Box Scraper Beginners guide to using a box blade

[edkemper]

Thanks for the heads up and the example. I see what you are talking about. I'll address adding some steel soon.

 

[8N Ren]

Hey Mods!

I might be wrong but this should be stickied or at the very least post #8 turned into a tutorial.

Thanks for the tips 3RRL you have helped a lot of people.

 

[steve a]

Just found this site and read all pages of this topic. I just moved from the city to this 25 acres in the sticks; I am new to tractors and just bought my first one, a Kubota L3400, which I got mainly for brush/fire controll. I am learning to use the brush-hog and front loader, but have found it difficult to do any decent looking grading/smoothing with the loader bucket. I know that a Gannon would work better for that so I came to this thread to get educated, before I buy the wrong thing. After reading up here, I have a better idea what size I need...looks like a 5 to 6 footer; leaning toward the 5 since my property and roads are very hard and rocky with the sub surface rocks running from fist-size to car or even house-size. The larger ones kind of determine the grade, so I am stuck with surfaces that undulate left/right as well as up/down. Maybe I could build up the bad areas with fill dirt, but that's going to take a LOT of dirt. I am old and my remaining years are no doubt short, so should probably stick to filling in the water erosion channels so that a 2WD vehicle can manage.
My tractor doesn't have a hydraulic top link; just a manual turnbuckle. It doesn't have hydraulics for operating Gannon scarrifier/rippers either; is it worth adding the hydraulics, or is it even feasible?

 

[8N Ren]

Steve, measure your rear tires outside to outside and go from there, ideally you would want to cover your tracks.

 

[jeff9366]

I am old and my remaining years are no doubt short, so should probably stick to filling in the water erosion channels so that a 2WD vehicle can manage. My tractor doesn't have a hydraulic top link; just a manual turnbuckle. It doesn't have hydraulics for operating Gannon scarrifier/rippers either; is it worth adding the hydraulics, or is it even feasible?

It is no big deal to add rear remotes:

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com



Consider a Rollover Box Blade (ROBB) in lieu of a standard Box Blade.

Brian, who is FIT RITE HYDRAULICS, has several ROBBs.

ROBBs were designed before rear remote hydraulics came on the tractor scene.

At that time, the Gannon "Earthcavator" was the premier ROBB used in construction.

ROBBs are simpler to use than a standard Box Blade and require less adjustment.

ROBBs are heavier than the equivalent width standard Box Blades, therefore, unfortunately, cost more.

Personally, I seek/am attracted to simple solutions. In the case of a ROBB, you pay more for the simpler solution.


Dirt Dog Manufacturing

LANDSCAPE BOX-ROLLOVER 3 POSITION | A&B Eagleline Farm Equipment

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If the ground is REALLY dry, adobe, no Box Blade will cut. The ground has to contain at least a little moisture.

 

[RDrancher]

Just found this site and read all pages of this topic. I just moved from the city to this 25 acres in the sticks; I am new to tractors and just bought my first one, a Kubota L3400, which I got mainly for brush/fire controll. I am learning to use the brush-hog and front loader, but have found it difficult to do any decent looking grading/smoothing with the loader bucket. I know that a Gannon would work better for that so I came to this thread to get educated, before I buy the wrong thing. After reading up here, I have a better idea what size I need...looks like a 5 to 6 footer; leaning toward the 5 since my property and roads are very hard and rocky with the sub surface rocks running from fist-size to car or even house-size. The larger ones kind of determine the grade, so I am stuck with surfaces that undulate left/right as well as up/down. Maybe I could build up the bad areas with fill dirt, but that's going to take a LOT of dirt. I am old and my remaining years are no doubt short, so should probably stick to filling in the water erosion channels so that a 2WD vehicle can manage.
My tractor doesn't have a hydraulic top link; just a manual turnbuckle. It doesn't have hydraulics for operating Gannon scarrifier/rippers either; is it worth adding the hydraulics, or is it even feasible?

Welcome Steve!

