Back blade for snow removal

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

I’m sure speed and tractor size are important in the risk of damage to the 3PH. My little Kubota B probably can’t break itself at lower speed, the machine will just stop. I run an ETA 6 way back blade and I can spin it 180 pretty easily, I just have to lift a bit when it passes the Pat’s easy change. They hang a bit lower than bare lift arms.

I can see better and can make a cleaner finish with the back blade than I can with the loader. I suspect much of that is a sheer lack of experience using the loader for snow...

 

[LouNY]

Some blades (e.g. Rhino), they just put a second hyd. cylinder connection 180 degrees apart from the other. Just pull the cylinder pin, rotate blade 180 and reconnect. Maybe there's a way, a will, and a welder that can do same?

So what's the consensus:
Should you "reverse" the blade so that it is oriented to plow-push backwards? I've always heard not to do this since there is no trip function and 3 point hitches are made to pull, not push, i.e. you risk damage?
I can definitely see an advantage of being able to drive away forward from the pile in the path you just plowed in reverse, and not be trapped.

A tip I learned was for plowing on ground that's not totally flat is to pull the "tilt" pin, or set the equivalent hydraulics to "float", so that the blade tilts/ floats and follows the contours of the ground. -Of course I discovered this after spending $800 (in parts) to add the second hydraulic function before buying the blade. Oh well, still handy when ditching dirt. Hmm, maybe the cylinder is correct length to relocate to the "offset" function, which would be handy when trying to "reach out" next to buildings and fences.

View attachment 539618

If you look at my previous post #34, you can see how much I'm pushing backwards and that was crossing the road to pile on the far side of the road, I run a hydraulic top link and quite often I'll shorten that so my lift arms are lower and the blade doesn't bounce the lift arms. When I did most of my driveway with the back blade I'd be changing the angle about 5 times and then I'd spin if from forward to reverse a couple of times.

 

[TheMan419]

So OP here..... we got 12 inches of snow friday and another 4-5 inches saturday night. I feel like I spent the entire weekend on the tractor clearing snow. I have not had time to figure out the back blade so I did with the bucket. This is the first major snow dump we have had since I have owned the tractor.

Friday morning when I got up at 5 a.m. we had 3-4 inches of snow. Cleared that just fine.

Friday when I got home we had another 8-10 inches. That took quite a while to clear. Normally I can clear 3-4 inches in 25-35 minutes. It took me over an hour for this run.

Sunday morning took me another 30-40 minutes. Then Sunday afternoon I went back out and cleared more. I found that even with the Edge Tamer's on I could put just a slight down angle on the bucket and shave off another layer of snow. I ran up and down the drive doing this until I could tell I was just above the level of the gravel. I did not want to dig into that and push it into the yard.

So this summer I will learn to use the back blade. Pushing all this snow I found that having extra weight on the back wheels would have been nice as well for traction. I was never worried that the snow in the bucket was making me need a counter weight.

I have plenty of left over pieces of horse stall mat from when I was installing those. So I will likely add one to the bottom of the cutting edge. Having it look like buttercream would be nice.

 

[RSKY]

So OP here..... we got 12 inches of snow friday and another 4-5 inches saturday night. I feel like I spent the entire weekend on the tractor clearing snow. I have not had time to figure out the back blade so I did with the bucket. This is the first major snow dump we have had since I have owned the tractor.

Friday morning when I got up at 5 a.m. we had 3-4 inches of snow. Cleared that just fine.

Friday when I got home we had another 8-10 inches. That took quite a while to clear. Normally I can clear 3-4 inches in 25-35 minutes. It took me over an hour for this run.

Sunday morning took me another 30-40 minutes. Then Sunday afternoon I went back out and cleared more. I found that even with the Edge Tamer's on I could put just a slight down angle on the bucket and shave off another layer of snow. I ran up and down the drive doing this until I could tell I was just above the level of the gravel. I did not want to dig into that and push it into the yard.

So this summer I will learn to use the back blade. Pushing all this snow I found that having extra weight on the back wheels would have been nice as well for traction. I was never worried that the snow in the bucket was making me need a counter weight.

I have plenty of left over pieces of horse stall mat from when I was installing those. So I will likely add one to the bottom of the cutting edge. Having it look like buttercream would be nice.

I don't know how long your driveway is buy I just angle my back blade at 45* and start down the middle throwing snow to the side. Once I start it will roll off the blade to the side. I reverse back and make two of three passes, what ever is needed. Then I reverse back to my starting point and change the angle the other way and throw the snow off the other side. On neighbors gravel drives I let down until I see a few rocks then raise the 3-pt up a half number, slot is numbered 1-9 and use the same process. I cannot imagine using the bucket t clear a drive. It would take me much longer.

