Ballast box / weight

JC-jetro · Nov 22, 2013

jimmysisson said:
That will feel like a heavy tail on your tractor. I had one on a similar size old Massey and it planted the rear nicely for snow plowing. I did set it up so the weight was borne by the frame mount for the backhoe so the 3-point wasn't holding it up all the time and would recommend that. Lets see it finished!
Jim

3 point on kubota picks up 2800 lbs. All I wanted is some sensible weight only when I need to lift and do some loader work. I don't have backhoe mount so it has to hang from 3 point. The tractor has sub mount so the weight is distributed well from the rear axle to transmission. I guess my question is 1200-1400 lbs adequate. Don't want to put too much or not enough. The finished product will be done next year when we build. I would have a 2x2x2 plywood box( form) ready with the lift arm mounted inside with the pin sticking out. They always have excess concrete after the pour and I'll ask them to dump it i to the box. It will happen next spring. Need one sheet of osb plywood and some scrap 2x4 for stiffening it. It'll just be used when needed. I can also put the carry all or my dirt scoop with some big heavy rock but I wanted it to be solid and not slide off.

JC,

jimmysisson · Nov 23, 2013

I think you'll find 1200 lb is fine. I'd still want some chain or strap steel hangers so the lift seals aren't under that much pressure. Maybe you could incorporate some nylon web straps to go around the rockshaft bosses or some such.
Jim

JC-jetro · Nov 23, 2013

jimmysisson said:
I think you'll find 1200 lb is fine. I'd still want some chain or strap steel hangers so the lift seals aren't under that much pressure. Maybe you could incorporate some nylon web straps to go around the rockshaft bosses or some such.
Jim

I agree Jim, I hate to keep seals under pressure when not needed. I always bleed off all pressure from loader and 3 point. Stored energy in any form can be dangerous. I'll study the design, probably will be able to use one of the top link holes and chain or something to remove some load of the 3 point. The lift cylinder on MX-4700 has a seal and back up and it is class II hitch so it's pretty stout. A sheet of plywood should give me easily a 2x2x2.5 feet box with 2x4 on corners to stiffen things up.

JC,

JC-jetro · Dec 3, 2013

A bit of update:

They say measure twice and cut once or in my case measure correctly and weld once. I just eye balled the distance between the upright where it ties to the top link. it does work for cat I but not wide enough for cat II. I could have cut and rewelded it but would be difficult cut to keep things plumb. I went to plan B and made an extension that could also pivot. actually I like it better and would make it for easier hook up. I need to stich weld the extension although one piece would have been enough. I suppose I can use for other application if I wanted a longer top link.

JC,

jimmysisson · Dec 4, 2013

Ford and others used to sell a rigid steel bar support for the tph drawbar. A hole in each end. One over the top link pin, the other over the swinging drawbar ends, with a slight bend at each end so they go straight over the pins. They were about 1/4" thick and 1-1/2" wide, length to make the lower links parallel to the ground. I think I have one around someplace, though you'd want to measure your requirements.
I like the flex of the extender-fix.
Jim

JC-jetro · Dec 4, 2013

jimmysisson said:
Ford and others used to sell a rigid steel bar support for the tph drawbar. A hole in each end. One over the top link pin, the other over the swinging drawbar ends, with a slight bend at each end so they go straight over the pins. They were about 1/4" thick and 1-1/2" wide, length to make the lower links parallel to the ground. I think I have one around someplace, though you'd want to measure your requirements.
I like the flex of the extender-fix.
Jim

Jim,

I hunted a few hrs this am and swung by my place and picked up the top link for fit check. To my surprise I noticed the top link had two different ends one for cat I and one for cat II, so I could have switched them how I needed it. I never realized that. It was still a bit tight for cat I and needed a hammer if it got bound up. My idea is pretty much what you described as I was planning to stitch weld two of the 1/4" thick bar together although 1/4" probably is good enough as it would always be in tension with some side to side force. I can bury the contraption more in the middle of 2x2x2 concrete block and use it for lifting and moving it when needed.

JC,

JC-jetro · Dec 20, 2013

Hey guys, one more update.

I made a box (form) that measure to 2x2x2. This thing appears pretty big and I wondered If I might need to make it a bit smaller. The width I'll keep the same as 24" . I could pick it up with quick attach @ 26" center to center of the lift hooks. I don't have to fill up to 2 feet and as far as depth I can reduce it to around 20" or some adding a filler piece in the form. This thing will get filled up in spring next year.

Any opinions?

JC,

jimmysisson · Dec 21, 2013

Tie it on temporarily somehow and fill with washed stone or gravel to try it out?
Jim

JC-jetro · Dec 21, 2013

jimmysisson said:
Tie it on temporarily somehow and fill with washed stone or gravel to try it out?
Jim

Jim,

Plywood will not be able to handle the weight without quite a bit of bracing on the outside. I might check to see if kubota has a ballast box and how much weight it has. I then then adjust the inside volume to comply with the weight needed. I'm thinking may be around 900 lbs be a better weight hanging in the back. If so, then I adjust the dimension to 2x??x??.

JC,