Barn sticker shock. WOW!

[fried1765]

It's not the thickness of the concrete that increases storm survival. It's how the building is anchored to said concrete. Then it's the ability of the structure to stay intact.

I agree!
A 12" floor makes no sense to me.
I have a 36x48 pole barn, and a 40x50 stick built.
Both have 4" concrete floors.

I am 1/3 mile from the ocean, in a 140 mph design code zone.
Insurance companies consider it a high risk zone and will not write individual policies (I am 40' above MSL)
I would be required to be in a state managed insurance pool,.... with absurd premiums.
I have Lloyds of London for insurance instead.

My 289 year old house (put together with pegs) is on the policy as well.
Crude stone and brick foundation there. No tie down.
I just wonder how many hurricanes it has been through.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Go back read post 1. WCD gave a description of what the price covered.

Wasnt much more than 10 yrs ago a friend had a 40 x 100 x 16 built, concrete floor, electric in the $20 -$30k range. Then his wife fooled around, and she now has it... It was built by PPB listed in a response above. Course he was also the mining engineer at the local portland cement factory, maybe he got a really good deal on concrete.

I kind of know the area where WCD is, his area will command a higher price, too close to yuppieville.

I think you hit it on the nose, Buckeye. We are in a building boom here. The prices for townhouses are ridiculous. My place is rural, on a dirt road but less that 20 miles from the city and there is a lot of money moving in around here. Or at least a lot of people with good enough credit to buy overpriced homes. There is a high priced “village/town” 7 miles from me where you can spend half a million on a house that’s so close to your neighbor, that you can toss them a beer when you are both on your porch. And there are no less than 1000 houses being built right now in my area of the county. That is not a number i pulled out of the air. It comes from the county government. It probably doesnt compare to some places but its
Crazy just the same. As for the first estimate,

 

[ovrszd]

I kust finished a 1900 sqft shop and am finishing a 2400 sqft house. Costs are directly related to details.

Can you build a shop cheaper than mine? You bet.

Can you build my shop cheaper? Probably not.

Three things determine the cost of a building. Details, details, details.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Well we will find out what I can do, and what details I can achieve. I think I can get all the features I want for 30k in materials plus the cement. and put it together myself.
And what I want. 40x60x16 at least a 4/12 pitch. 2 roll ups and 2 man doors. 4 windows. walls and ceiling Insulated. Grey Roof, Grey sides, Grey Trim. my wife chose the color and she keeps saying she likes the kind of silvery look of the galvalume panels. It sounds like a trap so I am gonna spend a little energy finding out and making sure. I am thinking that I will just order the painted grey . The insulation kicks me up to about 30K. Perhaps just over.
One of the better quotes I got for the steel structure. was $22,000 for 40x60 with Grey roof and sides. 4/12 pitch. garage rollup frame out is about 500, door frame out about 200.

 

[ovrszd]

Now we're getting down to details. Lot more to this than appears on the surface. All desires need to be settled on and discussed with the supplier.

Eddie Walker would be better at this than I. With that said, I'll rattle off things based on my recent experience.

Doors - Is your walkin insulated, steel clad, with window? Prehung and painted? What type of latch and is it lockable?

Doors- Are you using rollups oroverheads? If rollups, are they insulated, high quality doors or cheap ones? If overheads are they high quality name brand, insulated, steel clad inside, torsion spring, latch/lock equipped, painted?

Windows - What size, sliders or double hung, insulated glass, prehung/painted, Low E glass, vinyl clad, wood framed?

Insulation - R value and type in walls, ceiling? Are you adding flat ceiling and using blow in? Don't just depend on buildimg wrap if you expect good insulation value.

Structure - Pole spacing, purlin material and spacing, truss material and load rating? Thickness of metal panel and paint quality? Screwed on metal or nailed? Typar wrapped? OSB sheeted?

I'm sure I missed a lot but hopefully got you thinking. The various answers to my questions can change the cost of your building 40% easily.

Friend of mine recently built a shop slightly larger than mine for $25K. I have 80K in mine. Nothing about our two buildings is comparable. Nothing.