 

[TheMan419]

I don't know how long your driveway is buy I just angle my back blade at 45* and start down the middle throwing snow to the side. Once I start it will roll off the blade to the side. I reverse back and make two of three passes, what ever is needed. Then I reverse back to my starting point and change the angle the other way and throw the snow off the other side. On neighbors gravel drives I let down until I see a few rocks then raise the 3-pt up a half number, slot is numbered 1-9 and use the same process. I cannot imagine using the bucket t clear a drive. It would take me much longer.

With the bucket I have not had trouble clearing 3-4 inches of snow that we have had. This last time with 8 on the drive it was a pain in the ....

So always looking to learn new tools.

My 3 pt does not have numbered slots. Just a leaver for up/down. You can set it where you want it. I suspect that this is where I will really want to use the dial that lets me lock the lower limit of the 3 point once I find where that point is.

Do you use any kind of pipe or horsestall mat or any of the other tricks on the cutting edge of the back blade?

 

[Creamer]

With the bucket I have not had trouble clearing 3-4 inches of snow that we have had. This last time with 8 on the drive it was a pain in the ....

So always looking to learn new tools.

My 3 pt does not have numbered slots. Just a leaver for up/down. You can set it where you want it. I suspect that this is where I will really want to use the dial that lets me lock the lower limit of the 3 point once I find where that point is.

Do you use any kind of pipe or horsestall mat or any of the other tricks on the cutting edge of the back blade?

I do the same as RSKY and I do not use any pipe or horse mat or any other item. The hydraulics hold it fine but you will need a fairly smooth driveway.

 

[RSKY]

With the bucket I have not had trouble clearing 3-4 inches of snow that we have had. This last time with 8 on the drive it was a pain in the ....

So always looking to learn new tools.

My 3 pt does not have numbered slots. Just a leaver for up/down. You can set it where you want it. I suspect that this is where I will really want to use the dial that lets me lock the lower limit of the 3 point once I find where that point is.

Do you use any kind of pipe or horsestall mat or any of the other tricks on the cutting edge of the back blade?

Nothing but steel. And the number can vary depending on the length of the top link. It is just an indicator. I cleared the road in front of our house a few weeks ago using the same method. Until I started having fuel problems and had to quit. My little tractor does not put downforce on the 3-pt so it is just the weight of the cheap Howse blade holding it down. I usually have to lengthen the top link more than you would think to get the snow 'rolling' to the side. But once I get it rolling I don't stop until I get to the other end. I think the road is about 3/4 of a mile long.

RSKY

 

[sideskraft]

Nothing but steel. And the number can vary depending on the length of the top link. It is just an indicator. I cleared the road in front of our house a few weeks ago using the same method. Until I started having fuel problems and had to quit. My little tractor does not put downforce on the 3-pt so it is just the weight of the cheap Howse blade holding it down. I usually have to lengthen the top link more than you would think to get the snow 'rolling' to the side. But once I get it rolling I don't stop until I get to the other end. I think the road is about 3/4 of a mile long.

RSKY

Are there any compact tractors that put downforce on the 3-point hitch? Seems like I read somewhere that this feature is possibly only used on large agricultural tractors or even not at all.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

None I’m aware of. The weight of the blade and correct angle is all you need. I lower mine completely to ensure all blade weight is on the horse stall mat. That’s where a mat or pipe shines, it’s either up or down.

 

[KennK]

... I just angle my back blade at 45* and start down the middle throwing snow to the side. Once I start it will roll off the blade to the side. I reverse back and make two of three passes, what ever is needed. Then I reverse back to my starting point and change the angle the other way and throw the snow off the other side. On neighbors gravel drives I let down until I see a few rocks then raise the 3-pt up a half number, slot is numbered 1-9 and use the same process. I cannot imagine using the bucket t clear a drive. It would take me much longer.

Bingo! I agree. About a 45 degree angle and just go for it. Another bit of advice is to not wait until you have 12" of snow. I find the rear blade works best for up to about 4-6" of snow. Just plow the snow a bit more often and it is so much easier. Like I said, I have a circle area, and I find sometimes my front wheels slip while turning sharp. I put snow in the FEL bucket to stop that.

It really isn't rocket science. My advice would be to start using that rear blade now - and enjoy it. I have blacktop and use the steel edge. It really doesn't damage it.