Battery Tester Analyzer

   / Battery Tester Analyzer #11  
Yes, but the out of sight out of mind factor precludes me even stopping at the auto parts store to check them. Plus I would have to road my tractors there :cool:

You can't remove a battery from a tractor, and take it in for load testing?
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer #12  
So, here is what I have recently learned from gear heads on line and working on Y-Lee and son's G37x.

A carbon pile tester has its place and would recommend one of a set of diagnostic tools.
This should be the go to at first.
Now if this includes a vehicle with crank or cam sensors there is another tool. One that measures milli-volt (AC ripple) output of alternator.
Not that it affects the battery but will play with sensors and throw codes.
So we learned the hard way is that the alternator was the root cause but we did not know this at the time and replaced three sensors.

On edit- the high milli-volt ripple would cause the cam position sensors to throw a code. Seems they have a narrow range of tolerance for AC ripple.
So any meter that can measure this and fits your budget should work.

So between these two items you should be covered for tractor and vehicles.
Because vehicles are only getting more touchy about the power supply based on all the sensors now used.
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer #14  
Testers like the Foxwell assess the batteries condition and capacity by measuring the impedance of the battery at varying frequencies. They put no load on the battery and give a direct readout of the CCA capacity of the battery. They take little knowledge or skill to evaluate the result.
I have one (not a Foxwell) and would recommend it. I also have a Sun VAT carbon pile tester, both are good tools, but I use the impedance tester for testing batteries, the Sun for testing systems and troubleshooting.
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer #15  
Bought an Ancel BA101 a couple of months back..... haven't used it enough to add much to the composite Reviews on Amazon. Gave me a sanity check on one vehicle's battery, that I hadn't got near a pro tester before now. Gives me some visibility (uncalibrated, admittedly, but that's just my inner geek talking....) into parameters I couldn't see before.

Auto parts stores that do parking lot testing with pro kit should be able to evaluate starter and alternator performance too, and some units give you a final printout. Nice, esp. for free.

A carbon-pile tester is usually only slightly less reliable than an anvil, and if I could have caught one on-sale last Winter at Canada's version of HFreight, I probably would have bought that as well or instead of for now.....

An ex-stock-car racer neighbour used to buy vehicles new, then @ 5 years, would yank the battery regardless and replace. Said he found alternators lasted longer this way too...... I don't think of myself as having the money he does, but I do see the wisdom of what he was doing....... Amortizing a battery over 5 years, against the value of a modern vehicle..... not a bad play, esp. with what a better-half drives.....

Not trying to drift..... but stay away from Interstate replacement batteries :2cents:

Rgds, D.
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer #16  
TopDon bt100 is a good option.
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer #17  
Remove the battery from my tractor or pickup and drive 50 miles one way, or... buy a tool to do it myself.
I've had batteries fail in 3 of my company trucks over the last 16 years. Twice I'd been to the dealer who said there was nothing wrong with them. (ne Ford, one Chevy.) The third time was in a hardware store parking lot... the check engine light had been on for a few days but that seems to be normal for GM products so I was waiting until my next oil change to get it looked at.

I usually get a new company truck every 3 years, so they all were within the warranty period.
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer #18  
I have learned that if you start to have starting issues and the battery is getting old, just do yourself a favour and replace the battery first. The troubles and expense that can be caused by a weak battery, isn't worth trying to extend the use of your battery.

I think a load tester will tell you the most critical thing you need to know about a battery. I have an analog (Goodall) one and a Digital one from Princess Auto. I have blown up and repaired the Digital one, from connecting it backwards. The analog one is forgiving.
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Okay, a dead Optima (Yellow Top) battery in one of the Kubotas today. Tractor would not start, took the battery out and charged it up on a conventional charger. Charged for about 1/2 hour and charger indicated the battery was fully charged. Measured 12.27 Volts so I put it back in, but no luck starting. With my multimeter hooked up when I turned the key the voltage on the whole keyswitch dropped to 0.9 V when attempting to start. Pulled the starter and jumped it off another battery, starter good. Swapped out battery and the tractor started. The battery seems to have enough Voltage but can not put out any current.

The Optima is about 5 years old and now measures 12.25 Volts with no load. I know there are special AGM chargers which I do not have but does anyone think this battery is recoverable? I will be headed to the auto parts store tomorrow to have them check it out, but curious what anyone thinks. I would like to salvage it, 830 CCA yellow tops are not cheap. I have 5 Optimas so maybe an AGM charger is also something I need to get if there is a real advantage.
 
   / Battery Tester Analyzer #20  
 
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