Jeff has some great info in his post. I'll add this... SoCal is home to an abundance of old skip loaders and a nice, heavy box blade shouldn't be hard to find. Gannon will be the brand you'll find most often. The majority of skip loaders are set up for hydraulic scarifiers, but there will be a few manual scarifiers too. Most of the older Ford/New Holland, John Deere, Massey and International skip loaders will have a 6' box blade hanging off the back, and that would be a good size for your tractor. Some will be equipped with a 66" model. Just make sure that it covers the width of your tires. Don't be afraid of an older model as parts are readily available from any Woods dealer (They own Gannon now.) Some that you'll see may be bowed a bit if they have a pintle or ball hitch mounted on them for dragging around asphalt equipment. If it's not bowed too bad it'll work just fine. Keep in mind that even the older 70's 2WD skip loaders are around 10,000 lbs. A compact utility tractor doesn't have enough ground power to hurt a construction grade Gannon.

It was pretty hard to find a used Gannon here in Texas...especially a six footer. Where you're at I'd check out all of the older asphalt contractors and construction sale yards. I don't think you'll have a hard time finding one. Here's mine with manual scarifiers.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Steve, I'm just down the hill in Lakeside. Not really a problem to add all the stuff that would make your life easier, just takes money. A new roll over box blade is going to cost some money. There is usually 1 or 2 for sale on Craigslist down in the Imperial valley. Typically $600-$800 and that would be about half of what a new one costs. A 65" unit fits your tractor perfect and would be what I would be looking for. I actually know a guy just into Riverside county that needs to get the same size, maybe if you guys went together it would save everyone some money if you were to go new. :confused3: I know that he for sure wants new.

Anyway, contact me if you want to see what some of this hydraulic stuff would cost you.

Keep asking questions.

 

[jenkinsph]

steve,
You have received some good advice so far and Brian can help you with the hydraulic needs and changes. I would also pay attention to RDrancher who lived and worked in the area as he can offer good suggestions to find the used box blades and like me he makes his living in the dirt. Lots of good advice from the others too.

I would add that a box blade and a land plane grader scraper are two tools that I use all the time in my grading work. If you can budget to have both I think you will be in good shape to do your work. A lpgs is simply easy to operate with a shorter learning curve and will help with smoothing out your driveways and open areas.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

. . .
It was pretty hard to find a used Gannon here in Texas...especially a six footer. Where you're at I'd check out all of the older asphalt contractors and construction sale yards. I don't think you'll have a hard time finding one. Here's mine with manual scarifiers.
View attachment 387693

I just happened across the one I bought. It isn't nearly as pretty as yours. But it does have the hydraulic scarifiers, and the darned old thing is as tough as an anvil.

Steve, if you find an old Gannon box blade, or a ROBB from Gannon, Woods, Bush Hog or any dependable brand, don't worry about the cosmetic condition. These things are meant to work hard, and most of them were used that way. Check it to make sure nothing is broken, bent or sprung, but don't worry about it not being pretty.

And be prepared to act quickly if it's a decent price. Around here there are used equipment dealers that look for bargains and know what's a good price. I've seen several implements on Craigslist that were underpriced. Then, soon thereafter, some used equipment dealer is advertising it at a much higher price.

I missed out on a good 6' ROBB (for $350 I think) because I didn't act quickly enough.

 

[Fallon]

Just found this site and read all pages of this topic. I just moved from the city to this 25 acres in the sticks; I am new to tractors and just bought my first one, a Kubota L3400, which I got mainly for brush/fire controll. I am learning to use the brush-hog and front loader, but have found it difficult to do any decent looking grading/smoothing with the loader bucket. I know that a Gannon would work better for that so I came to this thread to get educated, before I buy the wrong thing. After reading up here, I have a better idea what size I need...looks like a 5 to 6 footer; leaning toward the 5 since my property and roads are very hard and rocky with the sub surface rocks running from fist-size to car or even house-size. The larger ones kind of determine the grade, so I am stuck with surfaces that undulate left/right as well as up/down. Maybe I could build up the bad areas with fill dirt, but that's going to take a LOT of dirt. I am old and my remaining years are no doubt short, so should probably stick to filling in the water erosion channels so that a 2WD vehicle can manage.
My tractor doesn't have a hydraulic top link; just a manual turnbuckle. It doesn't have hydraulics for operating Gannon scarrifier/rippers either; is it worth adding the hydraulics, or is it even feasible?

My l3200 (basically the same as yours) pulls my 72" king kutter box well enough. A 65" heavier box might be better, but the KK was cheap & works well. Now that my R4s are loaded I'm mostly running into power limits than traction limits.

I love my TnT setup, but you can definitely get by without it until you save up.