B7800 hsd or L3400

[chambers1517]

I have 5.5 acres that we are in the process of building on. I will have about 3 acres to mow and a 1400 foot gravel driveway. The driveway is pretty steep and will require lots of attention. I want to start with a boxblade and tractor, then a RFM and finally a loader. I am haveing a hard time chooseing between a Kubota b7800 HSD. Kubota L3400 manual, or a Farmtrak 320 DTC. The 7800 drives really well. The 320DTC is similar in size but about 500lbs heavier. And the L3400 is quite a bit larger. The 7800 is the tractor my dealer recomends but I am haveing a hard time overlooking the size difference. I also like the HSD on the 7800. The 7800 would be better for mowing but if I got into some heavy pulling the heavier tractors would be better, especially the L3400. These 3 tractors are within 200 dollars of each other and I can't help but feel like I am getting more with a heavier tractor. Thanks for any help.

 

[aloha]

Welcome to TBN.

I would encourage you to get the FEL with the tractor and box scraper. Whenever I am scraping, I find myself using the loader to move piles, remove excess material, smoothing surfaces, and many other functions.

You are right, the B7800 is a lightweight. This can be an advantage, but also can result in less traction. It's a tradeoff.

The work you describe does not seem to present any "heavy pulling" that would present a problem for the B7800. Just be sure the implements are correctly sized. A 60" box scraper is right. The HST is a real plus.

 

[BenA]

I tortured myself with this decision for a year. I thought I wanted the 3400 until actually seeing one. For much of my use, it is simply too big, but a beautiful tractor indeed. I think that it is an excellent value. The 7800 is light in tractor terms, but consider what you will end up with. With a boxblade +500 lbs, FEL maybe +600 lbs, loaded tires +400 lbs maybe, just guessing. At any rate, it ends up being a +3000 lb lightweight. To some, this is a pregnant riding mower, but in actuality, it should be capable of doing moderately heavy work, in my terms anyway. I have not received my tractor yet, so my voice is not one of experience. This is simply the reasoning I used to arrived at my decision. There are some here who do have lots of experience, such as Henro, who has a 2910, which in terms of capability is the same as the 7800. His comments, and those of others, have been very helpful. I am not trying to talk you into the 7800 because that is what I chose. This is just my take.

For your information, I am in VA. The 7800 with FEL is $15,800 with ag tires. The 3400 hydro with FEL was priced at $16,900 with ags, tires filled, delivered 40 miles. I wanted the hydro so it would be easier for my wife to drive, and no clutch to negotiate on hills. Good luck in your decision.

 

[TonyV]

Welcome to the forum Chambers. I'm in much the same situation as you having just purchased 5 acres to build on here in s.e. Michigan. I wound up purchasing an L3400 gear drive about a month ago. Also purchased the FEL and RFM at the same time. You didn't mention what part of the country your from, and this may influence your decision as well. With a steep 1400 foot driveway, you may want a heavier tractor if snow is going to be an issue. You may also want to consider industrial tires as a compromise over turf tires in order to get added traction, as I did. Its true that the 7800 can pull a box blade, but I think you'd be happier with the added horsepower of the 3400 when doing this task. About the only advantage I'd seen in purchasing the 7800 would be manuverability when cutting grass for instance. Given though that the added size and weight of the 3400 will allow you to do larger tasks more efficiently, I think gives you an advantage. I had to weed wack around trees and such when I cut with my riding mower, still have to weed wack when using the RFM...just a little larger area is all...hardly a difference really, time wise. You mentioned that you'd be getting the FEL later on, but honest to goodness...get it with the tractor right away, you'll be glad you did. That was my take on it, good luck with your decision...oh, and remember...you'd look a lot cooler on a bigger tractor too! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Oh, and by the way....take a minute and fill your profile out...it really helps out when trying to answer members questions.

...Tony

 

[chambers1517]

Thanks, both of you guys just pointed out my main dilemas. I live 10 miles south of Knoxville Tn. We really dont get much snow. The 2800 is 12100 and the 3400 is 12200 at my dealer.

 

[KubotaSteve]

My situation was very similar to yours except I don't have a steep driveway. I went with the B7800. I thought about how I would be using the tractor mostly. Mowing would put most of the hours on the machine, so I didn't want a heavy bulky machine trying to maneuver around on my 6.5 acres. There are times when I wish I had a larger machine but then there are times when I'm glad I got the smaller lighter machine. You have to figure out what your main uses will be and pick a machine for that work.
It has plenty of pulling power. I can load the 60" boxblade full of dirt and have the rippers all the way down and pull it in low range. Sometimes I have to fill the FEL with dirt to get added traction. One other thing to consider getting a larger machine is when you get it stuck (believe me, you will get it stuck) you will have to have something big enough to pull it out. The biggest plus I could see with the L Series is the increased loader capacity.

