Batwing mower

[Bentrim]

Don't know if you have any Woods dealers close.

Batwing® Cutters – Woods Equipment

woodsequipment.com

If I had to chose a rotary mower I would look to the companies that have been around for a while and have produced good mowers. Woods, Bush Hog, Rhino, etc.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

The downside of my batwing mower is the turning radius of the tractor. A spinning PTO with universal joints can't be turned in less than a 100' radius without blowing up the universal joints on the driveshaft or tractor PTO bearings.

It don't have a double u joint like a hay baler has?

 

[kenhar]

Bushwacker is what the hi-way department uses here. Those guys mow everything and are probably not the most competent tractor operators. I've had one over 15 years, no problems so far.

 

[Mad Mac]

On the other hand...

My dad once had nearly a thousand acres of pasture and an old 20-foot Caldwell batwing.

He sent me to a two and a half day seminar on pasture management put on by Texas A&M. They insisted in the strongest terms to not mow. Use herbicides to control weeds.

Then he sent me to a pesticide applicator school for a license. A 300 gallon tank trailer and a single 10 gallon to the acre field nozzle does a good job on weeds.

I sold the Caldwell and bought a 3-point hitch brush shredder for the big stuff. But you've got that covered.

 

[workinonit]

It don't have a double u joint like a hay baler has?

I was about to ask the same question. My Frontier 2120 does and it can be turned as sharp as the rear tires allow.

 

[MMC]

I have a three point 8' bushhog that covers my tracks(I plan to keep it) but I'm ready to upgrade to a batwing. I think I want a 15'. My finances decided it will be used, lol. I have 20 acres at home, 300 next county over(can't clip all of it) and hope to pick up 75-100 in the next year or two. Are there any certain brands to run from or to? Is there a big blade tip speed difference between brands?

My opinion is you have received some good advice. If you want less worry, buy new (I have done both used and new). Many farmers do not let a good piece of equipment go unless they sense a problem coming up. Most name brands are good (believe Bushhog, Rhino, Schulte, Alamo, are owned by the same corp.). Unless it's an ancient bush hog, turning radius is handled by a large and expensive CV joint at the tractor PTO output shaft. Point, is you can turn very sharply (although you might watch out for your rear tire). As to recent brands, I have operated a used Bushhog 2615 and now a 2815 purchased new. Both are sound machines (a couple of small issues, but easily remedied). My neighbors have Land Prides and also like them. You will find different grades (weights, gearboxes, etc. in most lines - make sure you compare apples to apples...). I believe Shulte is used by local contractors and have a reputation for being tough (and expensive).

I suspect John Deere and Woods are good machines as well. Your tractor is adequate for most 15 foot batwings assuming not doing crazy stuff. I would look for a local dealer for support and even set-up (although I got a better price from a Bushhog dealer a couple of counties away).

I do know a contractor here in KY used Bushhog brands like I have and was complimentary of their ruggedness. I now run chains all around for (relative) safety and also chain rings underneath to protect the blades in unforgiving territory. That puts the unit close to 3 tons - you will know it's back there on steep hills. And grease the heck out of that CV joint and any other yokes every 8 hours...

Good luck

 

[jaxs]

On the other hand...

My dad once had nearly a thousand acres of pasture and an old 20-foot Caldwell batwing.

He sent me to a two and a half day seminar on pasture management put on by Texas A&M. They insisted in the strongest terms to not mow. Use herbicides to control weeds.

Then he sent me to a pesticide applicator school for a license. A 300 gallon tank trailer and a single 10 gallon to the acre field nozzle does a good job on weeds.

I sold the Caldwell and bought a 3-point hitch brush shredder for the big stuff. But you've got that covered.

Smart dad for using herbicide ,smart you for selling the Caldwell. Caldwell built a good mower then dried up leaving no source for parts.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I was about to ask the same question. My Frontier 2120 does and it can be turned as sharp as the rear tires allow.

I will tell you one thing right now, from experience. Those double joints are highly expensive, so keep it greased. It has zerks on the center parts too, don't miss, grease it all. I have successfully re done them, and it takes five hands to do it. My hands, dad's hands, and a pair of vise grips, but I wish they was another hand. In fact, if you leave it outside, I'd put a cut out bucket or some rubber tarp over that u joint on tractor end. Call and price a new one, then you'll know. We had bought a baler that the joint had been neglected. Of course, I got a lot of other fixes of other ones after word got out that I fixed ours.

 

[workinonit]

I know they are expensive. I have several of them. I do keep the greased and all of my equipment is under my equipment shed. They don't get rained on.

 

[MMC]

I will tell you one thing right now, from experience. Those double joints are highly expensive, so keep it greased. It has zerks on the center parts too, don't miss, grease it all. I have successfully re done them, and it takes five hands to do it. My hands, dad's hands, and a pair of vise grips, but I wish they was another hand. In fact, if you leave it outside, I'd put a cut out bucket or some rubber tarp over that u joint on tractor end. Call and price a new one, then you'll know. We had bought a baler that the joint had been neglected. Of course, I got a lot of other fixes of other ones after word got out that I fixed ours.

I absolutely keep the end (large CV joint) of the main shaft under cover even though under a shed roof in winter. That main zerc fitting calls for about 30 shots of grease every 8 hours, and yes, it sometimes throws grease on the rear of the tractor. And so what...it's a tractor and will never rust back there LOL. I would offer I would not go for a light batwing, nor the heaviest offered by a brand for most farms. You will always hit something that jars your eyeteeth and challenges your ego. If heavy enough, you plow on and don't do it again. If too light, you have a major weld, heat, gearbox repair, etc. And the Bushhog 2815 has a heavier cousin, but most of us simply don't need that cost and weight back there. I have challenged the 2615 and 2815 with rough stuff (very) and feel that "grade" is fine for almost any farmer. For example, the 2815 is rated by Bushhog to cut 4" scrub (the 2615 was 3" - and I think was tougher). Do I do that often? Truthfully, I have recovered land cutting 3" stuff with the 2615 and never had a gearbox failure or major repair...but don't recommend it. And the other name brands should be quite similar. In my opinion, naturally.