Basic Snowplow float question

radman1 · Dec 16, 2007

Something just doesn't seem right. The blade should not angle by itself when pushing a load, regardless of how much snow your pushing. The geometry with the loader arms are also off. The blade needs to tip back enough to ride on the shoes, whether in float mode or if just skimming the surface. Teh front edge of the shoes are slightly tipped back relative to the back of the shoe. What you describe is the blade is tipped forward so the loader arms don't scrape on the road surface. If tipped forward, the shoes won't ride over the suface. Also if tipped forward, the blade can easily catch the surface or an obstacle and trip the bottom which only compounds you problem.
I fabricated a used Meyer snowplow design for a pickup on the front of my tractor. It is held up by a chain. It can float over the terrain. The FEL arms are left up slightly (nonfloat) but the chain is kept slack.
Take to the dealer if possible and see if they can help get is set properly.

PILOON · Dec 17, 2007

I ran into same problem and my analysis is that the push forces are against the loader arms pivot point which is up at about dash height.
What is needed is a straight line push eg front axel height.
If the pivot is above the axle you will tend to dig in until the weight of snow equals the front end weight and you jack.
Narurally before you actually jack you are getting lighter and hence no steering.
If the pivot is lower the blade will ride up un the snow.

As a result I designed a plow and frame for my CUT that allows me to push snow with plow angled with the throttle wide open in 3rd gear!

Here is link to the project:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/66045-snow-plow-my-mt180d-2.html#post1285466

Today we have recieved over a foot of that white stuff and again I could plow full tilt with positive steering and not trip the blade nor dig it in, and my drive is asphalt on the hilly part and gravel on the flats.
Also I have no shoes or skids under the blade, I do however have ladder chains on the rear wheels and mostly push the plow in 2 wheel drive (to 'save' my front differential).

I recall 'back when' where some guys mounted a plow onto two 3" 'I' beams that were butted back onto the rear axel housings of the old ford tractors.
The well made ones kinda looked like a gun stock end (curved 'hook') that merely hung off of the rear axel housing.
Naturally that frame was a kinda 'ladder' to keep things aligned properly.
Also with that arrangement you do not need to remouve the FEL assy, merely raise it to clear the plow rack assy and lift can be accomplished with a length of chain attached to the FEL bucket.

It is "straight line push" that is the answer no matter how you achieve it.

My arrangement allows me to bulldose snowpiles that are even 4ft high off ti the side out of the way for next snow falls.

Ford850 · Dec 17, 2007

ElBarranco,
The angle you have to set your blade doesn't sound right. Even on a skid steer, the quick attach plate should be vertical the same as your loader is. I'd have your dealer take a look to be sure.
The trip function on your blade sounds unique. Usually there is a trip pressure setting. Maybe your's can be adjusted to a stiffer setting.
The cylinder issue sounds like there is a relief setting that is too light. usually these settings are there to protect your loader arms or the blade so they give before twisting something. Obviously you are no where near damaging anything when your relief gives way.
I'd start with the dealer, and if you don't get good answers I'd call the manufacturer. I can't see how that plow would work on an agressive skid steer if it doesn't work well on a tractor loader. There are other brands out there to try if that doesn't work out. Hiniker and Curtis are two that are available in my area.

ElBarranco · Dec 17, 2007

I just spoke with the dealer. He's going to bring an 8' Hiniker as soon as he can get a truck. I'm expecting that one will work much better for me. Dealer didn't give me any pushback, didn't even sound surprised. I suppose they will take these issues up with Virnig. Back to the drawing board (CAD shop) perhaps?

Thanks everyone for educating me. Gave me the confidence to suggest something just wasn't right, and ask them to give me a different unit. I think I'll be happy with the Hiniker.

thanks,
-robert

Ford850 · Dec 17, 2007

I still like the pipe idea for the cutting edge. How would you cut a slot in a pipe like that? I'm wondering if I could make up a replacement cutting edge out of soft steel, and weld a length of pipe along the bottom edge without having to cut a slot in it. I would replace the factory edge, but could switch back if needed. Or maybe just weld tabs along a pipe that would lay in front of the cutting edge and line up with the cutting edge bolts. 3 or 4 tabs would probably hold it.

ElBarranco · Dec 18, 2007

My plow issue has been resolved. The dealer loaded a Hiniker 8' right onto his truck and rushed it over to me. That is a great fit for my L48. Behaves just the way I expect in a plow. I still have a learning curve, but I'm not getting thrown around and chewing up my driveway the way I was with the Virnig. Really moves snow, too.

Looks like we've got another storm on the way, so I'll be giving the thing a real test in a few days.

thanks again for all the guidance,
-robert