 

[EddieWalker]

I tell my clients all the time that I don't care what they pick out, it all installs the same. I've installed $20 front door knobs, and $300 door knobs. Neither where anything special. Same with lights, tile, faucets and most everything else in a house. But what does happen is the budget can easily double based on how they want to finish it, how trendy they want to be, and how much time they spend shopping around. My wife likes to look once, make a choice, and that's that. But I'm at the different stores every day, all week, and I'm always looking at what's out there and for ways to do it for less and get the best results.

Wood posts in the ground type of pole barns are the most cost effective way to build. A rectangle is the most cost effective way to build. Changing those two things gives you a different building, but not necessarily one that will last longer. Just like my client with the $300 door knob, what do you have to have to be happy with it?

 

[ovrszd]

I tell my clients all the time that I don't care what they pick out, it all installs the same. I've installed $20 front door knobs, and $300 door knobs. Neither where anything special. Same with lights, tile, faucets and most everything else in a house. But what does happen is the budget can easily double based on how they want to finish it, how trendy they want to be, and how much time they spend shopping around. My wife likes to look once, make a choice, and that's that. But I'm at the different stores every day, all week, and I'm always looking at what's out there and for ways to do it for less and get the best results.

Wood posts in the ground type of pole barns are the most cost effective way to build. A rectangle is the most cost effective way to build. Changing those two things gives you a different building, but not necessarily one that will last longer. Just like my client with the $300 door knob, what do you have to have to be happy with it?

Yep.

And these things concern me with building "kit" prices. Are they selling your a walk in door that will outlast you and your kids? Or are they selling you a door that you will hate everytime you go thru it? Will the windows seal and not sweat/frost over? Or will you know the outside temperature based on walking near the window? Will you be amazed at how smoothly the overhead doors operate? Or will you step out of the way each time you raise/lower them? These things need clarity before the first check is signed.

Some things are worth the extra money. Some are not. For example, I don't like door knobs on my shop walk in doors. I often go thru them with my arms full. I'll take a handle, regardless of cost.

When I turn on the lights I want to walk anywhere in the shop and not need additional lighting. I used T8 4ft six bulb fixtures with fluorescent bulbs. Great lighting. Horrible interference with my door openers. Had to convert them to LED. Wish I'd known that before I started.....

I expect flat, smooth, strong concrete. Cost me $10 p/square foot. Worth every penny.

I expect efficient heat. Cost me a LOT of money in insulation, quality insulated windows/doors, tightly built building.

These things are why my building cost three and half times my friend's building. Went to a birthday party in his shop this Winter. Stood within a couple feet of his wood stove all evening with my coat and hat on. Could feel the imperfections in his concrete just walking across it. Windows totally frosted over.

As Eddie is suggesting, educated shopping and choices will get where you want to be. But first you have to be clear about your expectations. My friend is happy with his building and I am happy for him.

 

[newbury]

12' x 6' x 4' high = 72 sq.ft...... for $13,000 ?

$180/sq.ft.?

Mighty expensive small shed!

Think mobile!

20x6x4!

I am starting to lean toward steel. I will probably build it myself. Doesn't look that hard to me. I'm gonna have to buy an extra camera to capture more than one angle . I think I will try to video it from beginning to end and edit together something that answers other people's questions.

Set up a bunch of Wyze cams and record it.

I think you hit it on the nose, Buckeye. We are in a building boom here. The prices for townhouses are ridiculous. My place is rural, on a dirt road but less that 20 miles from the city and there is a lot of money moving in around here. Or at least a lot of people with good enough credit to buy overpriced homes. There is a high priced ç*ºillage/town 7 miles from me where you can spend half a million on a house thatç—´ so close to your neighbor, that you can toss them a beer when you are both on your porch. And there are no less than 1000 houses being built right now in my area of the county. That is not a number i pulled out of the air. It comes from the county government. It probably doesnt compare to some places but its
Crazy just the same. As for the first estimate,

Free Union is about 45 miles from Culpeper and a little over 110 from Washington, DC. Urbanization is coming.
You are on the outskirts of the growing megalopolis.

Whatever you build, if done well, will be worth a fortune in a decade.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Here, outbuildings don't really add much to the value of a property. Certainly not if you go high end and then only add a fraction of what they cost.

 

[ovrszd]

Here, if on an acreage, 40 acres or less, they add a lot. In most cases more than construction cost.