm leaning toward the factory RR float idea. My quandary regarding offset is really about necessity: can I clear my 400' down hill driveway without offset? You see, my little tractor won't pull snow uphill and I'd have to switch offsets from side to side.

Cheers, Gar

 

[dex3361]

Thanks Randall. Looks like your RB when angled at 30ｺ without offset sticks out 5" either side of the rear wheels. The rest may be a little like apples and oranges considering your more substantial tractor. My rear remotes are factory which only allows two. I'm not too keen on any more clutter on my tiny bit of tractor real estate. I'm looking at a manual RB without hydraulics or manual tilt so that why I'm leaning toward the factory RR float idea. My quandary regarding offset is really about necessity: can I clear my 400' down hill driveway without offset? You see, my little tractor won't pull snow uphill and I'd have to switch offsets from side to side.

Cheers, Gar

I would not get to big of blade because the wider the blade the farther it sets back from the tractor and will tend to have a tail wagging the dog sort of thing. The type of offset that I was talking about swings left or right and requires no bolt work just pull pens. My tractor remotes are factory remotes but I am not familiar with what options are available for yours.

 

[garc]

Thanks Ed. Sounds like you are getting results without offsetting the blade and that is good news for me as you can see in the post reply to Randall (400' down hill driveway).

Again, if snow removal is your primary use, I'd recommend the taller blade of the RB2572 to minimize snow falling over the top of the blade.

I'm with you on this not forgetting the rear weight my reflexes are used to (I tend to change vectors quickly esp. with the HST).

Cheers, Gar

 

[garc]

Again, if snow removal is your primary use, I'd recommend the taller blade of the RB2572 to minimize snow falling over the top of the blade.

Ed, can you tell me the US list price of the RB2572? Can't seem to find it on line. Thanx, Gar

 

[bandit67]

Prices I got ranged from $695-$800. The RB1572 range was $600-$700. There are much cheaper units out there, but I paid more to get the matching orange paint.

I had a Midwest blade before, but they stopped selling them here in Colorado, so I had to go with another brand. I also had a Landpride tiller, and it was very good quality, so I decided to go with the Landpride blade. Being able to get it painted orange and included in the new tractor financing pretty much made it a no-brainer.

 

[garc]

Prices I got ranged from $695-$800. The RB1572 range was $600-$700.

North of the 49th we can add $100 or so to US prices and I thought my dealer quoted me a little high on the phone. Maybe he was looking at the tilt model. Our RB1572 is around $750 which sounds about right. The RB2572 was quoted at $1230 which sounds like the "T". Thanks for the prices Ed; I'm now thinking that the RB2572 should be under $900 CDN so I'll look further into this.

As you probably already know, I'm all over the orange paint. Cost me $100 + a can of paint from Kubota but what a look on my 4N1! I'll be thinking about painting the black blade too.

 

[bandit67]

I'll be thinking about painting the black blade too.

You do realize that Landpride now offers it's implements painted in Kubota orange, don't you?

Look at the pics of my rear blade in my link below to see it in the orange color from the factory.

 

[garc]

I'm with you on that. Your pics got me taking a second look at Land Pride a few days ago but I'm thinking the black blade feels a little left out in the field, so to speak.

 

[ronjhall]

I have used Fibered Aluminum Roof Coating
for many years on my barn roofs. No leaks after 25 & 36 years. The coating is thick enough to seal nail and other small holes.
Last time I bought the coating at Home Depot it was around $30 for 5 gallons.

 

[denmansoft]

GAR:
What kind of paint did you get(spray, gal?) and where? Island tractor in Duncan?

 

[garc]

The paint is Kubota 1 qt acrylic enamel p# 70000-73712 ($50) from Island Tractor in Duncan. I had a local body shop spray the new 4N1 (disassembled) after I welded on the chain hooks. There were only a few ounces of paint left in the can.

 

[bandit67]

For smaller projects, you can also try spray cans of Dupli-Color Engine Enamel, DE1620 Chevrolet Orange. I tried it on a small spot on my tractor, and it matched perfectly. It can be found at auto parts stores for at least half the price of the Kubota orange spray cans. I also used Rust-Oleum 7784 Charcoal Gray on my light brackets that I mounted to the ROPS.

I have a can of each of the Kubota orange and grey on hand just in case. I have a landscape rake that I need to repaint because it is painted Case red, so the Dupli-Color will be perfect for that. I hear the Kubota paint is very high quality, but it's too expensive to use on certain implements, so the cheaper paints should work fine for those.

 

[denmansoft]

Thanks guys.
I'll get some of the kubota paint for those touchups on the main tractor.
I'll use the cheaper paint for my implements once I find a store that carries those colors.
Right now my box blade is red/black, and my chipper is red/yellow. They will change to orange when my schedule frees up.

 

[Ductape]

For smaller projects, you can also try spray cans of Dupli-Color Engine Enamel, DE1620 Chevrolet Orange. I tried it on a small spot on my tractor, and it matched perfectly. It can be found at auto parts stores for at least half the price of the Kubota orange spray cans.

Coincidentally, when i painted my JD green ballast box orange, i had a couple cans of the Chevrolet engine orange hanging around, so i used them for the first couple coats. You are right..... the match is near perfect. I used the Kubota orance for the top coat or two....... saving on the overall cost of painting it.

 

[garc]

I just realized that I have neglected to post my results from this thread .

I purchased the Land Pride 2572 rear blade last winter and only got to use it once albeit with great success. Twice already this winter and it still works like a hot **** :thumbsup:.

I have "top and tilt" hydraulics on my 3 point with full float on the tilt. When I'm plowing I adjust the setup below using the top cylinder for gravel clearance of about 1" and lower the 3 point position control all the way to float and the tilt cylinder to float as well.

 

[Deano]

I am looking to add wheels to my blade. I have a set on my rake so I just need to add the mounts to the back of the blade. I bought skid shoes but they still tear up the ground. Maybe this will instill some urgency in my project!! Or, maybe not!!

Deano

 

[garc]

In response to a PM that is worth sharing: "Saw your comment about wheels on a blade for snow removal. Where would I look to purchase something like that? I have a Land Pride RB15 blade."

Reply: "You'll have to make your own mounting bracket as I did but much simpler than mine since it doesn't need to be adjustable, just tilt your blade to adjust blade edge ground clearance. Weld on 2 horizontal plates with a vertical support struts to the back of the blade and you are done. Set the caster height to give 1" blade edge clearance with the blade vertical. The wheels (STY103-***-SS-T) came from Algood Casters in BC Canada, page 24. The original wheels and pneumatic tires eventually self destructed so I switched to rigid, sturdy steel wheels and they work."

Word of caution: raise the blade before backing up or you will bend the caster assembly. Alternatively, you could extend the mount rearward with a longer and stronger bracket so that the caster can make a full rotation without hitting the blade . The down side of this is there will be more scalping on uneven surfaces and changing grades as the distance between blade and wheel contact increases :confused2:.