rbargeron
Elite Member
My compressor is up in the attic of the barn - unheated area - works fine. The air is so dry in the winter that condesation isn't an issue. I just have to remember to drain it once or twice each summer.
Barns and shop layouts
- Thread starter Pks
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Pks
Platinum Member
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- Apr 6, 2000
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- Saline, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota L3700SU, Cub Cadet 1430, Hustler Super-Z 66in, Vermeer 1250
Jim, what was it that was put in, a drain?
jimgerken
Veteran Member
yes, a floor drain for the water and melted slop from his car. The kit of stuff from Menards did not include a trap, so he added that by simply glueing shut the lower few slots of the outlet area. The outlet is formed to permit plumbing with PVC. He ran his outside to daylight about 10 feet outside the garage wall, and has plans to bury a 55 gallon drum full of rocks as a miny drainfield, next summer.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
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- Sep 27, 2005
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Most of the discussion on this thread has been centered around stick built barns/shops. I am contemplating a 30' x 40' workshop for piddling around with woodworking and some small welding/metal working projects. I can see some real advantages to metal buildings over wooden truss type shops (i.e. larger spans for unobstructed workspace.) I also suspect that plan-for-plan, a metal building would be cheaper to build. Any thoughts????
rc
rc
looch
Veteran Member
<font color=blue>Any thoughts????</font color=blue>
One small one: I don't believe a metal building will hold up as well in a fire.
Of course, if I had a fire in my garage, the structure itself would be the least of my worries.
One small one: I don't believe a metal building will hold up as well in a fire.
Of course, if I had a fire in my garage, the structure itself would be the least of my worries.
Bird
Rest in Peace
My own shop building is wood framed, aluminum skin, uninsulated (was here when I bought the place), but nearly everything I see being built new in this area is insulated, steel framed (and the way I would also go if I were building a new one).
Timd
Bronze Member
When you say larger spans, are you looking for clear span or cathedral ceilings? You can get clear span with a flat ceiling in a stick framed building by using roof trusses. You can also get an elevated ceiling by using scissors trusses.
For maximum enclosed space for the buck, the winners are probably metal frame kits like . Prices for kits like this are in the 7-8K range. A <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mortonbuildings.com/>Morton building will be at least 3 times that. A slab floor depending on where you are will add another 4-7K.
Metal building advantages: cheap, you can put one up yourself in a couple of weeks (with help), lots of space.
Metal building disadvantages: siding easily damaged, noisy, condensation, hard to insulate well, hard to heat.
I looked at both options and decided to stick build my own.
Timd
For maximum enclosed space for the buck, the winners are probably metal frame kits like . Prices for kits like this are in the 7-8K range. A <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mortonbuildings.com/>Morton building will be at least 3 times that. A slab floor depending on where you are will add another 4-7K.
Metal building advantages: cheap, you can put one up yourself in a couple of weeks (with help), lots of space.
Metal building disadvantages: siding easily damaged, noisy, condensation, hard to insulate well, hard to heat.
I looked at both options and decided to stick build my own.
Timd
hwp
Platinum Member
Have you thought about using pole-barn construction? I have a 30'x40' pole-barn garage. 6x6 posts every six feet. 2x4 rails every two feet vertically. Outside has plywood sheathing, plastic wrap and cedar T&G siding. Inside has vapour barrier and steel siding. 6" batt insulation. The attic also has a vapour barrier and 6" of insulation. The oil furnace for the garage is in the attic. Roof trusses are every six feet spanning the 30 foot dimension. The ceiling is only 10' 6" but that is because the guy that built it didn't think he needed more headroom than that - and he is a mechanic! I intend to build a 25 foot addition and will use cathedral trusses to give me enough headroom to use a twin post hoist and keep the same roof line.
My point is that pole-barn construction is a lot simpler and cheaper than anything else and is every bit a servicable.
My point is that pole-barn construction is a lot simpler and cheaper than anything else and is every bit a servicable.
Knight9
Veteran Member
Howard,
<font color=blue>My point is that pole-barn construction is a lot simpler and cheaper than anything else and is every bit a servicable. </font color=blue>
I just got a couple of quotes for a garage/workshop structure that I wanted to build. The pole construction was just as costly as the conventional framing option. I was not very happy about that as I presumed I would be able to do it via pole construction for quite a bit less $$$. I'm beginning to believe that there is simply not the expertise in my area in pole construction. Thus the contractors who do it can charge more.
I'm re-evaluating the whole thing right now. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif
Kevin
<font color=blue>My point is that pole-barn construction is a lot simpler and cheaper than anything else and is every bit a servicable. </font color=blue>
I just got a couple of quotes for a garage/workshop structure that I wanted to build. The pole construction was just as costly as the conventional framing option. I was not very happy about that as I presumed I would be able to do it via pole construction for quite a bit less $$$. I'm beginning to believe that there is simply not the expertise in my area in pole construction. Thus the contractors who do it can charge more.
I'm re-evaluating the whole thing right now. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif
Kevin