 

[freedogs]

I'm late on this post but here's my take anyway. I've got a lot of heavily wooded land and some pasture and both are on rolling hills with creeks and wetlands. My driveway is one mile of gravel with a couple of steep hills. I got a B7800 with FEL (rear blade, bush hog, and tiller) about 6 mos. ago and it sure was the right choice for me. Bush hogging among the trees and hills and in open pasture has been more fun than work and the driveway is now much easier on my wife's car. Except for trying to till in rocks, I haven't found a task my B7800 won't do if I take my time and plan it right. And the ability to maneuver in close quarters has been invaluable. I've even learned to really appreciate the HST. Now, anybody want to trade for a tiller?

 

[gilliganfarmer]

Hey tractor lovers,

I know this was a topic back in 2005 but I have some new questions. I am new at this compact tractor scene. When much younger I drove larger tractors to cut sorgum and large brush.

I am looking for a 30 to 40 hp barely used kubota for my small veg farm. I use permanent raised beds and I want a tractor that can straddle the beds.

I have two main questions this morning. What is the actual distance between the inside edge of the back tires (ag or industrial tires)? How adjustable is that spacing?

I have been checking out the B7800 and the L3240. For tilling in a clay loam what style of pto(live continuous or independent) would work the best and last the longest?

Thanks

 

[rural2]

B7800 w/industrial tire is 28 1/2" inside tread width. There is apx. 1" of room between the inside fender and tire on each side, not sure how a person would be able to move the rims in however. Nothing to stop moving rims out w/spacers though. Can't answer your other question about tilling, sorry.

 

[gilliganfarmer]

Thanks for that measurement.

Are ag tires and industrial tires for the B7800 the same width?

 

[Texas Dodge]

I have 5 acres my self and just recently purchased an L3400 with FEL for 14K. I think it is not too much tractor at all. In fact I can mow the entire 5 acres in about 4 hours.

 

[art]

Thanks for that measurement.

Are ag tires and industrial tires for the B7800 the same width?

They are not the same widths! The industrial are normally twice the widths and they don't have all the adjustments that the ag tires do for crop work.

 

[art]

Hey tractor lovers,

I know this was a topic back in 2005 but I have some new questions. I am new at this compact tractor scene. When much younger I drove larger tractors to cut sorgum and large brush.

I am looking for a 30 to 40 hp barely used kubota for my small veg farm. I use permanent raised beds and I want a tractor that can straddle the beds.

I have two main questions this morning. What is the actual distance between the inside edge of the back tires (ag or industrial tires)? How adjustable is that spacing?

I have been checking out the B7800 and the L3240. For tilling in a clay loam what style of pto(live continuous or independent) would work the best and last the longest?

Thanks

If at all possible go with the L-3240 chassis.

 

[rural2]

As usual, the type work a machine will be doing would dictate the better choice. If the tractor is straight lining out in a field why would a person need/want a hydro trans. or the opposite for loader work. The same w/tire type, horse power, hydraulic pump capacity, bucket - no bucket, remotes, weight, width, height, comfy seat, surround sound, 50" plasma TV...

 

[gilliganfarmer]

If at all possible go with the L-3240 chassis.

Time is money and I am feeling that I would get more done with the 3240.

Why do you recomend that chassis?

 

[art]

Time is money and I am feeling that I would get more done with the 3240.

Why do you recomend that chassis?

The ability to have the heavier chassis for tillage would be a plus for what you could pull. The ag tires on the L-series I think will be more flexible for the widths that you might need to straddle your crops. Not knowing exactly what you are working with or doing does limit what suggestions I might be able to make to assist you. I would be available for a consultation field trip in January or February if you could wait that long.he-he

 

[gilliganfarmer]

I was waiting for someone to make an offer. Unfortunately I would like to get a tractor as soon as I could. Winter is our best growing time down here.

I am having a hard time deciding what to buy but I see that this is a comon problem in this modern age. Someone I know is selling a 30 hp Kioti and I cecked out the reviews and it looks like a good half of the owners really are dissapointed with their machines. not so with the kubota reviews.

I will stick with the Kubota world. I need a machine that will last.

I think the hardest thing I would do with my tactor would be the subsoiling with a ripper.

 

[art]

Depending on the amount of the sub soiling or ripping compared to other chores would depend on the heft of the tractor needed. If you were to do the ripping just once every two years and you only had two acres then for sure I wouldn't buy a tractor around that chore. For that you would have to buy the ripper for the tractor that fit the bulk of it's duties.

 

[gilliganfarmer]

Ripping is not going to happen too often. Shallow tilling will happen alot and hilling the beds back up after the tiller pass.

All my beds are about 100 ft long.

I have found a 1998 L2500 in texas at Victoria Oliver for 9900 that looks good. one user a mechanic and 163 hrs. They also have a L3130 for 13,200(both with FEL). I am having a hard time figuring out which one to get.

Or a new 3400.........

One more thought. Do you think a HST transmission would be much harder to fix than say the glide shift or the sliding gear for your general tractor mechanic?.

 

[art]

I'm not going to say a hydro won't break, but I will say they for sure break a lot less then gear drives of any style will. We've been selling them for over thirty years and they do hold up better then any other style transmission overall but they do have there downfalls. I'd say for the 100 foot rows that a hydro might be the best for you for overall flexibility.