Barndominium/Shop or "real" House?

[ericm979]

My last shop and my current shop have roll up doors. I think they are OK, but I wont buy roll up doors again. I think that garage style doors with insulation are much, much better. The big drawback to garage style doors is the amount of ceiling you need to open them, and for the opener. If you have that space, it's a no brainer.

They make jackshaft style openers that mount on the wall rather than hanging from the ceiling and getting in the way. Make sure the power outlet is on the wall instead of in the ceiling. You can get the door tracks closer to the ceiling than is typically done- less than a foot. It may require high mount tracks and different springs but your installer should be able to do it. Or there are kits and parts available on line for DIY.

And yea, the indoor water shutoff is a great idea.

 

[LouNY]

In New York I would not have any water valve in a space that is not going to have heat available 24 hours a day.
So living quarters OK, a shop space that has the potential to be not heated, nope.

 

[aircommuter]

I like my door at 14x14 going into my shop. It allows for angles and mirrors.

 

[ETD66SS]

I guess maybe I should step back a bit.

The 10x12 door is not the only bay door. I'll attach my latest plans here, easier to show than describe in words. But the 10x12 door is only for the 2 post lift. I have (3) 14x16 rollup doors, two of them providing a drive through setup.

As far as the water line install. The water company did their thing and installed a curb-stop and a meter pit about 700ft from where the water will enter my dwelling. The water superindendent said when I turn on the water he will give me a key to access the meter pit as I am allowed to turn the water on/off there as a homeowner. I got about 500 ft of the water line installed in a trench before the weather turned to crap. I will finish the rest next spring.

I plan to have the water line end up at a hydrant valve about 20-30 ft from the barndominium, and then run from that under the garage slab and up through at the stairwell location where I plan to have a shutoff valve for the water main, and all the hydronic heat equipment.

 

[aircommuter]

Are you using insulated panels for the walls? I really like mine. Both for temperature control and sound. I ran most of my electrical conduits under the slab. Makes a clean job. Is there an enclosure for a standby generator?

 

[ETD66SS]

Are you using insulated panels for the walls? I really like mine. Both for temperature control and sound. I ran most of my electrical conduits under the slab. Makes a clean job. Is there an enclosure for a standby generator?

For the living space it is regular steel panels on the outside, fiberglass insulation and then drywall on the inside. 3PLY 2X8 glulam posts are being used which makes the walls 7 inches think. Code here is R30 minimum for the walls, R49 for the roof.

This will be an economy (as much as I can make it) build so what I am asking the GC to do is only finish what is required for me to get a live-in permit by the town. I'll have to finish out the rest of the non-living space shop area over time as I have the funds to do so.

There is no enclosure for a generator at this time, though I do have a location planned out for that. I plan to run as much electrical under slab in conduit as I can, then in the shop, the rest will be over top of the inside steel panels in EMT conduit, nothing inside the walls so I have easy access etc. In the living space the plumbing and electrical will be normal residential to-code installation etc.

 

[aircommuter]

I understand the money saving part. I did mine with my wife’s help completely.
You can get those insulated panels up to 6”. R=8 per inch thickness. Several different finishes.

 

[ETD66SS]

I still don't have a GC for this project but I am starting on the base anyways:

The hard fill I am using has larger chunks of stuff in it than I would have liked, but my D6C is crushing up most of the large pieces, some of them I have to pick out with my excavator.

I thought 10 loads of hard fill would have been enough then go with crusher run lime stone the rest of the way, but I think I'm going to need at least another 5 loads of the hard fill so I am not buying so much $tone.

 

[aircommuter]

I don’t see a compactor. The standard for soils work is a 5, over build and tested to 90% RP every 12”. It takes some mixing and moisturizing.

 

[ETD66SS]

I have to rent a vibratory roller at some point as I want a solid base for my concrete slab. However, this structure will have perma-columns 48" from grade into virgin soil. The total layer of fill will be 6" in one corner and 26" in the opposing corner. This fill is not the bearing surface for the structure.