barn raising

AndyR · Apr 29, 2002

Forgot to ask - who was the contractor/timber-framer cutting the frame?

JJT · Apr 29, 2002

"but was reminded that the size was defined most by the amount of material that would be left after the joints were cut. "

Not true, as long as your joints are tight you have most of the benefit of an uncut timber. The worst thing structurally on a timber frame is sloppy joints.

I've done more than a little timber framing. My 3000 sq ft house only has 4 sets of rafters - 18' 8x12's, all my posts and main girts are also 8x12's. For me the timber size was more visual - pleasing to the eye, rather than meeting minimum code. I could have easily gotten away with 8x8's, but the bigger timbers look better.

Beautiful structure, you're quite the sawyer! My guess - you'll take to timber framing. I liked it so much I cut a timber frame for my 1000 sq ft garage and have near term plans for another 3 bay workshop/garage.

woodmills1 · Apr 29, 2002

yes we made the newspaper, thought that there would be a story also, but............ Michael Bergeron did the mortise work.

stmiller2 · Apr 30, 2002

JTT,

Just curious. How did you learn timber framing? Is this something that one can learn on his own by reading and doing?

I have seen ads for timber framing schools. Do they offer good value for the money?

JJT · Apr 30, 2002

Yes Timberframing can be learned by reading and doing.

I've been a woodworker for years and been around carpenters all my life. I really got the timberframe bug when I priced frames cut by someone else, ($45K). It took me 1000 hours over the course of 12 months to cut the frame for my house, ~14000 board feet of timbers and hundreds of joints. The first few timbers were slow going but after a few weeks you start to get proficient and develop a rythem. I actually planed and sanded all my timbers, cut the joints and then applied 2 coats of oil. The cost of tools, a part time helper, white pine timbers, white oak for pegs and oil was less than $10K.

Here are a few Timber Framer/authors - Ted Benson, Stewart Elliot, Eugene Wallas, Jack A. Sobon.

I honestly think the classes/workshops are over rated and over priced.

AndyR · May 1, 2002

I've been a member of the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tfguild.org/index.html>Timber Framers Guild</A> for 2 years now. I don't disagree that cutting your own frame can be much more rewarding - both in the pocket and the head, however I do differ on the value of classes. There is much more to learn from a seasoned professional then you can pull out of a book. And there are some books out there that are downright dangerous in the (mis)information they provide. Ive been taking Guild sponsored classes (basic, engineering, scribing and rigging, etc.) at the Heartwood school in Mass. and have had few complaints. The engineering course was a real eye opener - some of this stuff is not at all intuitive. I'm not saying that you cannot learn it on your own - just that I wouldn't discount the value of good instruction.

Sounds like you did a nice job on your house - any picutres?

stmiller2 · May 1, 2002

Andy and/or JTT,

Which of the timber framing books/authors would you recommend for a beginner? Thanks in advance for your advice.

JJT · May 1, 2002

Pictures - when I break down and buy a digital camera I'll post a few.

Book for a beginner - Kack A Sobon's "Build a Classic Timber-Framed House".

AndyR · May 1, 2002

I'll second Sobon's book! Also Ted Benson's "Building the Timber Frame House" [ISBN 0-684-17286-0] is usefull too. Benson's later books are more picture books - thisone has some meat to it. There is also a very usefull <A target="_blank" HREF=http://store.yahoo.com/tfguild/pub.html>book</A> put out by the Guild. The basic tool of the trade is a 1 1/2" chisel and mallet and you go on from there. It is <font color=red>very</font color=red> good to know the proper way to sharpen chisels and such. Lee Valley tools puts out an excelent book on the subject as well as reasonably priced sharpening equipment.