Buying Advice Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires

   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires
  • Thread Starter
#81  
I honestly don't know, but my dealer said they were "about the same as fluid".

If they're about the same weight as fluid, they'd have to be around 215 lbs each. It's great that you can take them off, but at that weight, I don't know that I'd ever want to fool with doing so.

I'm now understanding the previous comments about sciatica and trips to the chiropractor.


John
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #82  
For me i just use one whell weight on each tire and a big 745pound weight on the 3pt hitch and that works just fine for me so i would just go with the weight box because when you want the weight you can back right up to it and hook it up or when you don't want the weight you can just take it right off in a couple of seconds and you don't have to worry about getting a flat and lossing all that filling in the tires then you have to go out and buy another tube then put stuff in there agai n and that will cost some money too. so i would just go with the weight box.
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires
  • Thread Starter
#83  
Derre:

I'll be doing both the filled tires and the ballast box. I'd like to be able to vary the amount of extra weight I'm carrying, depending on what I'm doing with the tractor.


John
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #84  
My son is a pretty good welder and fabricator, so this winter, we will be looking at some way to add some railroad track sections if we can figure it out. As a last resort, I will buy factory weights.

If you don't need the loader as a "feeler" (as you put it), front weights would be great. I'd much rather use them due to the compactness on areas I need front weight, but not the loader.
They're pretty darn expensive though...if you go for suitcase weights (but I keep my eye out on Craigslist).

Seems like a pull type cutter wouldn't require front weights of any sort, unless going up a steep incline.
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #85  
If you don't need the loader as a "feeler" (as you put it), front weights would be great. I'd much rather use them due to the compactness on areas I need front weight, but not the loader.
They're pretty darn expensive though...if you go for suitcase weights (but I keep my eye out on Craigslist).

Seems like a pull type cutter wouldn't require front weights of any sort, unless going up a steep incline.

I agree, I really like the compactness of the tractor without FEL too. It really gets complicated in the hills with the erosion. I have had to use the FEL to extricate myself in some areas when I am moving wildlife cover. We also have some fairly steep inclines in some areas. I have also found a stump or two I didn't know was there.

We do keep some established paths through our property and around the periphery as ASCS has used it for some demonstrations and we like to "sight see" ourselves.

With the pull type cutter, I am hoping we can get by with only a relatively small amount of weight on the front. I have been checking CL and asked my dealer to keep his eyes open for some suitcase weights of any brand. On flat ground, no added weight is needed.

We have only had the M8549 for about three months and due to our hectic schedules haven't had the opportunity to fine tune as much as we would like.
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #86  
On the B series tractors just a quick turn with the empty bucket up could be a problem. I bought mine without filled tires to try it but it needs the tire weight and I like the fact that the weight is off the axle and on the ground. Can add 500lbs to the 3pt hitch also if needed. The tire weight is also helpful working in close quarters. The bottom line is again "whatever works for YOU"
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #87  
I just got an e-mail from the dealer about the specifics of getting loaded rear tires when I buy the tractor. Here's what he said:

"We load tires with a product called Rim Guard. It is made out of Beet Juice and other natural products and is environmentally friendly. It weighs 10.7 pounds per gallon and does not freeze. To load the R4 Industrial tires would add 430 pounds to the back of your tractor and cost $157.00. We load tires at cost not making any profit on it because we feel a tractor is safer with the rear tires loaded."
I've decided to go the route of the loaded tires and the B8160 ballast box. Yes, it's gonna be a mess if those tires get a puncture and start bleeding beet juice all over the place, but for an additional $157 for both rear tires, it just seems ridiculous to pass it up. Plus, the dealership is just 4 miles away if I ever have a problem.

Update: I just discovered that Rim Guard is made from an agricultural byproduct of sugar beets (white flesh), not red beets. So no bloody stain if you ever get a leak.


John

The RimGuard is brown in color, thicker than water (about the consistency of undiluted antifreeze), a little slimy and a little stinky. It makes a bit of a mess if you spill some but it's not to bad to wash off your hands for example. Pretty benign stuff really.
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #88  
It's 300 bucks around here to fill, and that's when you buy the tractor new.
What's the specific gravity of beer? At least if I get a leak it will smell like me....
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #89  
The RimGuard is brown in color, thicker than water (about the consistency of undiluted antifreeze), a little slimy and a little stinky. It makes a bit of a mess if you spill some but it's not to bad to wash off your hands for example. Pretty benign stuff really.

Diarrhea is my best description. Same color. Same texture, same stench.... And I'm assuming (someone else can't test the comparison)...... same taste.:D
 
   / Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires #90  
If they're about the same weight as fluid, they'd have to be around 215 lbs each. It's great that you can take them off, but at that weight, I don't know that I'd ever want to fool with doing so.

I'm now understanding the previous comments about sciatica and trips to the chiropractor.


John

I doubt they would be quite that heavy on a BX, but they are too heavy for me. The only reason I would ever take mine off would be if I had to remove the tire/wheel.

I used an unweighted BX2200 for six years and the only difference between my 2200 and 2660 is improved traction; no increased dame to my yard or anything else.
 

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