Need advice installing a propane shop furnace

[2manyrocks]

If the combustion is not properly vented, you can get lethal carbon monoxide. Also, must have proper supply air. This is the reason for so many replies to this thread advising you to consult the installation manual. No one wants to give bad advice on this.

 

[sixdogs]

Excellent advice. I'm about to abandon the used furnace idea and return to sender. Stay tuned.

 

[sixdogs]

A guy I know that sells Reznor gave me a number to go on for full installation while another guy that sells Lennox gave me one as well. Lennox was $500 less than Reznor and I figured it would be the reverse. That's where I'm at so far.

 

[sixdogs]

I think this is the one. Reznor. Any commentary?

https://assets.reznorhvac.com/download/70bf0584-5ed1-11ed-ae02-0016e1e579b9

 

[sixdogs]

Not a lot of input here but does anyone know about size of heater for my shop? My shop is 42'x60' x 14" high. I've narrowed it down to either a 125,000 BTO Reznor propane or a 150,000 one.

Heating guy doesn't a long enough history of a situation like this but thinks 125,000 BTU would be enough. He also thinks 150,000 would be OK as well.

Can anyone offer an opinion on this?

 

[ponytug]

Not a lot of input here but does anyone know about size of heater for my shop? My shop is 42'x60' x 14" high. I've narrowed it down to either a 125,000 BTO Reznor propane or a 150,000 one.

Heating guy doesn't a long enough history of a situation like this but thinks 125,000 BTU would be enough. He also thinks 150,000 would be OK as well.

Can anyone offer an opinion on this?

I think that a small difference in air sealing might make a 50% difference in heating needs, so I would not want to offer up a number. Put a different way, if whatever you choose isn't enough, or runs too long, I would see about controlling air flow around doors and around insulation.

All the best,

Peter

 

[sixdogs]

I think that a small difference in air sealing might make a 50% difference in heating needs, so I would not want to offer up a number. Put a different way, if whatever you choose isn't enough, or runs too long, I would see about controlling air flow around doors and around insulation.

All the best,

Peter

It's a new insulation job by Morton and in a Morton building. It's tight except for what you would expect around two 18' sliding doors. They are OK sealed but they are still big sliding doors. There is a little normal leakage around the man door but the walls and ceiling are snug. Now?

 

[ponytug]

It's a new insulation job by Morton and in a Morton building. It's tight except for what you would expect around two 18' sliding doors. They are OK sealed but they are still big sliding doors. There is a little normal leakage around the man door but the walls and ceiling are snug. Now?

I'd ask Morton. Sorry.

All the best, Peter

 

[CH4Ohio]

It's a new insulation job by Morton and in a Morton building. It's tight except for what you would expect around two 18' sliding doors. They are OK sealed but they are still big sliding doors. There is a little normal leakage around the man door but the walls and ceiling are snug. Now?

The only experience I have with sliding doors is the typical wood-frame hanging on a roller-track barn-style door with no weather-stripping, etc. Do your doors have any kind of seal along the bottom? Are the sides sealed with rubber like you'd find on overhead garage doors? I'm trying to picture how much daylight you can see around those sliding doors when they're closed and latched.

 

[5030]

There are versions of these that are sealed combustion and direct vented. I really prefer that in a shop environment

I have a Modine overhead power draft propane fired unit. Hung it from the trusses with pre punched angle steel and direct vented it out through the side wall. It's sealed combustion so no flame (visible) and I have it wired to a remote wall T'stat. Propane is hard lined to the unit in black iron pipe.

Sealed combustion, positive vent. Understand, I heat the shop primarily with in floor PEX heat (propane fired again) and the forced air overhead unit is primarily for bitter cold windy days when the PEX heat cannot keep up with the hear load. I keep the foor heat at 68 and the overghead is set at 65. I much prefer the floor heat however. With me, it's imperative I keep the machine tools at a constant temperature plus floor heat is nice for your feet. I ave lots of combustable stuff in the shop, from lubricating oils to diesel fuel and even some gasoline and I've never had issue one. You just make sure your stuff is contained in containers that don't leak and produce flammable vapors. Been heating and cooling the shop like that for at least 15 years now.