Backhoe thoughts?

[C-Range]

It is definitely part of the backhoe subframe. I'm sure if you make the seller aware that it is part of the backhoe, he'll be fine with switching. The part number for the "support" is the same on the old style subframe as it is on the new style subframe so switching it out with the one on your new 2520 won't be a problem. You will still keep the same PTO shield pieces and the horizontal draft link pins. It's just that frame mentioned earlier that needs to be changed over. Upon installation, the mounting bolts should be tightened to 83 ft lbs.

I would definitely do the swap with both machines present.

 

[Gizmo2]

It is definitely part of the backhoe subframe. I'm sure if you make the seller aware that it is part of the backhoe, he'll be fine with switching. The part number for the "support" is the same on the old style subframe as it is on the new style subframe so switching it out with the one on your new 2520 won't be a problem. You will still keep the same PTO shield pieces and the horizontal draft link pins. It's just that frame mentioned earlier that needs to be changed over. Upon installation, the mounting bolts should be tightened to 83 ft lbs.

I would definitely do the swap with both machines present.

:thumbsup:

 

[smalltown]

Well I double checked with the parts counter at the JD dealrship yup it's an astounding $995 for the bracket/support. Just can't imagine why, but that's the way it is.

On a brighter note I met with the seller this evening and explained the situation to him. We agreed that once my 2520 arrives (I ordered it 3 weeks ago tomorrow) that I will take off my bracker/support and we will swap our brackets. :thumbsup: He was also reassured when I informed him no fluids would leak out. He gave me his word, we shook on it and I paid for the backhoe and made arrangements for help to get it home tomorrow ahead of the up coming rain. He aslo noted on the sales receipt that I would be returning for the bracket.

We removed the front mounting brackets from his tractor. Took the seat, mounting hardware, and the safety sign.
Tomorrow I'll get the Owners manual I forgot, and gather up all the pins and put them in a plactic bag.

 

[C-Range]

And don't forget a torque wrench!

Congrats smalltown. I hope your next post will include some photos of a hole in the ground.

 

[smalltown]

Thanks Cris.

Yes a torque wrench absolutely. Got you post on the 83 ft lbs. :thumbsup:
Is there any sequence to tightening? Or just sneak up on all of them in a star pattern?

Still need to wait for my already ordered 2520 to arrive to be able to get a wrench on my bracket.

 

[smalltown]

Well we got it home and in the garage. It's a little bulky all assembled.
It started to sprinkle a few hours later so we lucked out. Rain tonight and the rest of the week and into next weekend.
Feels good to have it under cover. Always amazes me that somebody would pay good money for something then leave it out in the rain to rust.
There is a local farmer that leaves his tractor outside year round in the rain and snow with not even as much as a tarp.

At least I can putter on it inside the garage.

 

[C-Range]

Thanks Cris.

Yes a torque wrench absolutely. Got you post on the 83 ft lbs. :thumbsup:
Is there any sequence to tightening? Or just sneak up on all of them in a star pattern?

Still need to wait for my already ordered 2520 to arrive to be able to get a wrench on my bracket.

The shape of this bracket doesn't really invite the need for a pattern but I'd move around. Get all of the screws in snug and torque to the number all at once for proper fidelity.

 

[smalltown]

If I learned one thing after 43 years of marriage it's if the wife is not happy nobody is happy.

So in between honey do projects such as drying sheetrock mud I am starting to putter on the backhoe. Tomorrow or Monday there will be sunshine for the first time in over a week. :dance1:

I thought it best to start with a good power wash and a little household degreaser.

Not being familair with hydraulics I thought it best to just pull the pins holding the hydro cylinders and leave the hydro lines connected hoping to have enough room to remove rust and spray paint.

If it were to remove the cylinders to make it easier to paint is that a big issue? Just trying to judge my options.

Am I going to have hydro fluid all over the place?

Will I need to replace any parts such as "O" rings if there are any on the cylinder hydro connections? If so I would order them ahead of time.

Do I just add hydro fluid to the new 2520 when it arrives after I connect the backhoe to make up for any fluid loss in the backhoe?

If I understand the owners manual the system will self purge itself of air if I work the backhoe elements throught their full range of movement.

 

[charleyfarmall]

It's very messy if you remove the cylinders and lines. You can't help but get fluid every where which makes it hard to paint.

In theory it should self bleed, but in practice you have to work at it to get all the air out of the lines. Eventually it will clear.

The connections should be flares so no o-rings.

Just check the fluid level in the reservoir after use and add Hygard as needed.

Backhoes are a blast, the only thing better is an excavator. Those make you feel like a super hero

 

[kennyd]

It's very messy if you remove the cylinders and lines. You can't help but get fluid every where which makes it hard to paint.

In theory it should self bleed, but in practice you have to work at it to get all the air out of the lines. Eventually it will clear.

The connections should be flares so no o-rings.

Just check the fluid level in the reservoir after use and add Hygard as needed.

Backhoes are a blast, the only thing better is an excavator. Those make you feel like a super hero

All good points. Personally I would not remove the lines from the cylinders.